I'm sure he'll figure out a way to re-invent the wheel to come up with comperable mods...

 

Couldn't have said it better myself.

I DARE you to spend all this time and money on this "intake project" and post your dyno sheets. If you get over 5whp gain, I will give you $20.

Oh..you said all the G35Driver veterans always say the same thing...because we've been here long enough to see all the dyno sheets that have been posted in the last two years, and we have heard 1000 new threads a week asking "what intake should i get!?!?!?". IT GETS OLD. Yes, there have been dynos posted. Why am I not showing you them? Sorry, I don't save every dyno sheet and bookmark every page. Maybe I should to prove you wrong though.

 

i just wanna know why in all those pictures you dont have a cone on the intake or am i just missing something? that engine you have looks just like my wifes stock one except the intake coming off the top

 

A lot of people yank their filters when running at the strip. Additionally, that appears to be a KA-series motor and that is not a factory peice for that generation car. The KA motors pack a wallop punch and came in Hondas after 2003, I believe. The Honda depicted ended it's run in the mid 90s. 235whp in a 2,300lb car is going to move.

 

I agree, I don't think he's going to find any additional power with any other of intake design, but I'd like to see him try. I've been wrong the past and maybe he's know something we don't. Everything he's said so far is nothing new and I don't see it working, but maybe there's something else he's considering.

 

That data should be charished, stored and archived. That is the real data, proof, facts. Shame on you for not saving the good stuff. If that was readily available you would probably cut the "what intake?" questions by 50% at least. Unfortunately this is the probably with 90% of auto related BB's, so consider G35driver "in the norm".

 

BolivianF & All,

Let me know if I can be of any assistance with the BPI products.

 

There is no way that the resonator on the G tube will hinder performance! It's simply there for noice reduction. If you dyno before and after any change is more than likely going to be atmospheric conditions or warm engine. Move on already.

 

I'll match the $20 too.

 

My offer still stands.

 

The G35 actually has two intake resonators. One is the intake pipe and it's the obvious one. From what I can tell, it's there solely to reduce induction noise and according to dynos before and after Z-tube dynos, it doesn't hamper power (numbers within dyno variance). The second resonator is attached to the lower portion of the airbox. I believe this resonator improves throttle response and acts like a Helmhotlz resonator.

For two years, my intake setup was a modified power duct (opened up about 30%), Z-tube, and the airbox resonator blocked off. After adding the spacer, the lowend power felt weaker and I feared that the spacer with the modded airbox was causing a lean condition. I then tried installed a stock power duct cover and the car felt a bit snappier at all rpms, especially off the line. 6 months later I decided to remove the stopped from the airbox resonator and the motor felt even better. More interesting was the fact that the induction noise got louder. Basically after 3.5 years of owning this car, the stock airbox with the Z-tube is really the way to go. It offers the best driveability, especially with an auto. I'd be interested in trying out the 05+ revup velocity stack and might do it if I can find a stock airbox for $50 or less.

I've done so many tests on various modifed versions of the intake that my head spins thinking about it. In the end, stock seems to be the best and has been verified by some our better drag racers.

 

Shame on him???? I hope you’re joking! He did/does what all (most) of us have – researched the hell of the data and talked with boatloads of knowledgeable people that have tested various mods.

Personally I feel no obligation to archive all the information and knowledge I’ve gained to pull up at a moments notice for someone that doesn’t want to do the leg-work.

Many of us have been extremely successful in the mod choices we’ve made and it shows at dyno days and the track – yet there are always a handful of people that want to challenge the facts.

BTW – as you know this is one of MANY forums available and several others have information that people here dispute. So it really doesn’t matter what is posted, someone will always make a debate out of it.

But suggesting that someone should be able to post data as evidence is crazy. We all have jobs, personal responsibilities, etc – and compiling months/years worth of knowledge in written form for someone’s demand doesn’t fly with most people.

*if the only mod anyone ever considered was an intake, it would be understandable… but an intake is one tiny factor (and not one of the most relevant ones)… this thread is one of a bazillion intake threads that is going much deeper than it will ever be worth.

 

One of the most important things I think people fail to realize is that not one mod will make any substantial difference… and even a combination of viable mods wont do anything without a tune… intake and exhaust mods that actually work will kill power without air/fuel ratio being optimized…

It’s so bizarre when people say I tried (fill in the blank) and actually lost power! *H-E-L-L-O, maybe this is a good thing and indicates the mods is working! Now adjust the A/F to take advantage of your progress… I’ve had mods make my car run lean; the ECU pulls timing and the car slugs. If you run lean after breather mods – the mod is working… so if you really want to test a mod, don’t do before and after track runs or dynos – just measure the A/F. That’s it. If you are running lean, the mod is working… if you want to make power, get a tune after you confirm the mod made a difference.

There aren’t any mods that you can slap on and do nothing else and have a drastic difference over stock. Period. However, there are many mods that work well together and when tuned properly do result in success.

 

Back up!!!

Why? Because i am now ready to do a dyno intake test, i am going to test out the intake that i plan on using, BPI intake which is their V-Stack and a Filter, vs. anything you guys send my way.

I want to test it vs. say mainly the Stillen intake as i too will be mating the BPI stack to the stock 350z Arm and stock MAF housing unit.

Anyone willing to send me thier intake to do testing?


Or any donations? It is going to cost me $150 out of pocket for that dyno time! My paypal is pryctouno@aol.com just incase

 

Consider it an R&D expense. Nobody's paying for my dyno's.

Just wait for the Motordyne Iso-Thermal intake to come out . No, that's not a typo either!