I don't understand your personal insults.....you were wrong....it isn't my fault that you don't know the correct terminology. Secondly, I don't need dyno results. I log my own IAT's for my own benefit. I saw a drop in 10-12C temps in static traffic after I insulated the area around the filter.....that was within 2-4C of the 06 airbox in similar conditions (w/o front duct). Bottom line is my car traps 84-86mph in the 1/8th consistently regardless of temps. It obviously isn't effecting my off line, initial IAT's drastically or I wouldn't be going quicker in the 1/8th than any other bolt-on DE out there. I have also trapped 107.96 and 107.91.....both of which I believe are the highest for a bolt-on DE. I've been building/racing cars for a while.....I'm not new at this. Suck it up.....take it as lesson and move on. It is a common misrepresentation of terms.

Edit....looks like Aceman went 108mph once....so second quickest trap.

 

I'm insulting you because you came off as a complete ***. Oh I'm so sorry for using the same term for more than one thing, that NEVER happens in life... my bad!

And secondly you claimed that it is the best for hp besides the 06 airbox, ya you do need dyno proof for that sorry. It doesn't matter what you ran unless those were all on the same day/same time/same conditions with the different boxes. Not to mention the difference a driver can make run to run. Congratulations on being quick on the track but once again that doesn't prove your point. Next time you try to come and argue with me about something that is relatively well known at least bring some good evidence.

 

Tests were done on the same day, boss. I'm done with this one sided argument, which you provide insults to my information and facts. No, I don't have back to back dyno results with the 06 vs Pop, but the IAT logs were on the same day. I'll say this....my car has been on a dyno MANY times....it performs well above average. What do you have to contribute.............other than tint review?

Slow down and know your role.....

^This was your initial statement......which is factually incorrect.

Searching this site will lead you to misinformation....99.5% have good intentions, but don't know what they are talking about. Searching through old/archived posts will not always lead you to a correct answer. You are best off using MANY sites to compile resources and information.

Edit:
Your previous post about "soaking" the air is nothing more than elevated, stationary IAT's. Not the proper definition of "heat soak"......that was my point.

 

What you aren't realizing is that a phrase CAN and often DOES mean multiple things. Just because there is one definition for a phrase doesn't mean it only applies to that. If the world worked like that there would be no way we could define and talk about more than a few things. You assumed I meant something and went ahead and tried to tell me I was spreading bs when in fact I am doing nothing of the kind. You can go ahead and believe the jwt intake gives you more power, I and most others disagree but that is fine. But I wouldn't tell someone it makes power without showing them some actual proof when advertise a highly disputed claim.

Oh and nice one searching through all my posts and picking a recommendation about window tint rather than all the other parts discussions I have helped people out with. Congrats bro, shows how respectable a source of information you are.

 

Honest to god.....I have never searched any of your posts outside this thread.....no reason too. That's hilarious that I was on the money though.......lol.

 

When most of us think of heat soak on a car, we think of an intake tract piping, air boxes, intake manifolds, and cylinder heads that are significantly warmer than ambient temps. As most of us gearheads know, a warm engine is an efficent engine and a warm engine injected with cold dense air is a powerful engine.

A scalding hot intake manifold and intake tract will have very little impact on overall intake temps because the air at moderate or full throttle is being sucked in at a very fast rate therefore it has no time to really heat up. It takes fractions (most likely thousandths of second) for one air molecule to go from the intake to the combustion chamber when the motor is at full throttle. This is why I think it's so funny when people wrap their intake tracts in this NASA reflective shielding.

The real impact on performance is the temperature of the air. The hotter the air, the less oxygen it contains. At stoplight on 80 degree day, it's not uncommon for the underhood temps in G/Z to climb above 130 degrees. If you've got a POP charger, it's ingesting that extremely hot air. Not until you reach a speed of around 30-35mph does the IAT reading actually drop significantly (usually within 10 degrees of ambient). At a constant speed, the IATs of the POP or stock setup will be at ambient. At a stop, the OEM intake will see about 10 to 20 degree higher intake temps. That's better than seeing 60+ over ambient. In a race from a stop in warmer weather, the POP equipped VQ is going to be down on power because the ECU is seeing excessively high IATs. In cooler weather, the impact is not so severe and is the reason why many with POP setups can run decent ET/MPH in sub 60 degree weather. I've had POPs on other cars and loved the sound, but HATED the lousy low end power in the warm weather. The motor just felt flat in 1st and some of 2nd.

With that said, these VQ motors run really slow in warm and humid temps. With my old VQ30 (Maxima), I would typically see a difference of .4 seconds and 4mph between running on a humid mid 80 degree day vs running on a cool and dry 55 degree day. I haven't raced my G enough to verify such extreme swings in performance, but I do know my G feels much stronger and responsive when the temps are below 80 and the humidity is low. When it's 95 and humid, the car is a dog. When it's 75 and dry, it's an entirely different animal....just like my Maxima was. The point to my rambling? Don't bother running your VQ cars in hot weather.

 

I only see a .3 (+/- .05) diff from +2800' to -800'. My speed varies by as much as 3.5mph though. It's true.....the VQ hates heat. My car shakes off the heat before hitting second without issue......

 

haha your so full of ****, why don't you read dave's response and learn from that. Unlike you, Dave is a highly respected member here who has proved himself many times to have great knowledge of the g35 platform. And he has stated the exact same thing as me, that unless you are cruising at a high, constant speed your popcharger will be taking in hotter air and be making less power. Therefore you aren't making more power with the popcharger minus the possibility of cold weather, but there still isn't any proof that a jwt in cold weather makes more power than a stock box in cold weather.

 

I like DaveB....we agree at times and disagree on others...his response pretty much echo's my statements....

I don't own a G......you can feel free to check my rep on my350.....


ALSO, you won't see anywhere in this thread where I said a JWT will make more power than an 06.......

Try again please...

EDIT: Again, I had an 06 box and liked it....the only reason I run a pop charger is because the larger velocity stack (which I had lathed to 80mm) to match my larger MAF housing....I would probably still run the 06 if I used the factory MAF.

 

had it on my G and took it off within 2 months. Complete crap when it came to performance especially in LA where its over 75 degrees 365 days out of the year.

 

BTW 350z and G35 intake design is slightly different when it comes to the whole right above the grill for the 350z. G doesn't have that so that might be a cause for you to have a different "feel" than G owners.

 

I didn't specifically say the 06 airbox, I said the stock airbox which can include 05, etc. The 06 is a better air design, but I doubt it makes a big difference. The G/Z intake is not a bottle neck in terms of performance so in all reality we aren't talking about big changes in power either way due to different intakes. I too run a jwt on my car, not because I am concerned with peak performance, but because I enjoy the change in tone it offers. If I were to go to the track or suck I would replace it with the stock airbox. I have been interested in possibly exploring the use of a jwt intake with a box like stillens, but that would involve just messing around with either a stillen box or stock box to get it to fit well.

 

^You can insulate the area around the filter element........fraction of the cost and it will help. If you track (autox/hpde/time trial) the initial high IAT's aren't really a problem....

 

It really shouldn't be too hard to fab up an airbox for the JWT using the forward portion of the OEM airbox and then buying some thinner plexiglass and forming a box around the exposed portions of the filter. Glue with some high end epoxy. You could then paint the plexi portions black. The key is to get the OEM front and fabbed rear to have a relatively airtight seal (easily done with some 1" wide electrical tape). It wouldn't be pretty, but I could see it working quite nicely. It would basically be a Stillen CAI, but instead with a sealed airbox rather than it being open on some portions.

 

Hmm interesting idea, I definitely think that would be doable, but ya aesthetically it would probably look terrible haha. If only jwt would pursue this and be able to make it out of abs plastic or something where a mold could allow much better aesthetics while the proper build.