Welp i tore my axle boot installing my springs. That entire job was a clustercluck lol. I'm not to keen with suspension installs and this just proved it.

Anyways I'm looking into how I can install a new axle instead of installing a new boot. Car has 150k on it so I'm sure it's time to replace anyways

 

Never underestimate the power of those replacement boots. Here's the protip though, you MUST use a flexible weather resistant adhesive on the seam! Check out something like Sikaflex 1A polyurethane, or MasterSeal NP1 which is made of neoprene. Both are 100% weather resistant and typically used for sealing rooftops on commercial buildings so they have a 30 year life.

Make sure any moisture is dried up out of the joint before installing and use the ENTIRE package of that green grease they pack with the replacement boots, just smear it all over on the joint. Let the Sikaflex or NP1 cure for 24 hours before driving and you're good to go, I've never had them fail with this method.

 

I'm thinking of just changing the entire axle just to be it's new lol. Any diy for replacing one on a awd?

 

Not that I'm aware but the axles are the same procedure as the V35 platform, bolted flange in the rear, slip shaft with an internal retaining snap ring on the front. Rear usually involves nothing more than unbolting the flange, removing the nut and pulling it out from the middle of the vehicle. Front requires detaching everything from the steering knuckle so you can swing it forward enough to disengage the splines on the axle, then you can just wedge a prybar between the transfer case and the inboard housing of the axle and give it a couple taps with a small sledge to disengage that internal snap ring.

However just a heads up, if you don't have access to an impact wrench (1/2" drive big one for the center axle nut) and a torque wrench that will do 130 ft/lbs (90 for the front) then I wouldn't bother, you're just going to get frustrated busting that nut off and possibly damage it... then you're replacing the axle AND the steering knuckle...

imo though I wouldn't change the entire axle unless it was clicking, Nissan uses some REALLY hefty needle bearings in the tripod cv axles for this platform and they are not something that's a common wear item. I've seen X axles literally last the life of the car and never click, rear axle are incredibly rare to ever need changing. Usually the people with axle problems have a torn boot that they don't fix and it eventually runs dry, gets corroded and goes to ****.

You might be able to find a youtube video, if you look it up for the V35 platform it'll give you a really good idea what it's going to entail, the pieces are all the same shape.

 

Can i repair the boot without removing it? That'll help alot lol

 

A tip though for keeping the rotor from spinning when you are breaking the center nut loose, or the rear flanges at the diff. Stick a screwdriver down into the vanes in the rotor and turn it so the handle of the screwdriver is wedged up against the brake caliper, easy way to do it without having a second person to stand on the brake pedal. I usually am using an impact wrench for those big nuts though so it goes quickly, never tried the screwdriver trick with a prybar.

 

Yeah you cut off the old boot, the replacement boot is split down one side (don't go with the 2 piece ones) and it has a ton of these little metal "teeth" that you pinch down with a pair of pliars that clamps it shut, or it will have a bunch of little bolts that holds it together, OR it will just have a mating flange of sorts that the boot presses together out., that's the seam I was talking about using the NP1 or Sikaflex, basically adding some "glue" along that seam.

Here's some random pic of the kind that uses a bunch of little bolts. Then they give you generic clamps for the ends, you might need to buy a special crimper for it but some just use a pair of pliars. Check out your options and see which way you want to proceed.

 

If you do go with a 2 piece one that clamshells back together I would use the NP1 or Sikaflex (or whatever they give you for glue), then let it cure for 24 hours, and go over the top of the seam AGAIN with more sealant just to make sure it's really glued good. I've seen people take really stretchy electrical tape like 3M Super 33+ and give it a single layer wrap on top of the glue just to add some extra protection but that was mostly just for off-road UTV's and such where you were expecting to get a lot of abrasions.

 

Thanks! I'll give this a try tomorrow!

 

Ok I'm seeing tons of options and sizes, is there a particular size I should get?

 

You;re going to have to do your best to measure the existing one and try to get one about that size.

 

Ok great thanks

 

Sooooo went to seal and saw this

So yea Imma go head and assume sealing is no longer and option, it's super tight down here space wise and I'm sure I'm going to have to remove this to do it correctly so it's best to just grab and axle. Sigh

 

Question for you guys!

Which axle should I be purchasing?

One without a axle stub? Or one with it?

Without axle stub is cheaper and looks easier to install as well. Any tips as to how to remove the 6 small bolts I saw in that small crawl space that's under my car? Lol. Thanks in advance

 

Didn't you swap a whole motor into your previous car? I can't believe this is 1/100th as difficult as that. There is a good first gen DIY somewhere I think from Mustang that was for the wheel bearing but covers everything you have to do get the knuckle loose enough to get the axle out. Because I've had my front end apart recently, it's really quick to get the axle out. For the first gen it's only:
remove:
tire
undertray
brake caliper and hose brakcets, speed sensor
brake rotor
axle nut (i break this loose with a long pipe on a 1/2in breaker)
tie rod from knuckle (if you just smack the crap out of the knuckle you can get the ball joint to pop out without a tie-rod remover)
upper control arm from knuckle
unbolt (driver's) or pry (passenger) axle out

i'd recommend you replace the whole axle or at least pull it off and use a regular boot. I had to use a box end wrench to loosen/tighten the 6 bolts because i can't get a socket onto them given the shape of the axle. you can get a little grip with a u-joint but it's a tough angle. i recommend you use thread locker when you put those back. i just had a replacement axle that i installed a year ago come loose.... good luck.