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What kind of engine oil should I use?

Old Mar 13, 2020 | 11:26 AM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by G2B35AGN
Man, you make it sound like our engines explode six times with every turn of the crank. It's a miracle we even get down to the corner in the morning!
Well it's a 4 stroke engine so it only explodes 6 times every 2 rotations.

Technically the oil is exploding on every cylinder combustion stroke The oil at the bottom of the connecting rod bearing takes all the abuse. The oil between the cam and the lifter bucket is the second highest shear point.
 
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Old Mar 13, 2020 | 12:52 PM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by Isaac Vinales
What part of South Dakota are you located at? I’m in Sioux Falls basically every day.

Sorry man just saw this, I'm not super sctive on here. I was living west river in Rapid City. But now i live in the pan handle.
 
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Old Mar 14, 2020 | 01:02 PM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by cleric670
I personally use Valvoline VR1 10w30. It's not much more expensive than any other conventional oil but it has all the same zinc/phosphate levels that GL3 oil used to have which is basically what the VQ35DE was designed to run with.
I add an STP oil additive that has the ZDDP additive (the blue bottle). I picked up about half a case of them at $1.50/each when my local OSH was closing down. I added one bottle to Mboil1 5w-30 at my last oil change (first one for the car). Going to send my oil to Blackstone next change. I've also heard of people using Rotella diesel oils because they have a higher zinc content, though I'm not sure about running diesel oil in a gasoline powered car. Thoughts?
 
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Old Mar 14, 2020 | 02:03 PM
  #64  
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There is really no such thing as "diesel oil" there is just "oil viscosity" and the chemistry behind it.

People call it diesel oil because typically they are engineered to run higher viscosity like 15w-40. (EDIT: Higher viscosity oils like this typically have higher zinc/phosphate levels because diesel engines follow a slightly different set of rules than gasoline as far as ILSAC and API requirements are concerned).

I would definitely not do this, the bearing clearances, oil pump, everything, was engineered around a specific viscosity. They give you two options in the owners manual, cold weather, hot weather. If you track the car you would probably use 10w-40 for autocross.

As for that additive, it's specifically designed to raise zinc levels to around 2500 which is what your old SBC-era motors with flat tappet cams/lifters needed. There's a COLOSSAL amount of friction between the edge of that slightly rounded lifter and the camshaft and it requires a godlike level of zinc to prevent premature wear.

For use in the G35 I would probably add half the bottle, I assume they estimate that the oil you are modifying has a zinc level of 800 and you are trying to achieve something around 1500-2000 for flat tappet. The G35 was designed for around 1200 so you would only need half the bottle.

Getting a blackstone test is perfect, just be sure to use an actual measured amount of additive and to get the spec sheet for your oil so you know EXACTLY what they're measuring. Every oil manufacturer uses different chemistry, the blackstone will report back zinc and phosphate levels so you can use those to reference how much you are actually getting in your oil in addition to how much wearable material the oil is carrying from engine wear. They also usually give a short description and analysis of your report and will tell you things that could potentially be wrong.
 
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