thoughts have crossed my mind but let me get up and running.

I have been trying to figure this out...I would have to drop down to higher offest like upper 20's and then move into a x11 or x12 to attempt that.

yes based on the price I paid..I did have alot of expenses of extra items but thats because im **** about the things I purchase when it comes to boost.

+1

It was free pretty much....sold the ARC airbox and intake pipe that funded the turbo.

the CS Rear I havent repainted yet actually...front has been done twice and hood just the first time but all needs to go back in. Now that this wont be a daily I can keep it out of the elements now...I know the turbo will be coming off this weekend and I am working on picking up the LS1 along with pulling out my motor to start parting it out or selling as a whole.

 

Bluebob I havent really had to work on the turbo at all.....that was never anything I had to fix and never had to pay for anything to be fixed. The times back at T1 was all free and they were doing testing for UPREV really.

 

Interesting... then I stand corrected. That's cool that you were able to get T1 to do that stuff free.

 

I had to pay for the first session of tuning which was the 600.00 like Steve was but the extra stuff they were doing and testing with it was all on there dime. of course I had them mount them oil cooler and fix little things here and there while it was there. they also created that custom pipe for me with the integrated MAF sensor housing that causes problems with all Turbonetics setups.

 

so not free....

 

what you get as a daily, chris?

 

well you said working on the car so wasnt quite sure on what you were meaning...but any tuning on any FI will run 600.00 so thats a given no matter the shop. They spent almost 2 weeks total on the car tuning, diagnosing flaws within UPREV's software and so forth and basically writing a whole manual on items they needed to change to fix hot start problems.....there latest updates was compliments to Wayne Potts at T1 for building the tables that are now accessed on the fuel output for different levels of temperature.

 

I have the 2007 Tahoe LT.

 

I know this... and that's $600 minimum haha. Hence my original comment... had to pay to make it work. To me, that includes the tuning and the cost of getting it there, etc.

 

where did you get a tahoe? or is that woman's car?

 

Anyone have a clue as to why my brakes are freezing over night? I just had Stephen put all new fluids in and bleed them to make sure it wasn't moisture in the lines... didn't help. Brake pedal is hard as a rock after the car sits in the cold for 6-8 hours... takes about 5-10 minutes depending on how cold it is to get them to free up again.

i made a thread but no one has answered yet :\

https://g35driver.com/forums/brakes-...en-brakes.html

 

Either the bleed was unsuccessful or there's something that's letting moisture into your lines in a manner in which the moisture was removed with the new fluids, but came back due to the real reason....

 

a quick search results in the fact that regular DOT brake fluid has a freezing point well below 0 degrees Fahrenheit, so it's not the fluid itself. one suggestion was that the seals have gone to hell and need to be replaced

 

Only issue if seals were bad then he wouldn't have constantt pressure which makes me think it might be the one valve on the brake booster or something with the abs or brake booster

 

tahoe is mine. From a local seller. still waiting on bank to get him the title since he paid it off 2 days before I contacted him.....once title is here we run to the bank and sign it over..everything else is ready to go.