Navone says tap LOC *after* Bose amp
#1
Navone says tap LOC *after* Bose amp
Hello William,
Yes. The NE-774V is the correct interface for your G35... However, you should tap into the stock wiring AFTER the Bose power amplifier... The difference in sound quality is incredible... If you doubt this, just try one channel each way... Do the left front channel pre-Bose amp, and the right front channel after the Bose power amp (i.e. at the + and - speaker terminals of the factory speakers).... Then use the deck's balance control to check the audio quality.... In audio, nothing beats a high signal level, with a low source impedance....
http://www.davidnavone.com/adaptor_products.htm
Thanks.
Dave
David Navone
Navone Engineering, Inc.
4119 Coronado Avenue, Suite 4
Stockton, CA 95204-2336
Phone Toll Free 800-669-6139
Phone 209-465-6139
FAX 209-465-3059
www.davidnavone.com
e-Mail: dnavone@davidnavone.com
Yes. The NE-774V is the correct interface for your G35... However, you should tap into the stock wiring AFTER the Bose power amplifier... The difference in sound quality is incredible... If you doubt this, just try one channel each way... Do the left front channel pre-Bose amp, and the right front channel after the Bose power amp (i.e. at the + and - speaker terminals of the factory speakers).... Then use the deck's balance control to check the audio quality.... In audio, nothing beats a high signal level, with a low source impedance....
http://www.davidnavone.com/adaptor_products.htm
Thanks.
Dave
David Navone
Navone Engineering, Inc.
4119 Coronado Avenue, Suite 4
Stockton, CA 95204-2336
Phone Toll Free 800-669-6139
Phone 209-465-6139
FAX 209-465-3059
www.davidnavone.com
e-Mail: dnavone@davidnavone.com
#3
I've spoken with Mr. Navone on several occasions. I find him to be convinced of how smart he is, and a poor listener. His advice has failed me on several occasions, where he has been just plain wrong. He's good at self-promo though.
It's a total BS test unless you use an o-scope to match levels. Listener studies show that if you A/B two sound sources, and one is a hair louder than the other - less than 3dB, so not discernable to the human ear as a VOLUME difference, but audible as a tonal difference - we will tend to pick the louder one as the better-sounding one if we don't hear heinous differences in the louder one.
That's why A/B listening in sales showrooms is so difficult - if you don't have a complex calibrated switching system, small sensitivity differences will sound like tonal differences that they really aren't.
Sounds to mee like he's commenting more on how his product works than on the better signal to grab.
It's a total BS test unless you use an o-scope to match levels. Listener studies show that if you A/B two sound sources, and one is a hair louder than the other - less than 3dB, so not discernable to the human ear as a VOLUME difference, but audible as a tonal difference - we will tend to pick the louder one as the better-sounding one if we don't hear heinous differences in the louder one.
That's why A/B listening in sales showrooms is so difficult - if you don't have a complex calibrated switching system, small sensitivity differences will sound like tonal differences that they really aren't.
Sounds to mee like he's commenting more on how his product works than on the better signal to grab.
#5
I am the farthest thing from an expert, but...
Seeing as the product description is
"connect the speaker level outputs of a factory deck into the pre-amp level inputs of an aftermarket equalizer, electronic crossover, or power amplifier"
Connecting after the bose amp is the only thing that makes sense. The board here seemed to say that before the amp is best, so I tried that first. The signal was so quiet as to be inaudible without cranking up the gain to max levels. After the bose amp worked like a charm.
I'm not saying the product is the best, I can't really comment on the sound quality (haven't completed my setup yet), I'm just relaying my experience in getting it to work.
Seeing as the product description is
"connect the speaker level outputs of a factory deck into the pre-amp level inputs of an aftermarket equalizer, electronic crossover, or power amplifier"
Connecting after the bose amp is the only thing that makes sense. The board here seemed to say that before the amp is best, so I tried that first. The signal was so quiet as to be inaudible without cranking up the gain to max levels. After the bose amp worked like a charm.
I'm not saying the product is the best, I can't really comment on the sound quality (haven't completed my setup yet), I'm just relaying my experience in getting it to work.
#6
response from Navone
I asked him about the Bose equalization within the stock amp and his response:
Hello William,
Yes, I hear this everyday....but noises (hiss, alternator whine, brake light pops, etc.) appear when the signal level is low... This is because you have to make the aftermarket amplifier(s) more sensitive.... Not a good situation... If you're worried about the xover in the power amp, you can sum the outputs of the NE-774V... This means that you can use a simple RCA Y-Cord (splitter) from Radio Shack and add a Mid-Range to a Tweeter output for a full range output... This is the way most successful installs are done... You could certainly try it both ways (Pre-Bose Amp, and After-Bose Amp)... and then report to the G35 Owners Forum with your results... It won't cost you anything to try it both ways.... eh?
Thanks.
Dave
Yes, I hear this everyday....but noises (hiss, alternator whine, brake light pops, etc.) appear when the signal level is low... This is because you have to make the aftermarket amplifier(s) more sensitive.... Not a good situation... If you're worried about the xover in the power amp, you can sum the outputs of the NE-774V... This means that you can use a simple RCA Y-Cord (splitter) from Radio Shack and add a Mid-Range to a Tweeter output for a full range output... This is the way most successful installs are done... You could certainly try it both ways (Pre-Bose Amp, and After-Bose Amp)... and then report to the G35 Owners Forum with your results... It won't cost you anything to try it both ways.... eh?
Thanks.
Dave
#7
Originally Posted by phof
I am the farthest thing from an expert, but...
Seeing as the product description is
"connect the speaker level outputs of a factory deck into the pre-amp level inputs of an aftermarket equalizer, electronic crossover, or power amplifier"
Connecting after the bose amp is the only thing that makes sense. The board here seemed to say that before the amp is best, so I tried that first. The signal was so quiet as to be inaudible without cranking up the gain to max levels. After the bose amp worked like a charm.
I'm not saying the product is the best, I can't really comment on the sound quality (haven't completed my setup yet), I'm just relaying my experience in getting it to work.
Seeing as the product description is
"connect the speaker level outputs of a factory deck into the pre-amp level inputs of an aftermarket equalizer, electronic crossover, or power amplifier"
Connecting after the bose amp is the only thing that makes sense. The board here seemed to say that before the amp is best, so I tried that first. The signal was so quiet as to be inaudible without cranking up the gain to max levels. After the bose amp worked like a charm.
I'm not saying the product is the best, I can't really comment on the sound quality (haven't completed my setup yet), I'm just relaying my experience in getting it to work.
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#8
#9
Originally Posted by Moog
I asked him about the Bose equalization within the stock amp and his response:
He is right that if your signal level is too low and your gain is too high noise is the common result.
However, if the signal IS high enough, it's not an issue. I haven't measured this signal, but I know that passive balanced to single ended converters like the Navone piece I think you are referring to essentally lose 1/2 the amplitude of the balanced signal. I know that SOundgate makes an active adapter called the LOCB.2 that has a preamp in it to step up the signal level. I haven't tried it in that car though.
If any PDX owner wants to let me test again (
![Wink](https://g35driver.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
#10
Originally Posted by opimax
I have a cleansweep, overkill with the flat signal from the Bose. Something like a Phoenix Gold's new piece sld 44 should be good. It will take the signal before the amp and boost it to 4-8 volts which is good for most amps.
Mark
Mark
#12
Their website dose not specify, but if the inputs on the amp do not accept balanced signals and instead expect single-ended, that would have created problems. The amp itself has an input sensitivity of 150 mVolt - 7.0V. I doubt the voltage on the lines coming from the stock HU are anywhere near 150mV (I expect they are higher).
#13
I think I saw a 2 volt spike at high volume on the the LEDs but is is not a real good scale. It has LEDs for .2, 2, and 8 volts. This was reached with input gains turned up so I would guess it really is at the .1 level or maybe lower so I would have to dissagree w/Amthar. See this manual for my confusion, sorry. Mark
ftp://208.187.38.55/Phoenix_Gold/Man...EQ/EQ215ix.pdf
ftp://208.187.38.55/Phoenix_Gold/Man...EQ/EQ215ix.pdf
Last edited by opimax; 09-16-2005 at 07:35 PM.
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