Sheared stud off the compression rod, do i need new compression bar ?
#1
Sheared stud off the compression rod, do i need new compression bar ?
Hi,
Working on a 2004 G35X on the front passenger side wheel trying to remove the spindle so I can get to the wheel hub/bearing. Took off upper control arm, outer tie rod end, lower control arm and just had the damn compression bar left to go.
Try as I might, I couldn't get the nut to turn using breaker bar , impact wrench etc until it finally snapped off with the stud that takes the cotter pin with it.
I have no idea where to go from here.
I was following this diy
https://g35driver.com/forums/brakes-...-bearings.htmlhttps://g35driver.com/forums/brakes-...-bearings.html
thread if that helps anyone understand better the part I'm talking about.
Thanks guys. I really need some input please. This is looking like it will be a big mess to get it right again.
Working on a 2004 G35X on the front passenger side wheel trying to remove the spindle so I can get to the wheel hub/bearing. Took off upper control arm, outer tie rod end, lower control arm and just had the damn compression bar left to go.
Try as I might, I couldn't get the nut to turn using breaker bar , impact wrench etc until it finally snapped off with the stud that takes the cotter pin with it.
I have no idea where to go from here.
I was following this diy
https://g35driver.com/forums/brakes-...-bearings.htmlhttps://g35driver.com/forums/brakes-...-bearings.html
thread if that helps anyone understand better the part I'm talking about.
Thanks guys. I really need some input please. This is looking like it will be a big mess to get it right again.
Last edited by studio54; 12-17-2013 at 05:30 PM. Reason: forgot to add link to DIY thread
#2
Hi,
Working on a 2004 G35X on the front passenger side wheel trying to remove the spindle so I can get to the wheel hub/bearing. Took off upper control arm, outer tie rod end, lower control arm and just had the damn compression bar left to go.
Try as I might, I couldn't get the nut to turn using breaker bar , impact wrench etc until it finally snapped off with the stud that takes the cotter pin with it.
I have no idea where to go from here.
I was following this diy
https://g35driver.com/forums/brakes-...-bearings.htmlhttps://g35driver.com/forums/brakes-...-bearings.html
thread if that helps anyone understand better the part I'm talking about.
Thanks guys. I really need some input please. This is looking like it will be a big mess to get it right again.
Working on a 2004 G35X on the front passenger side wheel trying to remove the spindle so I can get to the wheel hub/bearing. Took off upper control arm, outer tie rod end, lower control arm and just had the damn compression bar left to go.
Try as I might, I couldn't get the nut to turn using breaker bar , impact wrench etc until it finally snapped off with the stud that takes the cotter pin with it.
I have no idea where to go from here.
I was following this diy
https://g35driver.com/forums/brakes-...-bearings.htmlhttps://g35driver.com/forums/brakes-...-bearings.html
thread if that helps anyone understand better the part I'm talking about.
Thanks guys. I really need some input please. This is looking like it will be a big mess to get it right again.
Then I went to the dealer and picked up a new bolt. I'm not sure if the compression bar is all on piece or not, since I never had to replace mine.
Last edited by coffeysm; 12-17-2013 at 11:44 PM.
#3
So the part of the stud, nut, and cotter pin snapped off? The rest of the stud is still screwed down is what happened? If you can still remove the compression bar take it to a machine shop and they should be able to remove it for you. I did that with a caliper bracket and one mechanic told me to spend 200 bucks and buy a new caliper. I found a machine shop and he charged me 50 bucks to extract it. He was done in probably 10 minutes, but charged me half hour labor.
Then I went to the dealer and picked up a new bolt. I'm not sure if the compression bar is all on piece or not, since I never had to replace mine.
Then I went to the dealer and picked up a new bolt. I'm not sure if the compression bar is all on piece or not, since I never had to replace mine.
Yes, that whole part snapped off and the rest of the thread is still in there. So far from assessing the situation I kind of came with the same "solution". Take down that big brace that's under the compression rod (or is it bar), and pull off both the spindle and compression rod (they are both still attached together, the compression bar stud slips into the spindle, what a friggin headache this whole thing has become, hopefully the remainder of the stud still in the spindle will slip out easier once they're off the car).
I just didn't know where to take the 2 pieces to have them separated. Please bear with me, I know this is a stupid question but what the heck is a machine shop? I'm in MN. Is there a nationwide chain example you can give me so I know what to look for please?
#4
thank you for replying.
Yes, that whole part snapped off and the rest of the thread is still in there. So far from assessing the situation i kind of came with the same "solution". Take down that big brace that's under the compression rod (or is it bar), and pull off both the spindle and compression rod (they are both still attached together, the compression bar stud slips into the spindle, what a friggin headache this whole thing has become, hopefully the remainder of the stud still in the spindle will slip out easier once they're off the car).
I just didn't know where to take the 2 pieces to have them separated. Please bear with me, i know this is a stupid question but what the heck is a machine shop? I'm in mn. Is there a nationwide chain example you can give me so i know what to look for please?
Yes, that whole part snapped off and the rest of the thread is still in there. So far from assessing the situation i kind of came with the same "solution". Take down that big brace that's under the compression rod (or is it bar), and pull off both the spindle and compression rod (they are both still attached together, the compression bar stud slips into the spindle, what a friggin headache this whole thing has become, hopefully the remainder of the stud still in the spindle will slip out easier once they're off the car).
I just didn't know where to take the 2 pieces to have them separated. Please bear with me, i know this is a stupid question but what the heck is a machine shop? I'm in mn. Is there a nationwide chain example you can give me so i know what to look for please?
On the image I attached the stud that broke out is attached to the blue part right? The OEM is most likely black. You shouldn't have to remove the spindle to separate both of them. Odds are it's probably rusted or something on there you can try soaking it with PB Blaster/Liquid wrench. I would also head down to Advance Auto/Autozone and rent a pickle fork and ball joint separator. One of those tools should hopefully be able to split the two parts. I don't know if it's possible, but you might be able to press out the ball joint and replace it with a new one, but that would be a real PITA. That's only if you want to keep the OEM compression rod. www.rockauto.com has replacement for under $100.00 Beck/Arnley is pretty decent from what I read and I replaced my lower control arms with Dorman.
If worse comes to worse you can do the neanderthal method as I call it, lol. But, prepare to have a big mess and lots of ventilation. I couldn't separate the ball joints on my Volvo, so I used a propane torch, PB Blaster/Liquid wrench (be careful thought it's flammable), pry bar, and hammer eventually knocked them loose. You'll most likely need a new compression after this method as well.
A machine shop is basically a place where you would take your engine to be re-surfaced or built. Since, they work with engines and rebuild/break things down they probably have the most experience in removing stripped, broken, and problem bolts. A lot of really good automotive shops will have a machine shop attached or someone who does it. Just do a Google search in your area for engine machine shops.
#5
Attachment 163817
On the image I attached the stud that broke out is attached to the blue part right? The OEM is most likely black. You shouldn't have to remove the spindle to separate both of them. Odds are it's probably rusted or something on there you can try soaking it with PB Blaster/Liquid wrench. I would also head down to Advance Auto/Autozone and rent a pickle fork and ball joint separator. One of those tools should hopefully be able to split the two parts. I don't know if it's possible, but you might be able to press out the ball joint and replace it with a new one, but that would be a real PITA. That's only if you want to keep the OEM compression rod. www.rockauto.com has replacement for under $100.00 Beck/Arnley is pretty decent from what I read and I replaced my lower control arms with Dorman.
If worse comes to worse you can do the neanderthal method as I call it, lol. But, prepare to have a big mess and lots of ventilation. I couldn't separate the ball joints on my Volvo, so I used a propane torch, PB Blaster/Liquid wrench (be careful thought it's flammable), pry bar, and hammer eventually knocked them loose. You'll most likely need a new compression after this method as well.
A machine shop is basically a place where you would take your engine to be re-surfaced or built. Since, they work with engines and rebuild/break things down they probably have the most experience in removing stripped, broken, and problem bolts. A lot of really good automotive shops will have a machine shop attached or someone who does it. Just do a Google search in your area for engine machine shops.
On the image I attached the stud that broke out is attached to the blue part right? The OEM is most likely black. You shouldn't have to remove the spindle to separate both of them. Odds are it's probably rusted or something on there you can try soaking it with PB Blaster/Liquid wrench. I would also head down to Advance Auto/Autozone and rent a pickle fork and ball joint separator. One of those tools should hopefully be able to split the two parts. I don't know if it's possible, but you might be able to press out the ball joint and replace it with a new one, but that would be a real PITA. That's only if you want to keep the OEM compression rod. www.rockauto.com has replacement for under $100.00 Beck/Arnley is pretty decent from what I read and I replaced my lower control arms with Dorman.
If worse comes to worse you can do the neanderthal method as I call it, lol. But, prepare to have a big mess and lots of ventilation. I couldn't separate the ball joints on my Volvo, so I used a propane torch, PB Blaster/Liquid wrench (be careful thought it's flammable), pry bar, and hammer eventually knocked them loose. You'll most likely need a new compression after this method as well.
A machine shop is basically a place where you would take your engine to be re-surfaced or built. Since, they work with engines and rebuild/break things down they probably have the most experience in removing stripped, broken, and problem bolts. A lot of really good automotive shops will have a machine shop attached or someone who does it. Just do a Google search in your area for engine machine shops.
Yes, the part above the blue part that goes into the spindle is whats sheared off and the remainder is still in the dang spindle.
So the ball joint(I mean blue part in case I'm not referencing the correct end of the comp rod in the pic) includes the stud with the thread?
If so, how does it attach to the rod, is it also screwed on?
Ideally, I would like to keep the comp rod since it wasn't giving me any problems but $100 for a new one is not bad. I was pricing some online and they were all in the $250 range which is a bit steep for me since I also need to change out the wheel bearing and hub assembly and will be also putting a new cv axle half shaft on that side as well.
#6
Honestly, I'm not sure how the ball joint is attached on the compression rod. Sometimes they are pressed in and you can press them out. You can do that with the ball joint on the spindle.
But if it's all one part you'll probably need new one. Check out rockauto.com cheapest parts not in quality, but in price. If you can press them out it would probably cost at least 100 bucks to have someone do it also.
But if it's all one part you'll probably need new one. Check out rockauto.com cheapest parts not in quality, but in price. If you can press them out it would probably cost at least 100 bucks to have someone do it also.
#7
Honestly, I'm not sure how the ball joint is attached on the compression rod. Sometimes they are pressed in and you can press them out. You can do that with the ball joint on the spindle.
But if it's all one part you'll probably need new one. Check out rockauto.com cheapest parts not in quality, but in price. If you can press them out it would probably cost at least 100 bucks to have someone do it also.
But if it's all one part you'll probably need new one. Check out rockauto.com cheapest parts not in quality, but in price. If you can press them out it would probably cost at least 100 bucks to have someone do it also.
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#8
Try looking under control arm. Infiniti calls it a compression rod and lower control arm is called a transverse link, so make sure you look at the picture carefully and not just find the cheapest part. They might be grouped together.
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