Pirates coilovers
#468
01-15-2012, 07:04 AM
#469
02-10-2012, 11:24 AM
#471
02-10-2012, 11:35 AM
#472
02-11-2012, 01:05 AM
#476
02-18-2012, 08:27 PM
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SkylineGTR2789 (02-19-2012)
#477
03-20-2012, 02:13 AM
Spring pre-load and instruction:
For operational stability of the shock and spring during re-bound the spring needs to be "tightened" or locked on the shock tube. When the spring "rebounds" or pops up after a bump in the road compresses the spring there MUST be NO "PLAY" or rattle or thump will be felt.
Aye maties, fer us pirates, our spring length is 200mm (7 7/8") long; flat to flat. (bare uninstalled black spring)
We need to adjust or pre-load the spring when slipping it on the threaded shock tube to 190mm (7 1/2") long (shorter) by compressing the spring with top aluminum collar and the spanner wrench.
The flats of each spring when on the its shock is compressed between aluminum pillow mount at top of the shock rod and the ring/collar at the bottom on the shock body.
Measure it with a tape measure or ruler.
The spring coil type is linear. Front springs at 200mm long are 559 lb/linear inch total.
The front the pre-load is equivalent to 210 - 235 lbs until the weight of the car is lowered on to the installed shock. Then it adds another 700 - 750 lbs at each shock.
The rears spring, same length as front, is rated 391 lb/in of linear compression. Softer spring but is still compressed 10mm or 190mm installed on shock tube or 5% or 150 - 165 lbs in it's case. It also gets static loaded with approximately 1/4 of the "sprung weight" of the sedan when the jacks are lowered.
Aye, Aye, hopin this err helps ya do the task well,
For operational stability of the shock and spring during re-bound the spring needs to be "tightened" or locked on the shock tube. When the spring "rebounds" or pops up after a bump in the road compresses the spring there MUST be NO "PLAY" or rattle or thump will be felt.
Aye maties, fer us pirates, our spring length is 200mm (7 7/8") long; flat to flat. (bare uninstalled black spring)
We need to adjust or pre-load the spring when slipping it on the threaded shock tube to 190mm (7 1/2") long (shorter) by compressing the spring with top aluminum collar and the spanner wrench.
The flats of each spring when on the its shock is compressed between aluminum pillow mount at top of the shock rod and the ring/collar at the bottom on the shock body.
Measure it with a tape measure or ruler.
The spring coil type is linear. Front springs at 200mm long are 559 lb/linear inch total.
The front the pre-load is equivalent to 210 - 235 lbs until the weight of the car is lowered on to the installed shock. Then it adds another 700 - 750 lbs at each shock.
The rears spring, same length as front, is rated 391 lb/in of linear compression. Softer spring but is still compressed 10mm or 190mm installed on shock tube or 5% or 150 - 165 lbs in it's case. It also gets static loaded with approximately 1/4 of the "sprung weight" of the sedan when the jacks are lowered.
Aye, Aye, hopin this err helps ya do the task well,
Change rear kit to True coilover: no pics, I don't have the parts off of my sedan yet but will describe the change as best I can.
What you WILL NOT USE on the rears are:
1) lower control arm bucket stays empty with NO SPRING.
2) leave out the "kit aluminum seat "(it has the tapered cut inside ridge that usually traps the spring end)
3) leave out the "kit aluminum threaded T-shaped spring jacking post". (and the upper large rubber seat)
What is left from the rear kit is (1) large aluminum ring, (2) small aluminum rings, the black spring, the steel clevis tube and the shock body with rod and pillow mount assembly.
The TRUE assembly of these parts is as follows:
I'll describe the order of parts from TOP to bottom;
The arrangement is car body with (2) OEM tack welded studs facing down, pillow mount (use the old crispy gasket with some razor trimming); spring slides over the shock body against the bottom of the pillow mount, large ring preloads 10mm of spring against the pillow mount, 1st small ring locks to the large ring upward, 2nd small ring locks downward to the top of the clevis tube which is threaded over shock body at your target drop height and finally the clevis and thru bolt mounts to the wheel hub. Finished, sorry no pics till mid-May.
The rears true coilover is just a height adjustable "strut" like the front coilover strut.
Hey play with it and send a pic ASAP you wrap your head around the plan.
Summary:
Remember, ALL the suspended "load and reactions" are NOW combined/carried on the "true" strut coilover.
Where OEM set-up "load" was carried in the spring bucket and dampering "reaction" were separated to compress/rebound at the shock body. Both set-up work against the car body, just different designs.
Advantages:
Height adjustment of true coilover is the big one. Like the front coilovers it is simpler to make height changes because all of the parts are in one assembly.
Other advantages can be important to race set-up, reduced weight but not necessarily for daily drivers that want a racy sport look and improved handling.
What you WILL NOT USE on the rears are:
1) lower control arm bucket stays empty with NO SPRING.
2) leave out the "kit aluminum seat "(it has the tapered cut inside ridge that usually traps the spring end)
3) leave out the "kit aluminum threaded T-shaped spring jacking post". (and the upper large rubber seat)
What is left from the rear kit is (1) large aluminum ring, (2) small aluminum rings, the black spring, the steel clevis tube and the shock body with rod and pillow mount assembly.
The TRUE assembly of these parts is as follows:
I'll describe the order of parts from TOP to bottom;
The arrangement is car body with (2) OEM tack welded studs facing down, pillow mount (use the old crispy gasket with some razor trimming); spring slides over the shock body against the bottom of the pillow mount, large ring preloads 10mm of spring against the pillow mount, 1st small ring locks to the large ring upward, 2nd small ring locks downward to the top of the clevis tube which is threaded over shock body at your target drop height and finally the clevis and thru bolt mounts to the wheel hub. Finished, sorry no pics till mid-May.
The rears true coilover is just a height adjustable "strut" like the front coilover strut.
Hey play with it and send a pic ASAP you wrap your head around the plan.
Summary:
Remember, ALL the suspended "load and reactions" are NOW combined/carried on the "true" strut coilover.
Where OEM set-up "load" was carried in the spring bucket and dampering "reaction" were separated to compress/rebound at the shock body. Both set-up work against the car body, just different designs.
Advantages:
Height adjustment of true coilover is the big one. Like the front coilovers it is simpler to make height changes because all of the parts are in one assembly.
Other advantages can be important to race set-up, reduced weight but not necessarily for daily drivers that want a racy sport look and improved handling.
How goes it folks... Yeah.. True coil setup will fix that problem brotha.. W/ these spring rates, there's NO WAY the rear will not be bouncy in OEM setup.. I tried everything homie.. You MUST put them in true coil setup, and I've found the ride to be EXCELLENT after that..
After you do that, ENSURE you also tighten the bolt on your spring buckets, otherwise you'll hear a pop everytime you stop or start from a dead stop as well..
To configure the coils as true coils, you simply make the rear coils look like the front.. Slide the springs over the shock and install.. Very simple.. The bottom of the shock unscrews completely off..
The rattle or whatever you hear in the front might be due to the nut not being tight on the front shock tower.. There is a nut right under the damping dial that needs to be tightened.. Lock that bastard down, and you'll get rid of that rattle..
You still might get a "slight" chatter when going in parkinglots at 20mph or under, that's just a sound you get used to from having coils.. You won't even hear it if you have the radio on, and you can't hear it outside of the cabin so no worries.. It's not loud at all and some people don't even hear it.. Just know that it's normal if you do.
After you do that, ENSURE you also tighten the bolt on your spring buckets, otherwise you'll hear a pop everytime you stop or start from a dead stop as well..
To configure the coils as true coils, you simply make the rear coils look like the front.. Slide the springs over the shock and install.. Very simple.. The bottom of the shock unscrews completely off..
The rattle or whatever you hear in the front might be due to the nut not being tight on the front shock tower.. There is a nut right under the damping dial that needs to be tightened.. Lock that bastard down, and you'll get rid of that rattle..
You still might get a "slight" chatter when going in parkinglots at 20mph or under, that's just a sound you get used to from having coils.. You won't even hear it if you have the radio on, and you can't hear it outside of the cabin so no worries.. It's not loud at all and some people don't even hear it.. Just know that it's normal if you do.
...
As far as the rattle chatt, is it in the front or rear.. Like I said, the only thing audible that I have (which is completely normal) is the slight chatter when going in parkinglots around 20mph or less.. Most coils have a "sound" when flexed that you can hear when going at slower speeds.. You can't hear this when going faster.. So it's normal.
If you're hearing the sound in the front, you might want to check the nut right above the pillow ball mount to ensure it's tightened.. It's right beneath the damping dial.. Sometimes that nut will losen because of the movement of the coils.. I put loctite on mine to ensure that it doesn't come loose again.. That's the only time mine rattled..
As far as the rattle chatt, is it in the front or rear.. Like I said, the only thing audible that I have (which is completely normal) is the slight chatter when going in parkinglots around 20mph or less.. Most coils have a "sound" when flexed that you can hear when going at slower speeds.. You can't hear this when going faster.. So it's normal.
If you're hearing the sound in the front, you might want to check the nut right above the pillow ball mount to ensure it's tightened.. It's right beneath the damping dial.. Sometimes that nut will losen because of the movement of the coils.. I put loctite on mine to ensure that it doesn't come loose again.. That's the only time mine rattled..
....
And to illuminati..did you check the preload front and rear? Mine are set at 190mm..so preload is 10mm since springs are 200mm.. and from what you said I'm guessing your front and rear shocks are set to the same height? I'm pretty sure the fronts are longer than the rears...I think my fronts are like 24 inches and my rears are like 18 or 19 inches a0in length if measuring from the mounting points..and my ride height is perfect front to rear..not sure if this helps...
And to illuminati..did you check the preload front and rear? Mine are set at 190mm..so preload is 10mm since springs are 200mm.. and from what you said I'm guessing your front and rear shocks are set to the same height? I'm pretty sure the fronts are longer than the rears...I think my fronts are like 24 inches and my rears are like 18 or 19 inches a0in length if measuring from the mounting points..and my ride height is perfect front to rear..not sure if this helps...
questions?
#478
03-20-2012, 02:38 AM
for anyone else looking to buy the TopSpeed versions, they go on my350 for $560 shipped>>> http://my350z.com/forum/suspension/5...-shipping.html
#480
04-08-2012, 11:33 PM
Yeah I was just there this Friday at Topspeed. They just got a 25 amount shipment in and they are already on back order for like 80+ people waiting.
Any how, I got a set of MDU coils for sell. Its the orange ones with the 10k front & 7k rear springs.
Only used them less than 5,000 miles. I got replacement MDU rear shocks which are new and never used. LMK if you want to grab your hands on them. Im located in Dallas TX.
Any how, I got a set of MDU coils for sell. Its the orange ones with the 10k front & 7k rear springs.
Only used them less than 5,000 miles. I got replacement MDU rear shocks which are new and never used. LMK if you want to grab your hands on them. Im located in Dallas TX.