I'm not sure how you could tell. I paid about $80 for a new one and its easy to install just remove the liner unplug the cable from actuator and remove 2 bolts...

 

Thanks man... ill start looking around for one... maybe a junk yard one can do if its cheaper...

If anyone know anything I can do to fix the actuator that would be great... rather fix this at a low or no cost than spending the $80 =x

I know im being cheap hahhaa... times or tough right now in this shitty economy!

 

It's still not working as of now. I have taken it all apart pulled back the rubber sleeve and did no visible signs of broken wiring in the harness. I've had to tie some paracord to the release cable in the trunk and the other end to a piece of cylindrical plastic(make shift handle) and run it to the center console so we can release the trunk from the front seats. I called two dealer parts department and one couldn't see the harness in the trunk lid connected to the trunk release actuator. The other dealer's parts department said they don't just sell that section and costs $700 to replace the whole harness. What a joke. If anyone knows if there's a separate part number for the harness please let me know. Otherwise I'm going to call some junk yards to find this. Infinity as a whole has been a PITA. Service department never fixes what you bring in under warranty, parts departments are clueless, service is terrible. I understand wear and tear but no support for these is ridiculous. Now the engine light has been on from an upstream o2 sensor and the passenger side window motor is about to crap out.

 

My trunk would not open from keyfob and inside the 2004 G coupe. I thought it was a fuse but unlikely. So checked out some forum threads and this was the best thread . It turned out to be the cut black wire in the trunk lid. If anyone has this problem make sure to check this 1st. Repaired the wire with extra to handle the trunk opening and closing. Everything works as before, thanks again for this awesome thread!

 

Someone mentioned flexible wire for repair. What gauge and type of wire is best to use so I only have to repair this once.? How do you expose wires running back into car, beyond rubber grommet? Wiring expert response appreciated.

 

This was exactly where I found my problem, all the wires where frayed and 3 broken. Now I have to find a way to feed them back through the rubber piece to solder them -_- thanks for the thread. I

 

Look at the harness that goes from the trunk to the deck lid. When you open and close the lid, look at how hard that covering bends and determine the tightest bend. If you cut into that covering, you will likely find broken wires. This is a common problem. I read this and tried it tonight on my own car. I found 9 broken wires! 5 completely apart! I made 3 1/2 inch jumper wires and soldered them all in. Wrapped them with electrical wire. Used three tie straps to hold the harness covering back together while clear silicone is setting up to hopefully seal and hold the covering together.

 

I just completed my second repair of this problem. 2004 G35 Coupe that started with this in 2009. With the use of the fob, or left lower side dash release there is heard the soft sound of the line release pulling, but the lid would not release. I preformed the repair that RiceBurner posted ( thanks Dude, you Da Man ). At that time my trunk lid light had already failed and my gas lid would not open ( had removed the solenoid to fix that problem).
As mentioned by Da Man ( RiceBurner) the heavier ( actually too small for the job) set of wires were obviously cracked. I was unable to find any other breaks other than the large ground and the large green one( which are actually too small and brittle for the job).
I repaired them with 16g wire that I use in my R/C Combat Warships ( yes they sink each other) and that lasted me until this winter when it failed again. Same as before, worked one day, not work the next day This time I pulled out the 10g wire, same flexible form of wire that we use on R/C care stick batteries. I am hoping that this one will work until the car or I die. The previous attempt did not fail at my solder points it was the wire further down into the car that failed. I suspect that the next failure will require removing the rear seat and pulling out a longer piece of wire to get something heavier and more flexible.
My recommendation would be to use something like a 10-12g multistranded wire like I did for the repair.

 

Hi, i am new at this forum!

This forum really helped me out! But I still need youre help.. how did you guys fixed the problem with youre trunk??

i have did some research, some people said that it's a desing fault from Infiniti, and others suggest that its the fuse?

So i would like to know, how you fixed the problem

Thanks for youre time, it would be really helpfull if you could make some pictures with instructions

 

Stefno,
In my case it was not a fuse issue, and checking the fuses is really easy to do. In my case it was the wire broken on the sleeve on the right hand side of the trunk and lid. Look at page #3 of this thread for a photo.
I would make sure you have a couple of hemostats available to hold onto the wire so they do not pull down into the trunk when you are looking at this.
You can unclip the collar sleeve without cutting it if you careful and patient in pulling it apparent. It should be fairly obvious which wires are broken.
I would recommend the gauge of wire I mentioned, make sure you leave a little play in the wire, and make sure you are not using solid wire.

 

Awesome info. Just fixed my trunk in 45 min after it quit working. Same broken black wire as pictured.

Working again

 

thankyou for youre fast reply!

i don't hear the trunk noise when i push the button inside the car or from the key fob,

i haven't checked the wires because i don't want to take of the rubber strap in the trunk...

if it is the fuse, which one is it that needs to be replaced? i checked in the car and under the hood but i don't see anywhere trunk or back so i don't know which one i need to replace, does anyone here know?

 

Reporting in... I have this issue, and all 5 of the wires going back are cut. Two are hanging by a thread. I am limited to a crimp tool right now and I don't think that will survive the tugging to put the rubber section back in. Might just leave off the rubber stopper. We will see. Urban out..

Edit: solder and heat shrink should be the only way to pair up electronics. Been fixed perfectly... We are back!

 

Bump for the guy who asked about it...

 

Had the same problem. Three of my wires were completely cut, even though they had been worked on in the past. (New line spliced in etc). Cut that out and soldered in some new lines and it works like a charm now with both key fob, dash button, and exterior trunk button.