What can I do?
#1
06-22-2007, 04:20 AM
#5
06-22-2007, 04:46 AM
that unfortunately cannot be pdr'd, a good shop can pull out the panel from the outside by welding to the qp to reshape and then fill and smooth it back to the original shape. Had the same thing happen with a hit and run in a parking lot, except my crease extended onto the door as well. Make sure they blend the qp into the rear bumper and door as well for a good match, and they reclear all those pieces completely. A good shop will also pull the window so there aren't any seams in the paint, good luck
#7
06-22-2007, 04:57 AM
Originally Posted by redlude97
that unfortunately cannot be pdr'd, a good shop can pull out the panel from the outside by welding to the qp to reshape and then fill and smooth it back to the original shape. Had the same thing happen with a hit and run in a parking lot, except my crease extended onto the door as well. Make sure they blend the qp into the rear bumper and door as well for a good match, and they reclear all those pieces completely. A good shop will also pull the window so there aren't any seams in the paint, good luck
it happened about an hour ago...so i'll be stopping by the body shop tomorrow.
but i can't sleep right now
so i'm wondering how much this is going to set me back.
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#9
06-22-2007, 04:59 AM
#10
06-22-2007, 05:10 AM
sorry to see this. redlude is correct. make sure you go to a shop using updated materials and procedures. weldpullers do not require a hole to be drilled into the panel...make sure they have weldpullers. also, you will most likely have to have the color blended into the door, but they should not touch your rear bumper.
let me be very specific here on how paint blending is done. they will pull that dent, use filler to reshape, and prime only the area that is repaired. the first few layers of colorcoat will be applied only to the repaired area to cover the primer. after full coverage, colorcoat is applied by lightly fanning it out (blending) over the factory finish...probably 10-12 inches past the repair. this is done so that there is no drastic edge between the new paint and existing paint. since the door is so close to where the repair will be done, the will most likely blend onto that panel. they will then clear the entire quarter and door. i don't know how well dg rocker panels match (my lp rockers from the factory are a shade off) but they shouldn't need to be painted.
edit: at a good shop, you should be looking at around $1000-$1200. good luck, i can relate to your distress. i'm also very particular about this kind of stuff and it drives me nuts to when it happens.
let me be very specific here on how paint blending is done. they will pull that dent, use filler to reshape, and prime only the area that is repaired. the first few layers of colorcoat will be applied only to the repaired area to cover the primer. after full coverage, colorcoat is applied by lightly fanning it out (blending) over the factory finish...probably 10-12 inches past the repair. this is done so that there is no drastic edge between the new paint and existing paint. since the door is so close to where the repair will be done, the will most likely blend onto that panel. they will then clear the entire quarter and door. i don't know how well dg rocker panels match (my lp rockers from the factory are a shade off) but they shouldn't need to be painted.
edit: at a good shop, you should be looking at around $1000-$1200. good luck, i can relate to your distress. i'm also very particular about this kind of stuff and it drives me nuts to when it happens.
Last edited by speedracerg35; 06-22-2007 at 05:19 AM.
#11
06-22-2007, 05:13 AM
#12
06-22-2007, 05:16 AM
Originally Posted by speedracerg35
sorry to see this. redlude is correct. make sure you go to a shop using updated materials and procedures. weldpullers do not require a hole to be drilled into the panel...make sure they have weldpullers. also, you will most likely have to have the color blended into the door, but they should not touch your rear bumper.
let me be very specific here on how paint blending is done. they will pull that dent, use filler to reshape, and prime only the area that is repaired. the first few layers of colorcoat will be applied only to the repaired area to cover the primer. after full coverage, colorcoat is applied by lightly fanning it out (blending) over existing colorcoat...probably 10-12 inches past the repair. this is done so that there is no drastic edge between the new paint and existing paint. since the door is so close to where the repair will be done, the will most likely blend onto that panel. they will then clear the entire quarter and door. i don't know how well dg rocker panels match (my lp rockers from the factory are a shade off) but they shouldn't need to be painted.
let me be very specific here on how paint blending is done. they will pull that dent, use filler to reshape, and prime only the area that is repaired. the first few layers of colorcoat will be applied only to the repaired area to cover the primer. after full coverage, colorcoat is applied by lightly fanning it out (blending) over existing colorcoat...probably 10-12 inches past the repair. this is done so that there is no drastic edge between the new paint and existing paint. since the door is so close to where the repair will be done, the will most likely blend onto that panel. they will then clear the entire quarter and door. i don't know how well dg rocker panels match (my lp rockers from the factory are a shade off) but they shouldn't need to be painted.
#13
06-22-2007, 05:21 AM
Originally Posted by speedracerg35
sorry to see this. redlude is correct. make sure you go to a shop using updated materials and procedures. weldpullers do not require a hole to be drilled into the panel...make sure they have weldpullers. also, you will most likely have to have the color blended into the door, but they should not touch your rear bumper.
let me be very specific here on how paint blending is done. they will pull that dent, use filler to reshape, and prime only the area that is repaired. the first few layers of colorcoat will be applied only to the repaired area to cover the primer. after full coverage, colorcoat is applied by lightly fanning it out (blending) over the factory finish...probably 10-12 inches past the repair. this is done so that there is no drastic edge between the new paint and existing paint. since the door is so close to where the repair will be done, the will most likely blend onto that panel. they will then clear the entire quarter and door. i don't know how well dg rocker panels match (my lp rockers from the factory are a shade off) but they shouldn't need to be painted.
edit: at a good shop, you should be looking at around $1000-$1200. good luck, i can relate to your distress. i'm also very particular about this kind of stuff and it drives me nuts to when it happens.
let me be very specific here on how paint blending is done. they will pull that dent, use filler to reshape, and prime only the area that is repaired. the first few layers of colorcoat will be applied only to the repaired area to cover the primer. after full coverage, colorcoat is applied by lightly fanning it out (blending) over the factory finish...probably 10-12 inches past the repair. this is done so that there is no drastic edge between the new paint and existing paint. since the door is so close to where the repair will be done, the will most likely blend onto that panel. they will then clear the entire quarter and door. i don't know how well dg rocker panels match (my lp rockers from the factory are a shade off) but they shouldn't need to be painted.
edit: at a good shop, you should be looking at around $1000-$1200. good luck, i can relate to your distress. i'm also very particular about this kind of stuff and it drives me nuts to when it happens.
that is not what i wanted to hear!
(not pissed at you, heh)but thanks for your help.
i'm not going to be able to sleep tonight...
sucks that no one will hire me for 2 months (going back to college at the end of august). i can pay for this right now, but money will be really tight if i do. so it's either i get a job (miracle) or i live with this for a while...
Last edited by Calvin; 06-22-2007 at 05:25 AM.
#14
06-22-2007, 05:26 AM
Originally Posted by redlude97
You may be right and the bumper may not need to be blended, mine got knicked as well and they blended the bumper along with the qp and door. One thing to look at is after the blend if you can see the blending on the inside of the door opening. Likely when they blend they'll do it with the door closed, which leave a slight line when the door is opened. Most people wouldn't notice, but I happen to. About the only thing I wasn't particularly happy about. I'm not sure if there is even a good solution to this, but its something to look for when its done
a good shop will not leave the gap between the door and quarter unprotected during paint. make sure they use gap foam or equivalent to keep overspray from getting into the door area.
gap foam = 3m product about quarter inch round foam tube that comes in a roll. it is sticky and is applied either to the door edge or all the way around the door sill. once applied and the door is closed, it covers the gap and prevents a paint edge on the door sill and backside of the door.