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The coolant hose blew because it was old and failed, not due to high rpms. Now that it has been replaced it won't fail again until it's old and worn out. As for the fill rate, it's all about how much you are dumping in at once. Tossing in 1 gallon every minute is going to create problems, you have to just pour it in very slowly, listen to the system you will hear the bubbles releasing, watch the heater hose bleed valve, when you see it trickle past the opening then slow down and add that part really slowly until it begins to leak out of the bleed valve.
Ahhh yeah, that's actually a known failure point on these style of radiators unfortunately (particularly the ones on the G35 which are HIGHLY prone to failure). Any of the kind that uses a clamped seam like that will fail eventually. They're good for 100k+ miles and relatively inexpensive though which is good for most applications.
G35 Coupe. Plenum spacer, k&n filter, z tube. Muffler delete.
Yeah I got another one via warranty.
My neighbor says that there's no air in the system as my car is not overheating at all, even from a drive. I'm just not sure why my bottom hose isn't getting hot. Maybe I'm just uneducated in that department
It does take quite a bit of driving before the thermostat opens. If you are driving aggressively it's much quicker because the VQ is a hot running motor when it's under load but at idle and light load it's a very thermally efficient. This is also the cold part of the year (idk where you live but it was 5 degrees for me yesterday) and on an aluminum block aluminum head motor like this you could probably make your entire commute without opening the thermostat if it's near freezing temperatures.
Once you get out and hot rod the thing around though it generates SIGNIFICANT heat and you should definitely have a hot lower hose.
Does your heater work properly? If yes and you are NOT overheating then it's working properly.
G35 Coupe. Plenum spacer, k&n filter, z tube. Muffler delete.
After getting back from my drive just now, my temp gauge did rise a little. It's 60 degrees here in Florida. I touched the hose to check for heat and it did feel a little warm but just a little.
My tensioner fell off as I was bringing the rpms to 3k to see if the heater would blow hot (it did, but stopped when I released). Now I have to see what all fell off at the bottom.
My neighbor said it's possibly the reason why things weren't
flowing well since it was loose. But I'm pretty sure the water pump is chain driven which would be the only thing effecting the cooling system right?
G35 Coupe. Plenum spacer, k&n filter, z tube. Muffler delete.
so after about a week or so, my issue is finally solved. this is my last write up for people in the future who come across this problem on their G or Z.
the first thing to do is look for leaks. this could isolate the problem area. in my case the radiator had popped/cracked around the cap area. for obvious reasons this led me to getting a new radiator but that may not be the issue you have.
I suggest the second thing that you do is actually two things, 1. test thermostat to see if it opens up when hot (get a replacement if needed). Then fill system with coolant using Lisle spill free funnel (defiantly worth the buy).
I changed out my water pump as well but I wont suggest this right away unless heating issues persist. The OEM pump I took out also seemed fine to me, but hey our cars original engines are at least 12 years old.
instructions will not be provided unless requested as I feel like I have dragged this thread on long enough. good luck!
Also a heads up, the OEM bleeder valves are 12+ years old and have become very fragile due to constant water and or coolant mixes. With too much force or pressure, they WILL break.
Be careful and ultimately seek a brand new oem replacement, or an alternative to the oem. z1 motors has a decent looking metal version that's about 25$ without shipping. I will probably go for that one in the near future. though for now, I picked up a simple T hose connector labeled for coolant flushing at Bennett auto supply. it doest seem as sleek and everything but for now ill put my trust in it. it is also the same piece thats in the Prestone / Peak flush and fill kit.
Last edited by Kyronsk8; Mar 12, 2019 at 01:48 PM.
Sorry, was reading through this post and saw double-gasket and suddenly got PTSD. Last time I had that on my wife's MKZ i cleaned up about 5 quarts of oil off the shop floor.
