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so my 06 came with the Bose system, and I'm tryin to add the SWI-RC, but my harness does not look like any of the G35 harnesses I've seen for this install. In fact, according to the instructions, I'm supposed to tap red, yellow, and green from harness, but there are two green wires in my harness. (Assuming I have the right harness). Which green wire to tap, solid or green and white?
or am I accessing the wrong harness?
so my 06 came with the Bose system, and I'm tryin to add the SWI-RC, but my harness does not look like any of the G35 harnesses I've seen for this install. In fact, according to the instructions, I'm supposed to tap red, yellow, and green from harness, but there are two green wires in my harness. (Assuming I have the right harness). Which green wire to tap, solid or green and white?
or am I accessing the wrong harness?
HUGE EDIT - NOT THE CORRECT HARNESS - my fault for browsing/replying on mobile.
See reply below.
Last edited by Wrathernaut; Dec 29, 2016 at 01:30 AM.
Quick question about the yellow wire. Am I tapping that and leaving it in the harness, and connecting to a ground wire, or cutting it from the harness and connecting to ground? I think I'm supposed to cut it from the harness, but want to make sure
Quick question about the yellow wire. Am I tapping that and leaving it in the harness, and connecting to a ground wire, or cutting it from the harness and connecting to ground? I think I'm supposed to cut it from the harness, but want to make sure
Sorry, huge backtrack here - my fault for viewing on mobile. THAT IS NOT THE M39 HARNESS. IF YOU CONNECT THAT YELLOW WIRE TO GROUND YOU'RE GOING TO BLOW FUSES!
The m39 harness looks like this. Your three wires are front and center of the photo.
The harness doesn't plug into anything with an aftermarket radio installed, so best option is to cut it and solder for the most reliable connection. It make the wired remote more consistent having that solder joint vs. crimp, since the wired remote works based on varying the resistance, and having a bad connection varies the resistance as well.
The Gods were smiling on me yesterday! I had to stop working on this so never got around to cutting into that harness!! WHEW!!! Thanks for the edit, now I'll try and find the correct harness, as this is the only part of my install left.
Hello all. I've finally decided to go through with this, and replace the stock HU with an aftermarket unit in my '06 MT coupe.
One thing that I'm attempting is to run my usb interface cables to the cubby underneath the center console armrest, next to the auxiliary power jack. I don't want them dangling out from the side of the console, glovebox, or cupholder. I've seen this done in other places, but I'm not able to see how to remove the actual top-half of the console to get access to the cubby. I can lift it up enough to access 2 molex plugs, but that's as far as I can get.
Is there anyone here who can give me some advice on removing the center console? This is driving me batty! Thanks.
The rear portion is held captive by 3 screws securing the armrest hinge. Remove 2 molex plugs in addition to these 3 screws, and the console top-half pops right out. You may need to fiddle with your parking brake handle to pull console out.
Hello all. I've finally decided to go through with this, and replace the stock HU with an aftermarket unit in my '06 MT coupe.
One thing that I'm attempting is to run my usb interface cables to the cubby underneath the center console armrest, next to the auxiliary power jack. I don't want them dangling out from the side of the console, glovebox, or cupholder. I've seen this done in other places, but I'm not able to see how to remove the actual top-half of the console to get access to the cubby. I can lift it up enough to access 2 molex plugs, but that's as far as I can get.
Is there anyone here who can give me some advice on removing the center console? This is driving me batty! Thanks.
To get the screws that hold the tray under the armrest out so that you can make a channel for the wires, you'll need to completely remove the center console. There's the two screws at the back sides of the center console that have to be removed, you have to move the front seats forward to access them. With those side screws and the screws that hold the hinge in place removed, the whole thing should come out.
Thanks to Wrathernaut and all the forum contributors. My install is complete, and everything is working as advertised.
I would like to add an item to the shopping list, if there might be some interest. These items allow you to literally "tap" into existing wire harness without having to cut/splice. Not only a reliable connection, but super fast to install. A little expensive for what you get, but they're worth the price in my opinion.
Thanks to Wrathernaut and all the forum contributors. My install is complete, and everything is working as advertised.
I would like to add an item to the shopping list, if there might be some interest. These items allow you to literally "tap" into existing wire harness without having to cut/splice. Not only a reliable connection, but super fast to install. A little expensive for what you get, but they're worth the price in my opinion.
I hate those things, since they're used wrong 99% of the time. Their only legitimate use is when you need to TAP a signal that is going to be "listened" to while keeping the original circuit intact - or if the space you're trying to access is unfeasible for getting a soldering pen into. They often damage the wire they're tapping into, breaking a strand or two of the wiring inside the jacket, and they damage the jacket 100% of the time. You can spend $10 for 5 of them, or you can get a soldering pen and enough solder to do a dozen installs for $15. Wrap the soldered joint in electrical tape (or be a hero and use heatshrink) and you know you've got a real solid connection.
The only wires they'd even be close to useful on is the steering wheel wires, since everything else is matching bare wires on the harnesses with zero reason for taps. The steering wheel wires are the ones that you want the most reliable connection on. Even a "solid" crimp connection is liable to give varying resistance, and the entire steering wheel remote works through varying the resistance along those circuits. Having an unstable connection will make your steering wheel controls unresponsive or fail completely. They're good enough most of the time, but I definitely won't endorse them.
I hate those things, since they're used wrong 99% of the time. Their only legitimate use is when you need to TAP a signal that is going to be "listened" to while keeping the original circuit intact - or if the space you're trying to access is unfeasible for getting a soldering pen into. They often damage the wire they're tapping into, breaking a strand or two of the wiring inside the jacket, and they damage the jacket 100% of the time. You can spend $10 for 5 of them, or you can get a soldering pen and enough solder to do a dozen installs for $15. Wrap the soldered joint in electrical tape (or be a hero and use heatshrink) and you know you've got a real solid connection.
The only wires they'd even be close to useful on is the steering wheel wires, since everything else is matching bare wires on the harnesses with zero reason for taps. The steering wheel wires are the ones that you want the most reliable connection on. Even a "solid" crimp connection is liable to give varying resistance, and the entire steering wheel remote works through varying the resistance along those circuits. Having an unstable connection will make your steering wheel controls unresponsive or fail completely. They're good enough most of the time, but I definitely won't endorse them.
You're the expert here, and you make valid points. I've had good luck with these in the past, and used them in this installation without a problem. Just thought others might like the alternative.
I'm looking to replace my head unit in 06 coupe with bose... do I need one with 6 channel outputs to keep all the stock bose speakers working? thanks guys!
I'm looking to replace my head unit in 06 coupe with bose... do I need one with 6 channel outputs to keep all the stock bose speakers working? thanks guys!
To keep all of them working, yes, but honestly, you'll be fine with just the front doors and rear deck going. You'll be fine with four channels for that.
I'm looking to replace my head unit in 06 coupe with bose... do I need one with 6 channel outputs to keep all the stock bose speakers working? thanks guys!
