no not those...

If you can find SPL V-1 those probably have the most adaptability (including positive camber)...

Most A-Arms are going to give you plenty of negative camber, but not too many adjust very far positive.

How far positive do you need to go?

 

No more than +0.7°...

 

1/2 degree?...

Are you trying to get in spec? Or is there another reason?... 1/2 degree isn't munch to worry about typically...

 

Yea, I would like to get within the factory setting.

To keep the conversations going:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/KSPOR...Q5fCarQ5fParts

 

Those K-sports look like a similar build to the Kinetix which are known for breaking at the welds. Notice how the 350evo and the SPL V2's do not have welds in them... anywhere. They are 2-4 seperate pieces (depending on which one and both including the ball joint) that are all "bolted" together and not welded. There is an immense amount of stress being put on your A-Arms at all times while driving and the welds dont always hold up...

 

So, whats the cheapest camber kit that I can buy and from where? Im only worried about my tires going bald, not worried about anything else. My car is lowered 1.5" front and 1" rear. Thanks guys

 

you're not worried about welds breaking with going 60mph?... and you're not worried about adjuster plate coming loose while taking a sharp turn?

I couldn't give you a suggestion, because I think you are overlooking critical issues in order to save a couple bucks.

If you are looking for a "reasonably priced" A-Arm that is relatively reliable - there are a few... but "cheapest" with no other consideration = trouble.

 

what i meant to say was the cheapest one that will work without problems, and how hard are they to install at home? i saw a DIY online from stillen. Check out the link. Is all of this really required to get to the camber kit?

http://blog.stillen.com/installation...-installation/

 

The cheapest without losing quality would be Ichiba. But it will not get you as much positive adjustment as SPC/SPL/350EVO.

 

I know this is an old thread, but just threw in some ichibas on the front.. Only got +.1 of a camber difference from the OEM arms.. Was hoping to get back into spec, but no luck. I guess SPC, or SPL, is the way to go then, right? As of now, my camber on the left is 1.8, and the right is 2.1.. Anyone know if the knocking issue was ever resolved with the arms??