Solvent pop, paint blister?
#1
Solvent pop, paint blister?
My 1500 dollar paint job is starting to show. Here's the story, these spots were there before the car was repainted but weren't there when I bought the car. Car was in a accident where the spots are so I'm assuming it was painted right before I bought it as well. Car was clean after I got it painted especially for the price I paid. 6 months later the same spots are coming thru.
What could be causing this? Why does it show up 6 months later? Obviously there's bondo repair work under the paint so maybe it didn't have enough time to flash off? It's hard to look at so any help is appreciated
What could be causing this? Why does it show up 6 months later? Obviously there's bondo repair work under the paint so maybe it didn't have enough time to flash off? It's hard to look at so any help is appreciated
#2
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Washington State
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Coupe 6MT Premium RAS
#5
Thanks for the input. Kinda scared to see how much body work has been done to that panel. The two quarter panels sound completely different when you give them a good knock.
My plan is to pick up a cheap panel from the junkyard and learn to paint some ****! Sounds like silver metallic is one of the hardest colors to work with
My plan is to pick up a cheap panel from the junkyard and learn to paint some ****! Sounds like silver metallic is one of the hardest colors to work with
#6
Silver is the hardest color to paint
I've seen labels with 1/4" filler and still havent cracked so dont too worried
Illl just take it back and make them grind it down and at least pull some of the damage out so they wont need much body filler
The correct way to fix it is replacing the quaterpanel but that's going to be a lot
I've seen labels with 1/4" filler and still havent cracked so dont too worried
Illl just take it back and make them grind it down and at least pull some of the damage out so they wont need much body filler
The correct way to fix it is replacing the quaterpanel but that's going to be a lot
#7
Welp, picked up a fender at the junkyard for $10 and some paint and clear for about $60. They had some mismatched paint for dirt cheap but I wanted to practice with my color code. Gotta say, painting is pretty fun. The type of work that leaves you satisfied. Prep work, not so much. Definitely need to find a way to paint in a controlled environment. Such a small piece to paint, but way too much overspray that got on some things in the garage. Opened the door and dirt and bugs couldn't resist trying out the wet paint. Very happy with the first attempt. Turned out better than most panels I paid to have painted. Waiting till tomorrow to sand and give it another go.
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#8
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The hardest part about spraying your own is adjusting the gun properly so you don't end up with fisheye. That and mastering distance vs. speed. Just takes a lot of practice and I strongly recommend new painters back up a bit, waste a little more paint, and apply more coats.
It is fun though, except cleaning up when you're done
It is fun though, except cleaning up when you're done
#9
Just practicing with the cheap harbor freight purple gun. Which honestly, pulls it's weight for the price. Watched some videos first then tweaked the adjustments. The gun layed the clear on like glass. I can't find any orange peel and no runs. The sales rep at finishmaster was a tremendous help also. Probably going to pick up another gun and use one for base only and the other for clear.
#10
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Yeah I use a Kobalt spray gun, I think I run 1.2 for paint and 1.5 for clear but I'd have to go over to the shop and double check that. I do prefer a smaller nozzle though but I don't paint often. Back when I was spraying gelcoat for a living I wanted the biggest possible nozzle because it was a matter of turning product out quickly in volume and I think I was using a 2.0.
Man that seems like a lifetime ago, I didn't even have kids back then lol.
I do know that painter SKILL is practically everything, great equipment can make a shitty painter seem decent but a master painter can lay down masterful work almost regardless of the brand of equipment. Some you just have to watch out for accumulating droplets or they aren't comfortable for an 8 hour day or they're easier to clean, etc. The quality of the finish you're laying down though (not talking about paint QUALITY which is a massive rabbit hole) is practically indistinguishable if skill is not a factor.
Now I do strongly recommend you invest heavily into a really good water trap and spray gun filters though, air contaminates are probably the biggest issue I see with folks getting into painting with cheaper equipment.
If you're going to continue spraying in your garage I also strongly recommend you make some kind of airflow system to keep the vapors out, a suction system requires a very expensive sealed motor that won't ignite the vapors, I recommend you instead use a pressure system. Buy a cheap high cfm fan, it will be noisy but that's usually not a problem. Stick it outside the area you're painting and use it to push air INTO where you are painting using 12" flexible ductwork or whatever else is handy, at the end of it you want to duct tape on an air conditioning HEPA filter, this will keep from pushing dust into the room you're painting. Now close the garage doors down so they're only open about 18 inches, buy a bunch of cheap 20x20 air filters (like the replacement ones for your house) and tape them together at the bottom of the door so nothing gets back into the garage. The only thing left to do is set up curtains to keep overspray to a minimum, for years I used pushpins and a bunch of old queen sized sheets, this system worked EXCELLENT.
Don't use a cheap mask, buy a 3M, make sure your filters are rated for organic vapor and use pre-filters, the pre-filters will get gummed and replaced quite a few times before you're saturating the primary cartridges.
Now for the most important part of painting... mask fit...
This has always been a huge issue for me because I have a beard, and usually a LARGE beard, and I'm not going to cut it off just because something needs painted... I have found a way to get a very decent seal on a mask with a large beard though and it involves wrapping saran wrap around my head, yes it sounds wierd but it works very well. First I apply a pretty liberal coat of vasoline to my face around my mouth where the mask would fit, then wrap around the lower part of my head a couple times with plastic saran wrap/food wrap. Then more vasoline on the plastic, then put the mask on. Clamp your hands over the filters and take in a deep breath, you should have NO AIR WHATSOEVER sucking past the edges of the mask. Yeah it's wierd, yeah it works...
Man that seems like a lifetime ago, I didn't even have kids back then lol.
I do know that painter SKILL is practically everything, great equipment can make a shitty painter seem decent but a master painter can lay down masterful work almost regardless of the brand of equipment. Some you just have to watch out for accumulating droplets or they aren't comfortable for an 8 hour day or they're easier to clean, etc. The quality of the finish you're laying down though (not talking about paint QUALITY which is a massive rabbit hole) is practically indistinguishable if skill is not a factor.
Now I do strongly recommend you invest heavily into a really good water trap and spray gun filters though, air contaminates are probably the biggest issue I see with folks getting into painting with cheaper equipment.
If you're going to continue spraying in your garage I also strongly recommend you make some kind of airflow system to keep the vapors out, a suction system requires a very expensive sealed motor that won't ignite the vapors, I recommend you instead use a pressure system. Buy a cheap high cfm fan, it will be noisy but that's usually not a problem. Stick it outside the area you're painting and use it to push air INTO where you are painting using 12" flexible ductwork or whatever else is handy, at the end of it you want to duct tape on an air conditioning HEPA filter, this will keep from pushing dust into the room you're painting. Now close the garage doors down so they're only open about 18 inches, buy a bunch of cheap 20x20 air filters (like the replacement ones for your house) and tape them together at the bottom of the door so nothing gets back into the garage. The only thing left to do is set up curtains to keep overspray to a minimum, for years I used pushpins and a bunch of old queen sized sheets, this system worked EXCELLENT.
Don't use a cheap mask, buy a 3M, make sure your filters are rated for organic vapor and use pre-filters, the pre-filters will get gummed and replaced quite a few times before you're saturating the primary cartridges.
Now for the most important part of painting... mask fit...
This has always been a huge issue for me because I have a beard, and usually a LARGE beard, and I'm not going to cut it off just because something needs painted... I have found a way to get a very decent seal on a mask with a large beard though and it involves wrapping saran wrap around my head, yes it sounds wierd but it works very well. First I apply a pretty liberal coat of vasoline to my face around my mouth where the mask would fit, then wrap around the lower part of my head a couple times with plastic saran wrap/food wrap. Then more vasoline on the plastic, then put the mask on. Clamp your hands over the filters and take in a deep breath, you should have NO AIR WHATSOEVER sucking past the edges of the mask. Yeah it's wierd, yeah it works...
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FreshLikeAG (03-10-2019)
#12
@cleric670@gmail All very good advice. Love the idea of setting up curtains to help with overspray. I didn't realize how bad it gets till I saw silver metallic later on everything in the garage. When it comes time to actually paint my car, I know there are spray booths near me for rent.
@Edgarc6789 holy **** that iwata looks like an expensive gun. Hope you get some good results with it. I'll stick with my $10 disposal one from HF for now thank you china
@Edgarc6789 holy **** that iwata looks like an expensive gun. Hope you get some good results with it. I'll stick with my $10 disposal one from HF for now thank you china
#13
Took a flimsy hockey schedule magnet off the fridge to see if it would stick to the repaired quarter panel. It wouldn't stick to about half the quarter panel so I'm guessing someone just slapped body filler on there like mud. The more I get into it, the more I feel like just taking it to a shop
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