Any estimate on how much add weight total this project added to the car?

 

extremely little

 

.....

 

For all you sedan owners, please check the below thread from mr_ecktid. He had some trouble with foam leaking into his tail lights.

https://g35driver.com/forums/g35-sedan-v35-2003-06/91903-when-diy-goes-wrong.html

 

I did B Quiet Ultimate in my back seat and trunk over the weekend. I was really liberal on the wheel wells and that really paid off. Sitting in the back on wornout Turanza's was actually so bad for tire noise that is was uncomfortable...not anymore. Major improvement. Now I can hear the wind noise that mirrors and A pillar create. This still is no lexus..or even Passat.

 

This is just a great discussion and I am bumping it for others. I am gonna be doing my car soon.

 

Planning on performing the sound deadening mod before my audio upgrade. With the pannels off, I might as well run my cables. Thanks for taking the time for this great write up.

 

For aftermarket speakers, is it advised to replace stock wires to hi's and mids or are factory wires good enough?

 

I used the oem wires for my system and the quality is just fine. I am sure there is someone out there that can comment on the benefit of aftermarket wires.

 

It depends on how much power you are running through them. I have a JL 450/4 (150x2 and 75x2) that is running my front mid-bass and tweets. In other words, 150 watts is going to each mid bass and 75 to each tweeter. I wouldn't trust the stock wires for that much power.

50 watts to each speaker should be fine through the stock wire, however.

 

Thanks, I have a JL 4 channel amp that I will be using to power my cdt hd 6.5 speakers so I'll run some new cables. Thanks for the info. I try to read all the forums but really never found anything about rewiring for aftermarket speakers.

 

I also wanted to add that I have used the "expanding" foam in the past with success and no issues. However, this stuff is not water soluble and is near impossible to "get off". It is imperative to have some kind of protection (tarp, painters floor protection, plastic, etc.) below the areas your treating. The expanding foam will Oooze out holes before it dries. I have had no issues with warping. It is messier than non-expanding foams. It might work a little better in areas that may see moisture/water. Like the G35 sedans rear taillight areas.

Just my 2 cents. Use carefully at your own risk.

 

I do not think there is a need to upgrade the factory wires. Unless your going to be running something like 1000+w to your components there is no need. It is a MAJOR PITA to do. I am pretty sure the distance between the amp and the speakers is the biggest factor when doing something like this not the wattage going through the wire.

.02

 

With all the eDead I used I am guessing around 12-18 lbs

 

I think the threshold of upgrading the factory wires is not going to be 1000 watts, more along the lines of 100-150 watts. So, if you are running a JL 300/4, which provides 75 watts to each speaker, you should be more than fine. However, if you are running something larger (as in my example, the 450/4, which provides 2 channels of 150 watts each, and two channels of 75 watts), you would probably want to run new speaker wire.

It is a pain in the *** to run new wire to the front doors; but it is certainly do able. I did it, and it was a pain, but nothing you can't do. Best way is to completely remove the doors, that way you have better access to the area where the wire is going to leave the main body of the car and enter in the doors. Whether you run it through new holes you cut, or try and run it through the existing look, removing the doors makes it much easier.

Dave