Beer cans are made of 6061?

 

what size are the studs we have to remove for the install? Also, what is the diameter for the bolts we have to buy extra washers for?
Thanks
Eric

 

studs are same size as other bolts, washers are now included with the kits

 

Which is 6, 8mm?

 

i just installed my 3/8 spacer yesterday and after a ecu reset i've noticed significant gains after the 4k rpm range... it does sound deeper although my helix test pipe along with the injen ses overpowers just about any thing i've ever heard.... anyways it's definately worth the cash and you will feel a difference....

 

Cool, I ordered my 3/8 also...are the gains you've experienced more of a horsepower gain, torque gain, both??

Do you think you lost any torque??

Thanks

 

I am going to try and get it dynoed in the next week or so.
It will be an accurate test, as I just dynoed last month and this is the only mod. I have changed.
My Butt dyno.....says YES!
No loss...but gain in torque.
It seems to pull harder with no apparent downside.

 

I hope that I, and the rest of us, experience the same gains OLDVFRGUY.

 

FYI your line is off even if you received a 1/2" spacer.

 

I can't stress how important it is to use the same dyno EVERY TIME. Anything else is worthless. It doesn't have to be on the same day because the numbers should be SAE corrected to compensate for varying weather conditions. Dyno with the engine slightly warmed up and you'll get very accurate results, especially when using a Dynojet.

I look forward to seeing more comparison dynos because going by seat of the pants feel is pretty worthless in my book.

I sure hope this thing works because I'll buy it ASAP if the numbers look decent.

 

Ditto, MORE TORQUE.

Installed 3/8" spacer today and felt it right away, from low rpms.

In my particular case rpms climb just a little bit slower, I tend to think it is my 3" y-pipe outlet connected to 2.5" mid-pipe inlet that's choking the system now.

Overall I like the way it changed the car all through the rpm range, not just up top. Top end however is where the biggest gains are. And no, Copbait, I didn't try it at the stop light.

This mod IMO made more noticable power than y-pipe and z-tube combined. I will be heading to the dyno place I got my baseline from after I get mid-pipe situation resolved.

Few suggestions on install:
1. Instructions said to disconnect z-tube just from the throttle body, but I'd recommend removing it altogether, makes alignment process less troublesome. Guess the author didn't have to deal with this, since he had CAI.

2. Bend the braket that sits on the back of the plenum towards the firewall. Raised mountpoint created a strain in wiring. In my opinion that could cause problems on the long run.

 

Dave,
It actually is important to dyno on the same day. (or at least with the same tank of gasoline and atmospheric conditions.) SAE corrections only make corrections based on the oxygen content per unit volume of air. Changes in temperature and humidity affect oxygen content per units of volume. This correction would be just fine for engines that hold timing constant, but in the case of the VQ, the SAE corrections cannot account for the ECU pulling timing on a hot day, or advancing timing on a cool day.

Timing advance will have a significant effect on power but SAE corrections cannot account for this.

SoCal dyno day is next week! Watch for the dyno results!

 

When I dyno, I usually dyno when it's cooler out (below 70) and I let the car cool for about an hour before strapping it down on the dyno. I don't think a lot of people in here have the money to make 2-3 pulls then add the mod and make 2-3 pulls more. Here in Kansas City, that would cost you about $100 assuming you take the car off the dyno when doing the mods. I'm totally aware of the VQ's sensitivity to heat soak and high temp/humidity. That's why I don't waste my time racing on 70+ degree days and it's also why I dyno in the conditions I race in. With my Maxima I was consistently .25 and nearly 3mph slower racing in humid 80-95 degree weather with low baro pressure compared to racing in crisp high pressure 50-65 degree weather.

IMO, if you dyno on the same machine under similiar atmospheric conditions, engine at operating temps, same tire/wheel combo and psi, no heatsoak on the intake manifold, and same gas then your results should be within 2-3whp on the Dynojet on seperate days. At least that's been my experience with these VQ motors.

 

By taking your car off of the rollers, you've just changed the test. I've seen a 4 WHP difference on the same car between pulls simply because of the way the car was strapped to the rollers. I've also seen a 12 WHP difference on a 500WHP Mustang simply by changing tire pressures.

The tire/drum interface is more important than most people think. All Dynojet operators are not the same either. A good operator looking for consistency will strap the car down, run it up to speed, and re-cinch before making an instrumented pull. This will eliminate some variables, but not all.

A Dynojet also needs to come up to temp. As the bearings and other friction surfaces warm up, they are easier to turn, which shows up as a higher HP pull. The first few pulls of the day, and the first few pulls after a long cooldown are going to read lower than the later pulls.

I am curious to see 2WHP repeatability across several days, EVEN WITH SAE correction....even with the same dyno. Maybe one can get a matching pull if a bunch are made, but the range from first to last will be greater than 2WHP......making it statistical 'noise'

 

I've seen 5whp differences in numbers between back to back "hot lap" runs with no changes to the car.

When I've dynoed, the Dynojet has already made a few passes itself so I'm not worried about it's warm up. My shop straps the cars down pretty tightly at all four corners and I always run the OEM spec'd psi in the tires. I dynoed my Maxima 6 times some of which were with minimal mod changes. The shape and initial power numbers from 2000-4500rpms where I'd see little change in power and these numbers were always very consistent and within 0 to 3whp. I pay very little attention to random +/- 3 to 6whp spikes that last 100-500rpms.... of which some people will report as gains and/or losses. I know that that an increase or decrease in power that lasts a mere 100-500rpms isn't going to change the performance of the car.

I guess my feeling is if a mod's gains are so small that they could be attributed to Dynojet warm up, strap down torque, and such then the gain really isn't worth doing. IMO, consistency and power under the curve are key. Peak numbers are absolutely worthless.