So I started my car to leave work and then it start but electronics came on then I turned it off put the key in the key holder and tried it again and it turned over and I drove home, went to leave a couple hours after I arrived home and same thing happened no start no crank, but all electronics came on and this time that trick didn’t work. A month ago it was heavy rainfall from the hurricane,I had kind of the same problem and turns out it was bad grounds they were Corroded cleaned them and it started ever since no issue, until today. I checked the battery it’s 12.1V I’m not sure what it is now¿ the grounds are clean still too and the battery connection is strong on the - and +. Any help or similar issue solutions ¿

 

12.1V is way too low. once it puts a load on it, i bet it goes into low 11s or even 10s. get the battery checked out.

 

I let it sit overnight and went to start it, and it started drove to the store came out five minutes later to start it again to leave and same thing. No crank no start. So that’d be a battery thing…?

 

What does the car do when u try to crank it? Can u hear the starter click at all?
Do the lights dim?

 

no there’s no clicking from the started, when I press the button on to the on position you hear the fuel pump working and all lights come on the dash bright no flicking or dimming. When I put my foot on the peddle and press it to start just nothing no clicking?

 

you have to get it tested, but now that you said it started after you left it overnight, it could be something else (still get that battery checked). are you getting a red key light on the dash?

 

okay I will and yeah when I just open the door to get in as if I were to go start the car and the dash is all dark there is the red key light blinking… I’ve never notice before if that had always been a thing or just till now

 

4 things;
1, BCM got wet from your plugged up sunroof drains on passenger side.
2, KEY FOB battery is bad
3, Starter relay in fuse box under the hood on passenger side.
4, Starter itself.
I started my G on a worn out battery at 11.2 volts, as long as the battery has AMPS, it will crank the engine.
The red key will blink when Ignition is in OFF and door is opened and closed.
The red key will stay RED when ignition is ON: BCM lost comm with key fob and needs to be reprogrammed. Ignition should turn ON when key fob is placed inside key slot on left hand driver side under Trunk Open switch.

 

late as response js been a heck of two weeks, I had the issue with no crank no start for two day till Sunday and it started up every time no problem, then I got misfires and it turns out to be the magnet restart ( drivers side) just got it back from the shop yesterday literally drove it for 20 miles and it started to misfires the exact same way as before and now it’s the passenger side magnet retarder. The two in the front not the intake retarders so it’s getting that replaced rn. Lmk if anyone had had this problem before? It was all even cylinders that misfire

 

Before you drain your bank account, have that shop scan the ECM and post ALL the active and past codes on here. Also, visit this thread: Guide for Reprogramming Updates to your ECU and check if there is a ECM update for your ECM. If there is, then do not replace any parts until you update the ECM.
Also, read my thread: Long and rough warm or hot restarts it has info that might help you out; Cam sensors and ignition coil transistors.

 

hell buddy I will ask them and I wish u remember about here to ask any one before I already gave them the go ahead to get them done. Thanks folks although another question I have noticed within the last month or so my car doesn’t idle right sometime it’ll idle around 700-800 then drop to like 5-600 then go right back up to 700-800 any thought on why it’s doing this? I haven’t gotten it looked at or checked anything out myself…