Ahhhh yeah that's why, I didn't realize you were leaving the gearbox on and pulled ONLY the motor. In that case it's fine to leave the window unsupported, I'm still shocked that you didn't have to reset it though

 

Hey everyone I’ve read through a lot about the window isssue and done the first few things that people suggest and I haven’t had any luck. I first cleaned the OEM window motor and it still wouldn’t work so I assumed the motor was bad. I then ordered a replacement one and then replaced the motor and I had the same issue when I plugged everything back in nothing was working. The motor wouldn’t spin and when I put it actually in the panel and everything back it wouldn’t work at all, it’s not the actual switch because the light is coming from it and the door lock works. It seems like no power is getting to the motor. I’ve tried several things with the OEM one and the replacement, but I don’t seem to have any luck with getting my window to work. Could it possibly be the window regulator? Everything seems pretty lose and it’s difficult to realine the two bolts when I try to get the panel with the motor back on. Getting pretty frustrated with this window, but I’m trying to avoid going to a mechanic. Any ideas or help would be greatly appreciated

 

its been awhile but i kinda recall both window switches needed to be connected for either one to work. does that sound familiar or am i remembering wrong?

 

Possible Solution - Shaft insertion and getting the cover completely closed.

Try placing one of the 3 screw that holds the metal cap in place over the rubber nipple found on the bottom of the window motor (see attached picture). Use this screw to force the rubber nipple into the window motor housing while simultaneously inserting the shaft of the window motor. I applied firm pressure to the screw head pushing it in between a quarter to half the length of the srcew into the hole. As soon as I did this the shaft slid right into place with minimal effort.

I believe this nipple is what is used to adjust the ball bearing at the bottom of the shaft hole. I tried to test this a second time to replicate the procedure but when I reinserted the shaft it slid right in with no need to push in on the rubber nipple

If anyone else who is having trouble getting the shaft completely inserted can try this and let me know if it works we can confirm that this is the answer to the problem . I hope this helps everyone with this issue.

 

So I have read this about a dozen times now... I am on my 4th window motor and they all seem to work for about 4-5 days then start doing the auto down like something is blocking it and then eventually just roll all the way down.. I can hear it trying to roll up but nothing... What am I doing wrong or missing in this process?

 

You're holding the button while doing the motor recalibration yes?

Remove the door panel so you have access to the recalibration button, close the door fully.

Next steps are done with "manual mode" which is just the first click of the window button, do NOT press or pull the button down to the second click which is "automatic mode"

Roll the window FULLY UP, then hold the button, roll the window FULLY DOWN, release the button, roll the window FULLY UP a second time, open the door. Window motor is now calibrated.

Next close the door and use automatic mode and test the window a couple times to make sure it stops at the correct position for fully opened and fully closed.


Also just to verify, you're replacing the ENTIRE motor assembly each time which includes the gearbox yes? If you are replacing just the electrical motor but leaving the gearbox attached to the door that might be where the problem is, typically the motor assembly is sold as motor+gearbox. The gearbox has a square drive output shaft that attaches to the window regulator.

If you've replaced the entire assembly but are still having problems then perhaps the entire regulator is crapped out and putting too much strain on the motor from crud inside the cables and pulleys. If the regulator has a lot of slop in it then the calibration will change and the motor won't recognize the new positions and default to an opened position (usually due to tripping the pinch sensor).

 

I have been re-calibrating them like you have said. I have been putting in new motors with the gearbox and one used one out of a parts car I picked up. I got lucky it worked perfect with out having to program it,but ended up failing on me. I will try cleaning the rails and see if that will do me any good. Thanks for your input Cleric.