I'm NOT happy with my new intakes !!

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  #31  
Old 12-22-2009, 10:33 AM
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I really wanted the Injen long tube CAI's but was extremely put off by hydrolock concerns and taking off the bumper to change my air filters so I just ordered the R2C's.
 
  #32  
Old 12-22-2009, 07:28 PM
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pfffft.....

about 8-10 bolts across the bottom front. four pushpins in the fender liner....4 upper screws.....4-6 pushpins up top and its off. 15 minutes with my hitachi battery gun. lol

as far as hydrolock goes, you have to submerge the entire tube in solid standing water to get the vacuum of the motor to pull up enough moisture to lock it. and the filters are actually 95% enclosed between the fender liner/bumper/headlight assembly/fender/radiator shroud/radiator.

i clean my filters every 6k miles with cleaner and reoil kit.

Get the INJENS! you will absolutely love them
a cheap cell phone 5-80mph
 

Last edited by IvoryPearl07G; 12-22-2009 at 07:35 PM.
  #33  
Old 12-23-2009, 02:33 AM
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I would always go with a brand i know like the Injen, but anyways R2C are pretty good, and give the car some time to re-learn and get used to the new mod, beside the best way is to do a reset by this way:


ECU Resetting Procedures

Timing is extremely critical. If it is NOT DONE within the specify time, the ECU will not reset and the Check Engine Light (CEL) will continue to remain ON.

Operations Procedures

1. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
2. Repeat the following steps (2a and 2b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.
2a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD).
2b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
3. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 10 seconds until the CEL starts blinking.
4. Fully release the accelerator pedal (while the CEL is still blinking)
5. Wait about 10 second.
6. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for more than 10 seconds.
7. Fully release the accelerator pedal (The CEL light will continue to blink).
8. Turn ignition switch to “OFF” position and now you can start the car. The CEL light should be gone.
If the CEL light continues to remain ON, repeat the above steps. Timing is EXTREMELY critical to resetting the ECU.

*Credit to whoever posted this originally. TIMING IS VERY IMPORTANT


After i installed my Injen CAI i lost mid-range hp/tq, but after i did reset my ECU on the way above i felt the car re-gained it's lost mid-range power, i ran my car on a dyno to see what's been changed, anyways i hope this help.
Oh btw, i did drill the fake mesh in the bumper for my Injen CAI, i felt a slightly better response, since those filters are sitting in a place which look like a sealed box, so i had to make holes to make outside air to be suck/pushed in while driving, and there is no worry about hydrolock even in heavy rain or when washing the car.
 
  #34  
Old 12-23-2009, 03:09 AM
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Originally Posted by stardust
maybe if you wrote in english instead of whatever that g-funk stupid abbreviated word crap is, you would get more help. Not everyone speaks g-funk
 
  #35  
Old 12-23-2009, 12:52 PM
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G35s_Dude . . thank you very much, already familiar with that pedal method !
anyway . . i took them off n i got my stock intakes back.

i'll let you know about ma numbers once i do some acceleration tests .

thank u all . .
 
  #36  
Old 12-23-2009, 03:05 PM
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Btw, how long did you have them on your car? I got really disappointed when i changed my JWT intake to Injen CAI, i lost a lot of power that i was about to take them off and put the JWT back, but after i gave them sometime and did ECU rest (method above) the car started to get better and better each day, now there is no way i would ever think of changing the Injen CAI, even though it's really PITA installing them, and i don't even feel like cleaning the filters, hard to take of since i made the clamps face the inside of the car which is even harder to get to them.

*PITA = pain in the @$$.
 
  #37  
Old 12-23-2009, 04:30 PM
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somethin like a month or so . .
BTW , yours are long tubes, right ?
 

Last edited by Glover997; 12-23-2009 at 04:41 PM.
  #38  
Old 12-23-2009, 04:42 PM
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I put stickers on my car and I saw no horsepower gains. WTF????????????

The guy who sold me the stickers said at least a 10WHP gain. I see nothing. Now I am regretting my $300 investment.















-__-
 
  #39  
Old 12-23-2009, 05:06 PM
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those stickers only work on civics... duh jk
 
  #40  
Old 12-24-2009, 01:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Glover997
somethin like a month or so . .
BTW , yours are long tubes, right ?
Yes they are.
 
  #41  
Old 01-05-2010, 09:24 AM
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Originally Posted by G35s-Dude
I would always go with a brand i know like the Injen, but anyways R2C are pretty good, and give the car some time to re-learn and get used to the new mod, beside the best way is to do a reset by this way:


ECU Resetting Procedures

Timing is extremely critical. If it is NOT DONE within the specify time, the ECU will not reset and the Check Engine Light (CEL) will continue to remain ON.

Operations Procedures

1. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
2. Repeat the following steps (2a and 2b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.
2a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD).
2b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
3. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 10 seconds until the CEL starts blinking.
4. Fully release the accelerator pedal (while the CEL is still blinking)
5. Wait about 10 second.
6. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for more than 10 seconds.
7. Fully release the accelerator pedal (The CEL light will continue to blink).
8. Turn ignition switch to “OFF” position and now you can start the car. The CEL light should be gone.
If the CEL light continues to remain ON, repeat the above steps. Timing is EXTREMELY critical to resetting the ECU.

*Credit to whoever posted this originally. TIMING IS VERY IMPORTANT


After i installed my Injen CAI i lost mid-range hp/tq, but after i did reset my ECU on the way above i felt the car re-gained it's lost mid-range power, i ran my car on a dyno to see what's been changed, anyways i hope this help.
Oh btw, i did drill the fake mesh in the bumper for my Injen CAI, i felt a slightly better response, since those filters are sitting in a place which look like a sealed box, so i had to make holes to make outside air to be suck/pushed in while driving, and there is no worry about hydrolock even in heavy rain or when washing the car.

What do you do whe the light stops blinking between steps 4-5. I used a stop watch and everytime the light stopped blinking before I reached 10 sec's.. spent 30 mins trying to do this.. ARRR LOL
 
  #42  
Old 01-05-2010, 09:40 AM
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Ha ha ha ha.. Seriously? A stopwatch? You have to be kidding.

Seriouly you just have to hit VTEC !!!!!!
 
  #43  
Old 01-05-2010, 09:43 AM
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I wish I was, I thought I was counting to fast-slow, so I used my phones watch, Stupid I know but what the hell.. I still couldnt get it right. Funny thing is I did this 3 times on my 6th gen Max and never had a issue.. Maybe I cant count LOL. But seriously why the heck does the light stop blinking before I get to 10???
 
  #44  
Old 01-06-2010, 10:15 AM
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lol

^when the light stops blinking, you have set the ecu to relearn the Idle Air Volume. You start the car and let it idle for 20-30 seconds and the car will reset its values to get the idle back into a satisfactory condition.

To reset the ecu, you have to let off of the gas pedal before it stops blinking. That puts it into the obd2 diagnostic mode that blinks the trouble codes to you. To then reset/erase it, you hold the gas pedal back down again for 10seconds and start the car.

IDLE AIR VOLUME LEARNING


DTC MEMORY RESET/ERASE
 
  #45  
Old 01-06-2010, 10:30 AM
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Originally Posted by IvoryPearl07G
lol

^when the light stops blinking, you have set the ecu to relearn the Idle Air Volume. You start the car and let it idle for 20-30 seconds and the car will reset its values to get the idle back into a satisfactory condition.

To reset the ecu, you have to let off of the gas pedal before it stops blinking. That puts it into the obd2 diagnostic mode that blinks the trouble codes to you. To then reset/erase it, you hold the gas pedal back down again for 10seconds and start the car.

IDLE AIR VOLUME LEARNING


DTC MEMORY RESET/ERASE

OK thanx, But I I do let off the pedal while it is still blinking, it stops here.. Between 4-5?

4. Fully release the accelerator pedal (while the CEL is still blinking)
5. Wait about 10 second.( Light stops blinking before I get to 10)
So needless to say I never get here.

6. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for more than 10 seconds.
7. Fully release the accelerator pedal (The CEL light will continue to blink).
8. Turn ignition switch to “OFF” position and now you can start the car. The CEL light should be gone.

Even if I try shorting the time so the light is blinking when a step on the pedal ,the second a push the pedal down it stops anyway.. :/

I must be missing something.
 


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