Hey guys and gals,

AFter an initial problem with my service engine soon light coming on I'm all fixed up. Anyone doing this mod make sure you disconnect the battery to reset the ECU. I did that and let it sit for about 14 hours and reconected the negative on the battery and the grounding wire there as well and no more light.
Now for the important part- performance. Pre ECU rest I didn't feel much. After the reset my butt dyno says this thing really works. It has more response at all throttle openings and especially above 4000 rpm. I could feel it as soon as I started to drive the car. Its pulls harder and it sounds angry at higher rpms. I was running it with the valve off stopping the flow of coolant through the throttle body which apparently helps keep the plenum cooler and the air denser.

 

Hey Deane great to hear the positive results.
Looking forward to this one myself.

 

Ahhhhhhh, you sound much happier today about that mod, Deane....Those darn MILs can be bothersome......sounds like it was only a temp and cleared with the ECU reset.
Your 'butt' seems to fall in line with the few others who have done the mod, and the increase in hp sounds like it could be more than just a few. Excellent job.

I'm wondering if stopping the coolant flow to the TB will have an adverse effect on fuel economy.
Do you mean 'the valve' just shuts off the flow and leaves it off? or is it thermostatically controlled? or?????
Just wondering......

Glad to hear she's all ship shape.

C.

 

Thanks Ian, the valve wil be a PITA unless you close it in June and open it again in September leaving it alone until the following summer. Thermostatically controlled is the way to go.
I was quite impressed with the way my car was running this afternoon.

 

Thanks Colin. Yes I'm very pleased right now with the result. It is truly noticable. I'm sure it is more than a few HP since it pulls harder and makes more noise from the rubber on a fast shift past the first 2 gears.
It's an in line ball valve for the small coolant hose running to the TB that opens and closes with a slotted screwdriver. The coolant line keeps the TB from freeze up so the valve is to be open below 55 F and closed for temps above that for maximum performance. Apparently Tony is working on a thermostatically controlled set up that is actually shown in the install instructions but not in production yet. I am planning a highway trip next weekend (funeral service ) so I'll find out on the fuel mileage if the temps allow it to be closed.

 

Deane,
Your upcoming trip will tell the tale of any fuel mileage changes, provided the ambient temp is above 55. G/L.

Sorry to hear of the funeral.

C.

 

I noticed that too; it's in the part list, but not described.
From my other posts in Tony's thread, I don't think it's a thermostatically controlled device.
I think it's a fancy heat sink that keeps the throtle body heat isolated from the rest of the plenum.
So it'll let the plenum run cooler evan with the coolant valve open.

 

Yes Ian after reviewing the posts I think you're right. In any event it sounds like a worthwhile piece to get whenever he has it available.
Deane

 

We'll see soon....
If it works efficiently
I was thinking that I may not evan put the isolation valve in.

 

I probably wouldn't either if it does work.

 

The Copper Iso Thermal works awesome! (really good) And yes, its true you won't need the valve. Just install it and you're done. It doesn't matter how cold the weather gets. In fact, the colder the better!

I want to get it released now but once enough are stock piled we are good to go. Gimme about 2 weeks to get it stocked up.

Tony

 

hey Tony,
It's great to see you trolling the waters on the Canada side!
I guess you read my comments on the new set up. It's great.

 

Thank you!

The new component will be ready soon. And you will be able to take full advantage of that super cold weather that will be comming your way soon.

Tony

 

So the stock setup currently has engine coolant flowing directly to the TB with no controlling device such as a thermostatic valve?

And currently, the IsoTherm Spacer kit comes with spacer, isotherm insert, and the coolant manual valve?

Tony, have you thought about making an isotherm insert for the TB itself? That would isolate the TB from the plenum allowing it to run in normal fashion but keeps the plenum from heating up. I know a lot of manufacturers make a similar spacer for the Mustangs. Both separating the plenum from the block and the TB.

 

Thats what we're talking about...
"Copper Iso Thermal "
It's a heat sink that isolates the TB coolant heat from the plenum.

Tony has it in production now, soon to be released