Question with changing Rear brembo brakes + adjsuting ebrakes!

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Old Oct 6, 2009 | 09:45 AM
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From: Fairfax, VA
Question with changing Rear brembo brakes + adjsuting ebrakes!

Hey guys!

so i bought new rotors and project MU brake pads (awesome pads!!)

Now i've changed my fronts already but how different is it to change the rears?

What i'm confused about is whether or not i need to adjust my ebrakes after i replace my rotors and pads.

Or, the only time you need to adjust your ebrakes if you aren't replacing ur pads?

I believe that in order to adjust your ebrakes, all you have to do is take the wheels off, pop off a rubber plug and use a screw driver through the hole and spin the spindle upwards right?
 
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Old Oct 6, 2009 | 11:23 AM
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From: Philly burbs
The e-brake is a separate system that presses brake shoes to the inside of the wheel hub - it has nothing to do with the rear brake rotor. Just remove and replace the rotor as you would the front. You don't need to adjust the parking brake if it's working fine.
 
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Old Oct 6, 2009 | 11:34 AM
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Originally Posted by G35fromPA
The e-brake is a separate system that presses brake shoes to the inside of the wheel hub - it has nothing to do with the rear brake rotor. Just remove and replace the rotor as you would the front. You don't need to adjust the parking brake if it's working fine.

my ebrakes goes up a little too much, it does work fine but it will still roll down on a hill. even my friend said it goes up a bit high.
 
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Old Oct 6, 2009 | 04:23 PM
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From: Philly burbs
So then you can adjust it. Just follow the procedure in the Field Service Manual.
 
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Old Oct 21, 2009 | 12:48 PM
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So, being cheap i didnt buy PB blaster and i thought i could bang on the rotors for awhile until it came off. Didnt work! so i started thinking and me and my friend thought the large bolt in the middle of the rotor was holding it in. that didnt even budge one bit so we said F*ck it and just installed the new brake pads.. LOL!!


going to go to the Nissan dealer tommorow to have them install the new rotors...


as well as a new stud which snapped off cuz NTB stripped it back then! Stupid NTB...
 
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Old Oct 21, 2009 | 01:04 PM
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You probably just needed a hammer to knock it off, with heat expansion and rust sometimes the fit gets a little snug. The big bolt you were messing with has to do with the axel...so good thing you didnt remove the improperly.

Now that I think about it, did you have the e-brake on while messing with the rear rotors? If you left it applied you will never get the rotor off because the ebrake shoes would be pressing against it. If that is the case, dont feel too bad. It can be a common overlook, just a shame you gave up though.
 
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Old Oct 21, 2009 | 01:09 PM
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From: Fairfax, VA
Originally Posted by idrive_MD
You probably just needed a hammer to knock it off, with heat expansion and rust sometimes the fit gets a little snug. The big bolt you were messing with has to do with the axel...so good thing you didnt remove the improperly.

Now that I think about it, did you have the e-brake on while messing with the rear rotors? If you left it applied you will never get the rotor off because the ebrake shoes would be pressing against it. If that is the case, dont feel too bad. It can be a common overlook, just a shame you gave up though.
yeah i had it off. i used a rubber hammer and banged and banged and banged all over the rotor to see if it'll budge at all, NOthing!

I might as well take it to the dealer since the stud needs to be replaced. im only running on 4 lug nuts right now on the driver side which is a huge safety issue. I'm scared sh*tless when i make right turns.
 
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Old Oct 21, 2009 | 02:02 PM
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From: Philly burbs
There is a procedure to loosen up the e-brake to give more clearance between the shoes and the inside brake drum:

From the FSM:
" If the disc rotor cannot be removed, remove as follows.
1. Fix the disc rotor with the wheel nut.
2. Remove plug.
3. Insert flat-bladed screwdriver through plug. Turn adjuster to make clearance between brake shoe and drum."
 
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