Got limp mode yesterday after a long drive but this time the vdc and slip light came on and my dashboard started flickering. a couple months ago i already replaced battery have new negative cable due to corroded and movable ,and a new positive terminal end (not the entire fuse block) the car was acting like it wanted to cut off i cut it off and cut it back on and its starting slow (one time before it cut it off and the battery died) so maybe new battery and new terminal gave it some backbone to still crank is it my APS? Or camsensors or maf ? It feels like its a battery problem maybe getting the entire positive fuse block to see if so? Sorry for rambling just looking for any insights on what it could be given there are a lot of options here also no codes on my scanner

 

Engine sensors cause limp mode, so i'd focus on that. I got limp mode only once when my cheap Hitachi cam sensors failed.
ECM controls the charging system using the IPDM so check the 3 pin alternator plug. See if the alternator is wet from power steering oil..

 

sorry for late response but codes finally appeared on scanner as i suspected camshaft sensor bank 1 and crank shaft sensor i ordered all 5 from z1 (crazy expensive wtf) now this might seem dumb but i know each cam has specific bank and one is exaust and intake cam the question is with the new cams do i just switch them all out? Like how can i tell with the new cams which is which? Or does it not matter

 

Here, read my thread on this and make sure to get the right ones: Long and rough warm or hot restarts
All 4 camshaft sensors are the same in the VQ35HR engine.

 

what was the actual codes you got? entering limp mode is bad news. hopefully it's not something mechanical.

 

after installing cams car is dead and started very sluggish with battery starter (no dash lights at all low/sluggish idling and ends up cutting off after a few minutes when i put the car in “ON” position the only lights that come on is battery but it is very low barley illuminates my only guess is my alternator connecter? Given i had to splice on a different connector when i changed alternator 6 months ago ? but i have never had any issues with cranking or electrical for that entire time until now, only 2 of the 3 pin wires are crimped btw one just has twist and electrical tape over but also does it look like the positive cable wire harness thats connected to the alternator looks damaged here? I cant really tell from there the plastic is so brittle i will pull the harness up the weekend to get a better look but was wondering any suggestions here