JL 450/4 or 300/4 for DLS Iridium 6.3?
#1
#4
lol
darrick what are you talking about?
Basically it looks like you're choosing between
a: 150w x 2, 75w x 2
b: 75 x 4
Since that particular set uses 2 separate crossovers (one for the mid, one shared between the midbass/tweet) then it actually might make sense to do the 300/4 instead of a 450/4 only because you want to keep the proportions right. I believe they do that because you typically lose the mid on a 3-way set due to the way the power is divided when the mid/tweet share a channel and the midbass has its own channel.
It wouldn't be good to give the mid twice as much power as the midbass/tweet or vice versa... though they could certainly handle the power just fine, the 450/4 wouldn't fit well with that particular setup.
So there you go. Make sure you have someone that really knows their stuff install/aim/tune those for you, it is very important with such a picky set.
darrick what are you talking about?
Basically it looks like you're choosing between
a: 150w x 2, 75w x 2
b: 75 x 4
Since that particular set uses 2 separate crossovers (one for the mid, one shared between the midbass/tweet) then it actually might make sense to do the 300/4 instead of a 450/4 only because you want to keep the proportions right. I believe they do that because you typically lose the mid on a 3-way set due to the way the power is divided when the mid/tweet share a channel and the midbass has its own channel.
It wouldn't be good to give the mid twice as much power as the midbass/tweet or vice versa... though they could certainly handle the power just fine, the 450/4 wouldn't fit well with that particular setup.
So there you go. Make sure you have someone that really knows their stuff install/aim/tune those for you, it is very important with such a picky set.
#5
![Confused2](https://g35driver.com/forums/images/smilies/confused2.gif)
Anyhow, the 300/4 will be fine, especially if you went with an active crossover, but I'm assuming you're going to be using the passives they come with. It doesn't hurt to have a little headroom so the 450/4 would be fine, however, you will need a 2nd amp if you want to power all the speakers off an amp, otherwise, it would be a waste buying just one amp.
It's the 3 way set, thus it has a midbass, midrange, and tweeter (2 drivers for each), thus 6 channels in total that will be needed. Either get a 6 channel amp (yes there are some, a/d/s/ even made an 8 channel) or buy one 4 channel and one 2 channel, or buy two 4 channels and bridge the midbass on one of the 4 channels.
#6
lol
darrick what are you talking about?
Basically it looks like you're choosing between
a: 150w x 2, 75w x 2
b: 75 x 4
Since that particular set uses 2 separate crossovers (one for the mid, one shared between the midbass/tweet) then it actually might make sense to do the 300/4 instead of a 450/4 only because you want to keep the proportions right. I believe they do that because you typically lose the mid on a 3-way set due to the way the power is divided when the mid/tweet share a channel and the midbass has its own channel.
It wouldn't be good to give the mid twice as much power as the midbass/tweet or vice versa... though they could certainly handle the power just fine, the 450/4 wouldn't fit well with that particular setup.
So there you go. Make sure you have someone that really knows their stuff install/aim/tune those for you, it is very important with such a picky set.
darrick what are you talking about?
Basically it looks like you're choosing between
a: 150w x 2, 75w x 2
b: 75 x 4
Since that particular set uses 2 separate crossovers (one for the mid, one shared between the midbass/tweet) then it actually might make sense to do the 300/4 instead of a 450/4 only because you want to keep the proportions right. I believe they do that because you typically lose the mid on a 3-way set due to the way the power is divided when the mid/tweet share a channel and the midbass has its own channel.
It wouldn't be good to give the mid twice as much power as the midbass/tweet or vice versa... though they could certainly handle the power just fine, the 450/4 wouldn't fit well with that particular setup.
So there you go. Make sure you have someone that really knows their stuff install/aim/tune those for you, it is very important with such a picky set.
![Bowrofl](https://g35driver.com/forums/images/smilies/bowrofl.gif)
#7
![Confused2](https://g35driver.com/forums/images/smilies/confused2.gif)
Anyhow, the 300/4 will be fine, especially if you went with an active crossover, but I'm assuming you're going to be using the passives they come with. It doesn't hurt to have a little headroom so the 450/4 would be fine, however, you will need a 2nd amp if you want to power all the speakers off an amp, otherwise, it would be a waste buying just one amp.
It's the 3 way set, thus it has a midbass, midrange, and tweeter (2 drivers for each), thus 6 channels in total that will be needed. Either get a 6 channel amp (yes there are some, a/d/s/ even made an 8 channel) or buy one 4 channel and one 2 channel, or buy two 4 channels and bridge the midbass on one of the 4 channels.
With the first scenario, you'd end up with really goofy power distribution since the midbass and tweeter are on the same crossover, and the midrange is on its own. Probably wouldn't be the best idea.
I used to run a 3-way setup similar to this one (albeit with Vifa tweets and Morel 3" mids, Morel 8" midbasses) and I went with a 300/2 for the midbasses, 300/4 for the mids/tweets, all active crossovers.
You wouldn't be able to do an active XO setup with the 300/4 either, since (again), not enough channels. I've heard a 2-way set of the DLS before and from what people have told me about the other sets is that there's no reason in trying to replace what these guys have engineered so well.
All that to say, either go with the 300/4 to use the supplied passive crossovers, or if you are crazy, pick up a 300/4 and 300/2 and go with all active crossovers. Have fun tuning that
![Biggthumpup](https://g35driver.com/forums/images/smilies/biggthumpup.gif)
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#8
Ah, I forgot that you can't bridge the JL 4 channel amps due to channels 3 and 4 having different power outputs. That's kinda stupid, but kinda beneficial. Personally I wouldn't want it, but it makes sense since the tweeters don't need much power.
However, if the OP went another route and decided to get two 4 channel amps, it would work, and that was the thought process I was taking. I personally wouldn't, unless the 4 channel is cheaper than the 2 channel.
However, if the OP went another route and decided to get two 4 channel amps, it would work, and that was the thought process I was taking. I personally wouldn't, unless the 4 channel is cheaper than the 2 channel.
#9
Ah, I forgot that you can't bridge the JL 4 channel amps due to channels 3 and 4 having different power outputs. That's kinda stupid, but kinda beneficial. Personally I wouldn't want it, but it makes sense since the tweeters don't need much power.
However, if the OP went another route and decided to get two 4 channel amps, it would work, and that was the thought process I was taking. I personally wouldn't, unless the 4 channel is cheaper than the 2 channel.
However, if the OP went another route and decided to get two 4 channel amps, it would work, and that was the thought process I was taking. I personally wouldn't, unless the 4 channel is cheaper than the 2 channel.
![Biggthumpup](https://g35driver.com/forums/images/smilies/biggthumpup.gif)
This also works well on 2-way setups, putting more power on the mids than the tweets.
Going with a pair of 4 channel amps (8 channels) would mean you would have to bridge one of them, essentially giving you a 4 channel amp and a 2 channel amp-- why not just buy a 2 channel to begin with?
In the case of the JL amps, the 300/2 ends up being a lot cheaper than the 300/4, which is nice.
#10
I wouldn't call the 450/4 "kinda stupid" -- it's intended for people powering fronts and rears with one amp, giving the fronts twice as much power as the rears. (Good idea.) ![Biggthumpup](https://g35driver.com/forums/images/smilies/biggthumpup.gif)
This also works well on 2-way setups, putting more power on the mids than the tweets.
Going with a pair of 4 channel amps (8 channels) would mean you would have to bridge one of them, essentially giving you a 4 channel amp and a 2 channel amp-- why not just buy a 2 channel to begin with?
In the case of the JL amps, the 300/2 ends up being a lot cheaper than the 300/4, which is nice.
![Biggthumpup](https://g35driver.com/forums/images/smilies/biggthumpup.gif)
This also works well on 2-way setups, putting more power on the mids than the tweets.
Going with a pair of 4 channel amps (8 channels) would mean you would have to bridge one of them, essentially giving you a 4 channel amp and a 2 channel amp-- why not just buy a 2 channel to begin with?
In the case of the JL amps, the 300/2 ends up being a lot cheaper than the 300/4, which is nice.
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12-06-2015 03:11 PM