Diy: Sticky For Window Motor Repairs/door Panel Removal

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Old Sep 6, 2011 | 04:31 PM
  #316  
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Originally Posted by Tri-GunSlingEr
The reset procedure has you do part of it with the door open, then has you close the door and do it with the door closed. I did it just like that and several times and the up/down little notch works fine... sometimes but as I mentioned in one of my previous posts, this issue has the door actually losing power "sometimes" when closed past the interior light switch being tripped although not always. I can turn the car off, then on again and the passenger window will work fine only to stop the next day or the next time I turn it off and on. I am almost 100% positive that this is a relay/switch issue and the only reason I'm still dealing with it is because I don't know which one to replace since several threads show that it could be the driver side relay controlling the passenger side relay. One day I'm just going to break down and buy both of them.
Man that sux. Mine isn't that bad yet but i doubted it will last another year or so. How come our g35 has this common problem and infiniti doesn't do anything about it??
 
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Old Sep 18, 2011 | 05:00 PM
  #317  
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I had a bad door rattle in my 2003 sedan that we had complained about to dealer on several occasions but of course got "could not verify". I got fed up and removed the door panel myself only to find two bolts with washers laying in the bottom of the door panel. At the time I didn't know where they were from but later found out they were part of the metal mechanism to raise and lower the glass. Screwed them back in and then had to reset the regulator for some reason and now that prob. is solved. Now if I had the radio fix, the power seat switch, and the bushings/compression rods fixed it would be really great.
 
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Old Sep 18, 2011 | 05:56 PM
  #318  
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Originally Posted by Mike C
I had a bad door rattle in my 2003 sedan that we had complained about to dealer on several occasions but of course got "could not verify". I got fed up and removed the door panel myself only to find two bolts with washers laying in the bottom of the door panel. At the time I didn't know where they were from but later found out they were part of the metal mechanism to raise and lower the glass. Screwed them back in and then had to reset the regulator for some reason and now that prob. is solved. Now if I had the radio fix, the power seat switch, and the bushings/compression rods fixed it would be really great.
The rattle noise in my driver side is still there every time I close the door. I did open up the door panel and tighten up the 2 screws but the problem is still there. Mean while, the passenger is perfectly fine. The noise drives me crazy. It sounds like the glass actually hitting something when I close the door. Was your rattle noise like that??
 
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Old Sep 19, 2011 | 07:21 PM
  #319  
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Yes, it sounded like the glass was going to drop. Truly sounds as it did new now.
The way a solid car is supposed to sound if you know what I mean. Isn't there four screws? I could be wrong. I tightened everything I found. I did have to reset the regulator so alignment must have changed on mine with the bottom bolts missing for some time.

BTW I did my radio repair today so one big item left, the compression rods/bushings deal for the 2003, not on TSB.


Originally Posted by Cooldude04
The rattle noise in my driver side is still there every time I close the door. I did open up the door panel and tighten up the 2 screws but the problem is still there. Mean while, the passenger is perfectly fine. The noise drives me crazy. It sounds like the glass actually hitting something when I close the door. Was your rattle noise like that??
 

Last edited by Mike C; Sep 19, 2011 at 07:26 PM.
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Old Sep 20, 2011 | 06:46 PM
  #320  
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I did tighten these 2 screws..


Did you tight them all the way in or just half way? I tighten them half way but the "dropping glass" noise is still there
 
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Old Sep 20, 2011 | 06:47 PM
  #321  
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^tighten all the way
 
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Old Sep 20, 2011 | 09:42 PM
  #322  
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Those are the ones that were laying in the door panel. I tightened tight.

Originally Posted by Cooldude04
I did tighten these 2 screws..


Did you tight them all the way in or just half way? I tighten them half way but the "dropping glass" noise is still there
 
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Old Sep 20, 2011 | 10:18 PM
  #323  
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thanks guys, i'll tight them up tomorrow..we'll see how it turns out..
 
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Old Sep 22, 2011 | 10:17 PM
  #324  
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Good info. Used it today to clean my window motor. Saved me $200, at least for now
 
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Old Oct 4, 2011 | 02:10 PM
  #325  
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Second time doing the passenger side; first time I did it without this write up and it took a few hours...

Just got done doing it the second time with the help if the forum and banged it out in just under an hour. Good looks guys!
 
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Old Oct 5, 2011 | 11:11 AM
  #326  
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i gotta do this soon, my driver side windwo is starting to jam up =/
 
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Old Oct 17, 2011 | 10:26 PM
  #327  
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the cleaning didn't work on my car i just had to buy a new motor for my driver side. but thanks for the diy
 
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Old Oct 17, 2011 | 10:40 PM
  #328  
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same here...multiple times too.
 
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Old Oct 20, 2011 | 06:21 PM
  #329  
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Originally Posted by Cassman
Thanks for the write up!!!! My driver's side motor is going. Just an FYI if someone has a window that is acting up and either doesn't have time or cash to get it fixed right away:

I have found that if I do not let it go all the way down, it will work fine. If I forget and use the auto down or just hold the button too long so that the window goes inside the door, then I'm screwed. Then I have to open the door, hold the up switch and slam the door at the same time to get the window up.

With this write up, I'll probably try to clean the motor soon. Thanks again!!!
I got scared for a minute.. but holding the button up and slamming the door worked!!
 
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Old Oct 27, 2011 | 10:36 PM
  #330  
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Anyone know where the diy is for the passenger side lock actuator replacement?

thanks
 
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