G35 Sedan V36 2007- 08 Discussion about the 2nd Generation G35 Sedan 2007 - 08

Car died while in motion

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Old Aug 18, 2020 | 07:20 AM
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Car died while in motion

Hey friends,

My G35x died while in motion. The car won’t start at all not even the dash lights ups. I’m thinking it’s a fuel pump but I’m not sure? Any ideas?
 
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Old Aug 18, 2020 | 07:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Arock020.
Hey friends,

My G35x died while in motion. The car won’t start at all not even the dash lights ups. I’m thinking it’s a fuel pump but I’m not sure? Any ideas?
Why would you immediately think you have a fuel pump problem with no dash lights?
Start troubleshooting at the battery, battery cables, and a possible blown fuse.
Once the vehicle cranks with the operation of the starter then test for fuel pressure.
Do you have sufficient fuel in your tank?
Once you confirm that you have fuel pressure then test for spark
Don't just start throwing parts and guessing.
Follow troubleshooting steps in the FSM
 
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Old Aug 18, 2020 | 07:55 AM
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Cause of the way it died. Thanks for the tip I will start that way. The car won’t do anything, not even light up the dash.
 
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Old Aug 19, 2020 | 04:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Arock020.
Cause of the way it died. Thanks for the tip I will start that way. The car won’t do anything, not even light up the dash.
SO, then it's most likely electrical. Check battery, fuses, and go from there.
 
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Old Aug 19, 2020 | 06:25 PM
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Was the battery light on?
Typically if the fuel pump fails, the engine will turn over (if the battery is healthy) but won't start.
If the alternator failed, then your car would be running solely off of the battery, which if you had the radio and A/C cranked, the battery wouldn't last very long.

Had the same thing happen to an elder family members Camry. Only difference was they drove it home home, parked it in the driveway, and the following day they went to start and absolutely nothing.
I swapped battery with my car, it started up but the battery symbol on the dashboard was flashing. Checked battery voltage, and it was at 11.9 volts and falling, indicating it was the alternator failed.
 
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Old Aug 19, 2020 | 08:23 PM
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Even if the alternator failed and the car ran the battery dead, it would still have enough juice to light up the dash and other interior lights...it just wont be able to start the engine.

Instant loss of electrical is either a blown fuse, relay, or a bad connection. Check fuses first. Then use a multimeter to follow the power to see where it stops.
 
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Old Aug 22, 2020 | 01:02 AM
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Originally Posted by andrewl_v35
Was the battery light on?
Typically if the fuel pump fails, the engine will turn over (if the battery is healthy) but won't start.
If the alternator failed, then your car would be running solely off of the battery, which if you had the radio and A/C cranked, the battery wouldn't last very long.

Had the same thing happen to an elder family members Camry. Only difference was they drove it home home, parked it in the driveway, and the following day they went to start and absolutely nothing.
I swapped battery with my car, it started up but the battery symbol on the dashboard was flashing. Checked battery voltage, and it was at 11.9 volts and falling, indicating it was the alternator failed.
So my 07 G35x is having some issues. It completely turned off on me while I was driving. I towed it home and it wouldn’t start for nothing, not even a light or locks. I changed the battery and she kicks over but really weak. When I tried to take off and it died, when I tried to reverse it died. It sounds like it’s being chocked or has no power to take off. Does anyone have any recommendations?

I checked all the fuses. Thinking it might be alternator or fuel pump.
 
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Old Aug 22, 2020 | 03:10 PM
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Use a digital multimeter, voltage when running should be around 14.5 vdc. Sounds like you have a loose or corroded wire somewhere, clean up the battery, the fusible link, the chassis ground, the starter primary.
 
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Old Aug 22, 2020 | 03:11 PM
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You can also check resistance on both the battery+ to starter primary and the battery- to chassis. Both should have the same resistance reading (ohms on the DMM) of whatever the meter reads when you hold both test leads together. Typically either 0 or 1 ohm on most DMM's.
 
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