well took it out for a test drive and noticed an even smoother idle, idle increase with a/c was lower also so i will say it was worth the 6 bucks i spent on the ring connecters and the 30 min it too to cut crimp and put on the wires.

 

So I don't actually know much about this stuff but for the people that say they truly noticed a difference I wonder what the effect would be of just adding two well connected extra 4 awg ground wires vs the 5, 8,10 wire kits... any opinions?

 

As said in lots of posts here about grounding kits, this seems to help the AT's more than the MT's. I installed a Stillen kit on my Sedan, other than looking cool, the only thing it did was cut down on some of the RF noise in my Ham radios.

 

I guess that's sort of my point... with so many different "opinions" I don't really want to spend $50 on something that may not do anything. So if I were to install one really good ground from the front of the engine to the chassis and then one really good ground from the back of the engine to the chassis with some spare high quality 4 awg wire I already have would this provide at least a similar result as the full 7 wire kit enough for me to see if I notice a difference or not?

 

i have kit laying around.. never got to use it

 

The big three upgrade is for ALT POWER, BATTERY GROUND, and ENGINE GROUND.

Engine to Grounding point on car

Battery ground "-" to ground point on car

Battery "+" to Alternator power lead "+" with Fuse inline


Here is what the you can do finalize and ground everything else including transmission for SO CALLED GAINS...

1) ECU ground to grounding point on plenum near cylinder 1 (front of car passenger side)

2) PS ground to grounding point on plenum near cylinder 1 (front of car passenger side)

3) Extension from Front of timing cover to same grounding point cylinder 1 (front of car passenger side)

4) Front of timing cover (same location at #3) to Intake mounting point on plenum. (where stock z/g tube screws into plenum)

5)Intake mounting point on plenum (where stock z/g tube screws into plenum) to brake/clutch grounding point.


6) Intake mounting point to plenum grounding point on cylinder 1 (same as Step #1 & #2) (Not sure if this is necessary )


7) Front timing cover to grounding point cylinder 1 front of engine near sensor / coolant hose.

8) Grounding point to transmission

9) Intake mounting point on plenum to grounding point around driver headlight grounding point.

10) Throttle body to grounding point in battery compartment


https://g35driver.com/forums/g35-cou...ml#post5992222

https://g35driver.com/forums/g35-sed...nce-parts.html

https://g35driver.com/forums/g-spot/...-asap-pls.html

https://g35driver.com/forums/engine-...tallation.html

https://g35driver.com/forums/g35-sed...ml#post5996257

 

You don't 4GA wire for grounds it's overkill. I have an 06G35X and heres how to DIY, 8GA car audio ground wire. Lets start with the batt. albums/o520/ilovemyG/P1000181.jpg[/IMG] The batt+ cables are 4GA and are now soldered as is are the 4 main 10GA power wires also soldered. This is factory batt cable soldered P1000185.jpg[/IMG] This is other end of batt ground cablt soldered into my wiring system. This is main wiring fot headlights, fans on passenger side. This is wiring on block from batt ground. This is all 6 coil pack and 2 trasmission grounds. Grounds across front of engine. Grounds for all drivers side IPDM stuff headlights fans other. Will post more as it happens. when you takr this peice off the stock airbox you have an 4" hole same as stillen pop charger at a cost of $$$$$$$ and you can snap it back on for the winter sue me for being smart!!!!!!! will no longer post to ingrates 06G35X runs perfect no mods.

 

Is it worth buying the stillen groundinDOMOg kit for 100$ or just get the wire and connectors?

 

^Get the wire and connectors

 

In reality, they don't do a damn thing unless you are a Ham Radio operator (like me) and you want to lower the noise floor on HF frequencies. It made no "performance" improvement to mine. However, I have read here that they work the best on AT cars, smoothing out the shifts etc.

 

No grounding kit is going to "boost" performance. But, I see them as a way to help the electrical systems be better protected. Its the same concept when dealing with car audio, you don't want excessive signals/voltage/current running through the circuit boards.

 

I could agree with that.

 

For that last picture you posted, which piece are you refering to?? I can't really tell in the picture. I wanna take that piece off my stock airbox too.

 

Ofc > cca