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Feb 8, 2009 | 02:41 PM
  #856  
^ You can apply wax with a PC? I thought it was meant for polish
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Feb 8, 2009 | 03:19 PM
  #857  
Shows just how much of a noob i am. lol I dont know the proceders for buffing at all with a buffer.
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Feb 8, 2009 | 03:38 PM
  #858  
I think you wash, clay, polish with PC and some sort of polishing compound, and then wax and/or sealant
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Feb 8, 2009 | 03:52 PM
  #859  
Quote: thanks George. I used the ScratchX followed by some Poorboy's polish with sealant. it did an okay job, but it might just be time to replace the clearbra. it looks like crap compared to the paint.
That's about as good as you'll get unless you step it up to using a buffer with some more aggressive polishes on the clear bra. Sounds like it may be time to get the clear bra replaced as you said though.

Quote: Thanks for all the Info!
You're welcome

Quote: I'm sorry I never ended up buying the wheel sealant and I couldn't find the page where you recommended the right one. Was it poorboy's wheel sealant that you said would do the best job on my Sevas? They are painted face with a chrome lip. I want something that will make them easier to clean and maybe shine more, as well as protect from the rain/mud/calcium
Yep, sounds like Poorboy's Wheel Sealant is just what you are looking for. I'd recommend 2 - 3 thin coats for maximum protection and gloss and depth. It'll make maintaining your wheels significantly easier as well.

Quote: Question: What wax/whatever would you recommend me using with my new Porter cable buffer? Do you use a liquid or paste? Im just looking for a good all around wax, not multiple ones for good/bad swirls or whatever. Just a nice median..
Your question is a little vague, so if my reply doesn't sound right, let me know and try to be more specific on what you're trying to accomplish.

To me it sounds like you're looking for a 1 step product that will clean and protect your paint. Something like OPT Poli-Seal will both polish your paint and protect it in 1 step, yielding the maximum results in the least amount of time. I'd recommend applying that up with a white polishing pad.

Buffers are designed primarily to help correct imperfections in the paint, which comes from polishing. You can also use them to apply a sealant or wax, but is typically not the primary reason why you'd use a buffer. To effectively break down a polish and remove imperfections (swirls, scratches, water spots, etc.) you need to generate a lot of friction to break down abrasive particles found in polishes. It's nearly impossible to simulate 6,000 hand motions per minute while applying 10 - 15 lbs of pressure, making 6 - 8 passes over each portion of your paint. With the PC, you can do that. If you haven't read through our polishing guide yet, I'd recommend doing so.

Hope this helps. Let me know if there's anything else I can answer for you.

George
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Feb 8, 2009 | 03:53 PM
  #860  
Cool thanks. I ordered my wheel sealant yesterday
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Feb 8, 2009 | 06:07 PM
  #861  
Quote: That's about as good as you'll get unless you step it up to using a buffer with some more aggressive polishes on the clear bra. Sounds like it may be time to get the clear bra replaced as you said though.



You're welcome



Yep, sounds like Poorboy's Wheel Sealant is just what you are looking for. I'd recommend 2 - 3 thin coats for maximum protection and gloss and depth. It'll make maintaining your wheels significantly easier as well.



Your question is a little vague, so if my reply doesn't sound right, let me know and try to be more specific on what you're trying to accomplish.

To me it sounds like you're looking for a 1 step product that will clean and protect your paint. Something like OPT Poli-Seal will both polish your paint and protect it in 1 step, yielding the maximum results in the least amount of time. I'd recommend applying that up with a white polishing pad.

Buffers are designed primarily to help correct imperfections in the paint, which comes from polishing. You can also use them to apply a sealant or wax, but is typically not the primary reason why you'd use a buffer. To effectively break down a polish and remove imperfections (swirls, scratches, water spots, etc.) you need to generate a lot of friction to break down abrasive particles found in polishes. It's nearly impossible to simulate 6,000 hand motions per minute while applying 10 - 15 lbs of pressure, making 6 - 8 passes over each portion of your paint. With the PC, you can do that. If you haven't read through our polishing guide yet, I'd recommend doing so.

Hope this helps. Let me know if there's anything else I can answer for you.

George
Thanks! I ordered that. I guess im impulsive.

So before i do that, i clay bar, correct? Then i have some wax that i bought from you. It comes in the white container, good all around stuff, should i use that after the poli seal?

Thanks! And ill look into the proper polishing technique
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Feb 8, 2009 | 06:55 PM
  #862  
Quote: Thanks! I ordered that. I guess im impulsive.

So before i do that, i clay bar, correct? Then i have some wax that i bought from you. It comes in the white container, good all around stuff, should i use that after the poli seal?

Thanks! And ill look into the proper polishing technique
Ideally you'll want to clay prior to polishing. This will properly prep the surface and remove any embedded contamination remaining on the paint.

You can certainly top the Poli-Seal with the wax. Ideally, wait 24 hours for the sealant to fully cure and bond to the paint before applying the wax. This will ensure you get the longest durability out of the Poli-Seal.

If you have any other questions on anything, please do not hesitate to ask. Keep us posted on how things turn out.

Thanks again for your support

George
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Feb 8, 2009 | 07:58 PM
  #863  
ALright! Thank you for all your help!
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Feb 9, 2009 | 01:09 PM
  #864  
Question:

I have a nasty buildup of brakedust and road dirt in the crevices of my wheels where the spoke meets the outer edge of the rim. All my usual cleaning practices are not working and I will not spend an hour per wheel Never Dulling the damn things. Got any suggestions?

Jeff
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Feb 9, 2009 | 02:50 PM
  #865  
I got a hood today from a wrecked volvo and tried polishing it. Question, do i remove the polish with a MF towel or another pad? THanks!
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Feb 9, 2009 | 07:46 PM
  #866  
Quote: Question:

I have a nasty buildup of brakedust and road dirt in the crevices of my wheels where the spoke meets the outer edge of the rim. All my usual cleaning practices are not working and I will not spend an hour per wheel Never Dulling the damn things. Got any suggestions?

Jeff
Jeff,

Sometimes polishing is the only answer to get them back to clean, which unfortunately can take some time depending on how bad the build up and contamination is. My best recommendation is to spend the time to clean them up one more time, then invest in something like Poorboy's Wheel Sealant, protect your wheels, then maintain them with soap and water and perhaps look into an E-Z Detail Brush to clean those crevices you're describing.

Quote: I got a hood today from a wrecked volvo and tried polishing it. Question, do i remove the polish with a MF towel or another pad? THanks!
You want to remove the polish (should be just a clear milky coating if done correctly) with a microfiber towel by hand.

Good idea picking up the practice hood.

George
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Feb 9, 2009 | 07:52 PM
  #867  
ok, thanks. I'll make a thread in a bit with pics.
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Feb 11, 2009 | 02:02 PM
  #868  
Hi,

I made a substantial purchase from your site yesterday. Did I cover everything or is there something else I need to get? I'll also have some questions about how to properly use these products very soon .

Also, how are the products I chose? It is for an OB coupe. I know I should probably have asked before buying it, but it didn't come to me at the time as it was an impulse buy after quite a bit of reading.

---------------------------------------------------------------------
Product Quantity Total Cost
---------------------------------------------------------------------
303: Aerospace Protectant - 16 oz 1 $11.69
303: Fabric & Vinyl Cleaner - 32 oz 1 $12.82
Chemical Guys: Citrus Wash & Gloss - 16 oz 1 $7.19
Chemical Guys: Fine Grade Clay Bar - 180 g 1 $18.80
Chemical Guys: Jet Seal 109 - 16 oz 1 $35.99
Chemical Guys: Synthetic Quick Detailer - 16 oz 1 $8.99
DI Accessories: Sheepskin Wash Mitt 1 $8.99
DI Packages: Porter Cable 7424 Starter Kit 1 $199.99
Gilmour: Foamaster II Foam Gun - 1/2 Gallon Tank 1 $53.99
Grit Guard: Grit Guard Insert 1 $8.54
Menzerna: PO106FA Nano Polish (Super Finish) - 32 oz 1 $44.99
Menzerna: Super Intensive Polish PO83 - 32 oz 1 $44.99
P21S: Finish Restorer - 75 ml 1 $8.99
P21S: Gel Wheel Cleaner - 500 ml Kit 1 $15.29
P21S: Pure Carnauba Wax 1 $44.99
P21S: Total Auto Wash - 1000 ml Kit 1 $15.29
Poorboy's World: Bold 'n Bright - 16 oz 1 $9.40
Stoner: Invisible Glass - 19 oz 1 $4.27
---------------------------------------------------------------------
Subtotal: $555.21
Shipping: $0.00
Tax: $0.00
Total: $555.21
---------------------------------------------------------------------
Reply 0
Feb 11, 2009 | 08:45 PM
  #869  
[QUOTE=Detailed Image;3899680]Jeff,

Sometimes polishing is the only answer to get them back to clean, which unfortunately can take some time depending on how bad the build up and contamination is. My best recommendation is to spend the time to clean them up one more time, then invest in something like Poorboy's Wheel Sealant, protect your wheels, then maintain them with soap and water and perhaps look into an E-Z Detail Brush to clean those crevices you're describing.

Thanks for the info! I will try it when it gets nice.

Jeff
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Feb 11, 2009 | 08:56 PM
  #870  
darn shipping from NY takes forever
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