New Mods - JDM Rear Tails & CF Battery/Brake Covers
#46
but look at the second to last picture of the taillights you posted.... don't they look off? like the reverse light is a brighter red, i dunno - they just dont' look like they match
most likely because my car was FILTHY from driving 360 miles both ways to and from the BEACH. the other car was freshly washed
#47
That's just the way the sunlight is catching the reflector in the reverse light in that pic.... but that actually makes the reverse light look more pinky than the JDM, not the other way around. Either way, in nomal light they look virtually identical from every angle. I actually pulled out the factory light and put it next to the JDM and I'd have to say that the red plastic has got to be EXACTLY the same color and even looks like exactly the same plastic. I can't see any difference whatsoever between the two.... other than the amber turn signal surround, ofcourse. I'm wondering if maybe your factory lights were faded a little or something that caused them to be different?
#48
#49
Thank, Terry! Seeing them on your car was one of the reasons I bought them... They look very good on your Blue Slate, but since the differences are so subtle, they don't look over done... just unique.
Yeah, you are right, they are VERY subtle, but that's how I like things.... subtle drop, subtle tint, stock wheels with subtle wheels spacers, etc... Just like you said... Most people (not on this forum) that see my car actually think it's stock, but they can't figure out why it looks better than all the other stock G35 sedans on the road, and that's how I like it. LOL
Incidentally, have you gotten yourself a set of the Hotchkis sway bars yet? If / when you do, let me know and I'd be happy to help you put them on.
Yeah, you are right, they are VERY subtle, but that's how I like things.... subtle drop, subtle tint, stock wheels with subtle wheels spacers, etc... Just like you said... Most people (not on this forum) that see my car actually think it's stock, but they can't figure out why it looks better than all the other stock G35 sedans on the road, and that's how I like it. LOL
Incidentally, have you gotten yourself a set of the Hotchkis sway bars yet? If / when you do, let me know and I'd be happy to help you put them on.
#50
Subtle is always good, i love it when people think the car is stock but can't figure out why it looks so much better than all the other one running around on the street.
Btw Adrian how hard is it to install the front sways? i might take you up on your offer and try to install your sport sway.
Btw Adrian how hard is it to install the front sways? i might take you up on your offer and try to install your sport sway.
#51
The front sway is actually easier than the rear. If you can get a set of ramps, then that will help... just be VERY carful when driving up on the ramps and watch that the ramps don't slide as you try and drive up them... it's always a good idea to have a "spotter" when using ramps.
Once up on ramps just remove all of the bolts (these are 10mm if I remember correctly) and clips holding on the lower plastic undertray. There's like 15 - 20 fasteners total in that thing, so it takesa bit of time to get it off, but they are all very easy to remove, so it's not difficult. Once the undertray is off, you'll have full access to the sway bar brackets and end links. You'll need need a set of box wrenches (either 14mm and 17mm, or 17mm and 19mm, I can't remember, but if you have all 3, then you'll be fine) and a 14mm socket (If I recall correctly) for the bracket bolts. Just remove the end link nuts first to take the load off the sway bar... these are the toughest ones to break loose, so a breaker bar definitely comes in handy here... then once the end link nuts are off and the end links are removed from the stock bar, then you can remove the 4 bolts holding in the factory bushing u-brackets holding on the factory sway bar... that's it... install is just the reverse of removal. It's a pretty simply sway... plus, you will be able to tell if th new bar will work as soon as you get the undertray cover off, so you won't actually have to go through the whole install to know if it will fit.
Once up on ramps just remove all of the bolts (these are 10mm if I remember correctly) and clips holding on the lower plastic undertray. There's like 15 - 20 fasteners total in that thing, so it takesa bit of time to get it off, but they are all very easy to remove, so it's not difficult. Once the undertray is off, you'll have full access to the sway bar brackets and end links. You'll need need a set of box wrenches (either 14mm and 17mm, or 17mm and 19mm, I can't remember, but if you have all 3, then you'll be fine) and a 14mm socket (If I recall correctly) for the bracket bolts. Just remove the end link nuts first to take the load off the sway bar... these are the toughest ones to break loose, so a breaker bar definitely comes in handy here... then once the end link nuts are off and the end links are removed from the stock bar, then you can remove the 4 bolts holding in the factory bushing u-brackets holding on the factory sway bar... that's it... install is just the reverse of removal. It's a pretty simply sway... plus, you will be able to tell if th new bar will work as soon as you get the undertray cover off, so you won't actually have to go through the whole install to know if it will fit.
#52
#53
Once I told him he was like WOW and ran over to the car to see them. Without me saying anything e also said the lights look like the red is a different tint - oh well who knows. They look great either way!
#55
#58
#59
Just ended up getting them done in textured black. I really just wanted to get rid of that fugly GT-Spec blue color. LOL...
Also, picked up a few of the chrome window trim pieces and I'm goona have them painted back to see how they turn out. All black windo trim will be my next project.
Got both the CF engine cover and license plate frame from Rick at Riverside Infiniti. Just give him a call at 1-800-919-8130 and he'll take care of you... let him know Adrian sent you. I think I paid just under $200 for the CF engine cover, but I can't remember for sure... it's been a while and i'm getting old.
Nice! It's a pretty straight forward job.. Not too difficult at all... Travis may have mentioned this to you already, but just make sure that you spin the ball joints around 180° before mounting the new arm, otherwise you won't have enough postive camber adjustment for a lowered car.. You'll also need a large socket (1-1/16" if I recall correctly) in order to tighten the new ball joint down, as well as a torque wrench or breaker bar with pivoting head. Let me know if you'd like any help or if you have any questions on the install. Have fun!!!
Also, picked up a few of the chrome window trim pieces and I'm goona have them painted back to see how they turn out. All black windo trim will be my next project.
Nice! It's a pretty straight forward job.. Not too difficult at all... Travis may have mentioned this to you already, but just make sure that you spin the ball joints around 180° before mounting the new arm, otherwise you won't have enough postive camber adjustment for a lowered car.. You'll also need a large socket (1-1/16" if I recall correctly) in order to tighten the new ball joint down, as well as a torque wrench or breaker bar with pivoting head. Let me know if you'd like any help or if you have any questions on the install. Have fun!!!