I'm looking at doing a full JL system. JL 500/5, JL ZR components and either a W3 or W6 sub. I"m only putting in front components, no rear speakers. The 500/5 is setup to bi-amp with 100W for the midrange, and 25W for the tweets. Then 250W for the sub. It might be underpowering a W6 just a bit, but not the W3.

I kind of doubt that it makes that huge a difference in a car audio environment, but that amp seems just perfect for this setup. And if I have the option, then why not? Otherwise I would need two amps or bridge two channels to power the sub.

Any thoughts?

 

I like the idea of a seperate class D amp for the sub, especially if you go the 10w6 route. I don't play my music extra bassy, nor I do play a lot of rap or other music that requires heavy thump, but I do like my bass to be nice and tight, and not strain the amp, so I went with a seperate amp for my sub.

I also have the rear speakers turned way down (and removed the rear 6x9's completely) but I've listened to it without any rear fill at all, and I like it better with some rear fill. It's all personal choice, thought.

See my sig for my setup and feel free to ask any questions.

Dave

 

I've read couple post that ppl did bi-amp their components speakers, I wont go out of my way to do it but since you are already have the amp channels to do it, so "why not", eventho I think the 500/5 are intend to use 100 for front and 25 for rear, only thing I can think of this setup is the 25 watts might not be enough for the tweeters.

 

When you bi-amp your components, you get better transient response from your midbass driver (no passive crossover components in the way electrically), you lower the distortion coming out of your tweeter, you allow yourself to get the amplitude just right at your ear between the tweeters and the mids (even though adjusting this really requires an RTA).

If you use the right proccessor or HU you even have the chance to time correct for various path length from your ears to the tweeters.

But with all that said, you're not using front comps that I think are good enough to make it worth it. I applaud your lack of rear speakers.

I would seriously consider upgrading to Morel, Dynaudio, DLS, Seas, or even rainbow. JL's front comps just aren't the class of the field. Focal and Quart Q and Boston's top speaks are not my bag but I tink they are better than JL comps.

Also, there are studies that indicate that bi-amping should really have equal wattage on the mids and the tweets - especially with amps like the JL that have no headroom. Headroom is the temporary ability to outperform your constant power output, and it is lacking in fully regulated amps.

SOI guess what I'm saying is that I would bi-amp, but with different gear. I don't think the JL Slash amps are the best sounding ever, they are a bit harsh and grainy in the highs compared to a Zapco or a Genesis or a DLS, but if you were sticking with them, a 300/4 and a 500/1 would be the ticket - or even a 250/1 to be at the same power.

Alternaltely, at my store we would probably do that with a DLS A8 on the front comps and a DLS amp on the subs, OR the A7 50x4 and 250 x 1 on the whole thing.

 

So with bi-amping, do you eliminate the passive crossover that comes with the components, and just use the one on the amp?

Also, I can't find a ton of information on the other brands you listed. There is a Dynaudio dealer around here, but I can't find a good site for DLS. At least not one that lists dealers.

 

www.dlsamerica.com

www.morelhifi.com

Where are you?

Technically, you CAN "bi-amp" your components just by using two amps on them and still using passive xovers. But in the car audio realm, "bi-amping" almost ALWAYS means eliminating the passives entirely and using active or electronic crossovers. Most passive xover boxes don't even allow bi-amp inputs.

It's unfortunate but true tha it's harder to find the best speakers than it is the most popular speakers.

 

Thanks for the links.

Austin, TX.

In the G with the premium system, is there separate speaker wire running to the tweet and mid? Or is there just one wire and it splits in the door?

 

Hehe...splits in the door as I recall.

 

Yes, thats correct, there is a cheap capacitor based crossover in the door wires.

Dave

 

Do they split in the door itself, or before the Molex plug?

Just thinking how best to run the wires in this setup. I've read the posts on drilling through the Molex plugs. Doesn't sound like fun. And i doubt most installers are going to take the time to figure out a better way. They will just use the existing wire and place a crossover in the door itself. Me personally, I'm okay with using existing wire, but if it splits then that is not an option most likely.

Any other suggestions on running wire in this setup? Can you take the door off? =)

 

Splits in the door. I have the crossover for my front components in the door itself. I used the stock wire, because I was lazy. One day, when I wire up my carPC that I am building, I will probably run new speaker wire for the fronts.

Dave

 

Where can you order DLS equipment and which line of 6.5 comps do you recommend? Also how much would you expect to pay for said components and the A7 amp?

I found one dealer that handles Dynaudio and Diamond, but no DLS in Austin.

The DLS spec sheet on the comps have the tweeters handling a lower power rating than the midrange. But you still recommend bi-amping with equal wattage?

 

The UP6 are the hot ticket for the G when using the OEM tweeter locations... the UR6 and Iridium tweeters have large rear chambers and they won't fit or even come close.


I do... but I don't neccesarily think that you need to bi-amp at the max power rating of the driver. (Remember that an amp can produce more than its rated power... the amp is spec'd to provide that much power only at the rated % of distortion. It can give you more than that, just with more distortion. That's one reason you can blow a 100W speaker with a 75W amp - because it ccan give you more than 100W, just with higher distortion than it says on the box.)

I do recommend bi-amping with equal wattage (unless you are using horns like ID underdash...) because in the moments that a tweeter needs more power, it sounds really bad if the amp is clipping instead. Clipping blows tweeters faster than anything. 25W is too little in my opinion.

ALL tweeters take less power than their accompanying mids... DLS and some others are up front about it is all.

 

Would the A7 be underpowering a set of bi-amp'd UP6's? It is rated at 4x60W/1x300W at 4 ohms.