I'm NOT happy with my new intakes !!
#46
Registered User
iTrader: (9)
It's been several years since i've done this, so forgive me for asking... why not continue on with step 6? Perhaps the wait for 10 seconds is to give enough time for the light to stop blinking?
Also, your engine is off, right? (Back in the day, people got it wrong thinking "Ignition ON" meant engine is on, when it shouldn't).
Probably doesn't help you though.
Also, your engine is off, right? (Back in the day, people got it wrong thinking "Ignition ON" meant engine is on, when it shouldn't).
Probably doesn't help you though.
#47
Yea the car is off, Just ignition on( Engine not running) I have tried to go all the way to the end but the light never starts blinking again. Step 7 says ( Light continues blinking) So it should be blink through 5-6-7? Right. Mine stops during 4.. I cant believe I cant get this!! Did this a number of times of my 04 Max, and dont remember it being this hard( Took me 10 mins then).
#48
ok you need to throw those steps that where typed out the window
follow the procedure in the lower image i posted. my best advice for your issue is when it starts to blink let off the pedal immediately. that means you are in the diagnostic mode and the blinking IS the trouble code. go ahead and count the sets of flashes to ensure everything is good. flash...flash....flash pause means a 3. flash... flash...flash... flash pause means 4. they are four digit trouble codes. so a 0000 is no codes(0 is ten flashes by the way).
so to continue to the resetting/erasing procedure, hold the pedal down another ten seconds while it flashes out your trouble codes.
turn ignition to ON
-after 3 seconds hit the gas pedal and let off 5 times quickly
-after the last gas pedal hit wait 7 seconds and then hold the gas pedal down 10secs until it starts flashing your trouble code
-release the pedal
-counts your flashes and see if you have a four digit trouble code
-Hold the gas pedal down for ten seconds to clear the code out
follow the procedure in the lower image i posted. my best advice for your issue is when it starts to blink let off the pedal immediately. that means you are in the diagnostic mode and the blinking IS the trouble code. go ahead and count the sets of flashes to ensure everything is good. flash...flash....flash pause means a 3. flash... flash...flash... flash pause means 4. they are four digit trouble codes. so a 0000 is no codes(0 is ten flashes by the way).
so to continue to the resetting/erasing procedure, hold the pedal down another ten seconds while it flashes out your trouble codes.
turn ignition to ON
-after 3 seconds hit the gas pedal and let off 5 times quickly
-after the last gas pedal hit wait 7 seconds and then hold the gas pedal down 10secs until it starts flashing your trouble code
-release the pedal
-counts your flashes and see if you have a four digit trouble code
-Hold the gas pedal down for ten seconds to clear the code out
Last edited by IvoryPearl07G; 01-06-2010 at 11:10 AM.
#49
OK thanx, Question again you've been a ton of help.. After if flashs the codes will it just stop blinking, Or will it keep flashing the same code.. I have not counted the flashes but I know for sure it stops and the CEL is constant. If I press the pedal down during the flashes it stops also.
An is this how Ido the ECU reset. I'm having bogging/ sputtering problems with my Berks.
An is this how Ido the ECU reset. I'm having bogging/ sputtering problems with my Berks.
#50
It continues flashing the code or codes in order over and over. it should only stop and constantly light if
A: you held down the gas pedal 20 seconds after the seven seconds-that means its going to learn the idle air volume
B: there is an electrical type issue especially involving serious exhaust/intake components-it did this with me when my exhaust/intake camshaft positions sensor plugs were worn and sending intermittent signals.....it flashed five times then stayed on every time i tried to reset
A: you held down the gas pedal 20 seconds after the seven seconds-that means its going to learn the idle air volume
B: there is an electrical type issue especially involving serious exhaust/intake components-it did this with me when my exhaust/intake camshaft positions sensor plugs were worn and sending intermittent signals.....it flashed five times then stayed on every time i tried to reset
#51
HMMM I have no CEL on now. But I know 100% it stops.. I turn the car on wait 3 secs, hit the pedal 5 times wait seven seconds hold the pedal down for 10 secs and the light starts to blink, I then release the pedal and try to wait another 10 sec but everytime the light stops and stays on.. When I shut the car off an restart it the light is NOT on. I so FN confussed right now, I just may take it in and ask the dealer to scan it and or reset the ECU.
#52
im tellin ya it sounds like what mine was doing....would do just that. count the times it flashes, i bet its 5.
never did figure that out, i just knew it was a pretty apparent problem....i almost wanna go on a limb and say its catalytic converter related
because after all of that and me changing out my intake/exhaust camshaft position sensor plugs, the stuttering and powerloss cleared up....but now i am throwing a catalytic converter code.
never did figure that out, i just knew it was a pretty apparent problem....i almost wanna go on a limb and say its catalytic converter related
because after all of that and me changing out my intake/exhaust camshaft position sensor plugs, the stuttering and powerloss cleared up....but now i am throwing a catalytic converter code.
#53
I hope and dont hope it's 5. LOL. If it is I will have to go back to the place that did the install if's a O2 sensor issue. I can't go to the dealer casue they'll charge for it..I will check this tonight an let you know.. Man party of me hopes it's 5 so I can figure out why the car stumbles/sputters/ breaks up and then takes off under 3/4 to WOT.
#54
dang, thats what mine was doing and it would go so far as to stop running sometimes.
i remember reading when the first high flow cats came out that people had this problem and got rid of them. and it all comes down to the second o2 sensor reading to high/low and messing with the cam timing.
CRAP it is becoming clear for me. I found that my plugs on the camshaft position sensors had bad connections. that caused the car to spit and sputter trying to get the car to run right. in result my catalytic converters were going out from the unburnt fuel hitting the element and exploding. Now that they are defunct it just took it this long to throw the code lol.
i bet your issue is from the installation of the HFC's. the second o2 sensors need to be pulled out of the exhaust stream some.
i remember reading when the first high flow cats came out that people had this problem and got rid of them. and it all comes down to the second o2 sensor reading to high/low and messing with the cam timing.
CRAP it is becoming clear for me. I found that my plugs on the camshaft position sensors had bad connections. that caused the car to spit and sputter trying to get the car to run right. in result my catalytic converters were going out from the unburnt fuel hitting the element and exploding. Now that they are defunct it just took it this long to throw the code lol.
i bet your issue is from the installation of the HFC's. the second o2 sensors need to be pulled out of the exhaust stream some.
#58
#59