6.5 and 6x9 i believe

 

I'm almost positively positive that the front's are 6.5, rears could be 6.5 and rear deck is 6x9 (for sub)

 

Would it be safe to assume that to remove the panels to run wire you can just pull them off?

 

I don't get what you are asking but to remove the panels, yeah they should just pull out

 

Im sorry, I was unclear. Im going to run the power line in a few minutes. The panels on the interior passenger side of the cabin (kick panel, door trim piece) they should just pull off right? There are no screws or anything?

 

got the panels off no problem. they were a lot easier then i thought they would be. buuuuut I got stuck at the back seat lol. i pulled straight up on both sides but it just wouldnt budge. i felt like i was going to break it in half

 

Lol, really.. You don't have to take out the rear seat to run the cable underneath. Just tuck it on the side and with your fingers, push it under a bit.

 

Dont pull on the sides pull from the front of the back seats straight up

 

so finally got mine working. paid about 20 bucks for a high low converter with 2 sets of preouts. took a lot longer than i wouldve wished but for only 20 bucks more its not a problem and was easier to wire than wiring the rcas imo

 

I started and finished my install today lol. It took me about 3 hours from start to first test. This was my first experience with audio equipment and I must say I was very nervous splicing into the factory harness but to my relief everything still worked when I plugged it all back in lol.

I had pre-fabricated the box and run the power wire prior to the install so that made everything else go pretty smooth. This thread was my life saver so major thanks to the OP and whoever else answered my questions. Details and pics will be posted in the custom audio thread tomorrow sometime.

 

i was wondering if u guys could help me out with a few questions:

i'm going to be installing a jl sub + alpine amp in my 08 sedan soon. i've been trying to figure out the best way to install the amp without paying crazy amounts for custom length rca cables.. i plan to tap into the signal at the hu because i want to add in a line leveler control **** and then continue running the lines separately to the amp.


1) is it "worth" getting premium car audio rca's? (is there such thing as shielding for rcas?)
2) can i just use good 12 gauge speaker wire and make my own rca cables?
3) will i introduce delay/noise if i tap from the back of the car and run cable from the back (before bose amp)and then to the front for the control **** and then back (for my new alpine sub amp)?


thanks guys

 

Great write up, I registered to this forum because of this thread. I frequent www.svtperformance.com/forums and never really log on to other forums, however, this forum has some good resourceful information on it.

My sister has an 04 G35 coupe and I gave her two MTX 12''s with a brand new 300.1 Kicker amp. I used this thread all the way thru the install and it took me a few hours...very clean install for sure.

I just started off with removing all the trunk carpet and amp cover and located the correct harness with blue connector. I pulled back the electric tape and tapped into the (blue +) (pink -) wire with the T splice/connectors. Then I went and bought a "Y" figure RCA cable (2 female / 1 male) from Radioshack and removed the male side of the "Y" RCA and used the wiring to the female sides of the "Y" RCA and put one in the (+) and (-) in the factory wire harness. Then I went along and ran 8awg wire from the battery to the trunk. Yes I removed the panels and ran it under the seat and so forth and had it to where it was ready to be connected to the amp. I grounded it to the metal display that the amp is bolted up on. I placed that display with the factory amp on it to the studs that are coming from the base of the trunk and just tighten the nut on it...thats where I put the little ring terminal at as my ground, worked fine. Other than that, I ran speaker wire from the amp to the subs. Now my sister drives her g35 with those subs slam'n.
I didn't mess with the teal and purple wires which is the opposite side of the blue and pink so the the only thing that it would affect is if you would try to fade the sound from the left side to the right side...everyone listens to all their speakers and not just one side.

Took a couple hours and no problems whatsoever, everything works great and everyone is happy.

 

Hey i have a question, do i tap into the Remote wire? or can i jus remove it and the bose amp will still sense power from teh auto sense or whatever.

 

by tap we mean either use a T-tap plastic and metal piece OR (the smart way) strip back some of the plastic shielding - I'd say about half an inch worth - separate some of the copper wires put your remote wire in between and wrap it around the factory wire. and if you have access to a soldering iron and solder and KNOW how to use it, do it. then tape it with electrical tape.

 

No, tap into it with the T tap like what TroysG mentioned. Thats the method that I went with.