It doesn't blow any hot air at idle even with the engine fully warm and the blower turned up one of the higher setting? Are you using the auto climate control function or manual. Can you hear the blower motor when it's on?

It's quite possible the issue you're having is related to a vacuum or weak vacuum solenoid. Under the dash (passenger side) is box with a door what opens and closes between the heater core or AC evap based on if you want hot or cold air. This door is often vacuum actuated with vacuum solenoid. At idle, vacuum is high and depending on throttle input, vacuum will rise and fall. If there is a leak or actuator problem, the door's operation will be inconsistent and may vary with speed. This exact problem you're describing is quite common with cars, especially Jeep GCs. I'm unsure if the G uses vacuum or an electronic motor to operate the blower door. I believe the door is accessible once you remove the lower passenger dash (do a search for cabin filter replacement). It is possible something might be blocking the door, not letting the unit distribute heat correctly at idle.

That's it for my "expert" opinion.

 

I disagree. Most problems described on this site, and most any other site can for that matter, can be diagnosed because the problems are often common between a lot of makes. It's worth a shot trying to diagnose a problem with your car or getting assistances from another DIYer. Why not take the initiative to diagnose and try to fix cars, houses, etc. yourself if you feel you have the capability and are willing to give it that good old college try? I've saved thousands of dollars over the years fixing cars for family and friends and doing home repair myself. Sure, there's always risk fixing it yourself, but there's also a lot of pride knowing you're the one that did it.

 

It does the same thing (doesnt blow heat at idle) whether it's in auto or manual, cranked up to 90. A/C works like it should. The heat works fine while I drive.

I am stubborn about going to the dealer or repair shops and do find a sense of accompishment in fixing things myself. I am all about saving myself thousands and have been doing so for years.

I appreciate ALL if the input that I have received about my questions, and will take any advise I can get. You guys, as a group are a wealth of knowledge that I'm glad I can tap into when I need advise. Thanks!

I'll keep you posted on the outcome of my issues and ask more questions along the way....

 

Really depends on oil mainteances and brand and viscosity.
Obviously a high quality fully synthetic has the best chance of prolonging. the expense and noise.
If you spend $100 more per year on oil [90 day change intervals] and extend repairs that seems a decent trade off.

 

Your coolant level might be low. That might expain why you only get heat when the water pump is finally able to move enough water though the heator core.

It's an easy enough thing to check. If it's not that then, you might have something difficult to diagnosis. Nothing wrong with a few cheap suggestions though.

If you have problems feel free to post them. I'll make a decent effort to at least steer you in the right direction or point to a thread if I've seen a similar problem. We should either try to honestly help the guy or not post in this thread at all.

 

Coolant is good to go, I checked that. Normally that would be a good sign, but I checked it before I asked the question. I assume its a vacuum problem.

I'm going to tear into it this weekend. Valve noise first, then heat. I found a dealer, through my buddy at the GM parts counter thats open Saturday with a full compliment of shims and/ or buckets that "wont mind" to open up Sunday if needed (might cost me a 12 pack), so I'm going for it...

I have a good "support group" to lend me a hand, so I hope we can get it apart while its warm, otherwise we'll be cleaning oil up afterwards to get the hot clearances... Wish me luck.

 

so are you diving in to do the adjustment or what? post pics if you do...

 

Sounds like a bubble needs to be burped out of your cooling system.

 

hey all, here's my experience so far. I am no expert by any means, but i figured a pretty in depth story would help. Also, i figured that any input anyone has might help me in the process too.

PREFACE:I have driven the car pretty hard. I have tacked it out quite a few times, mostly drifting, so there is reason to beleive that my engine has some abnormal wear.

The noise i was hearing was a ticking or a tapping, however you want describe it. But it was really loud and got faster and slower as the engine speeds got faster and slower. After listening closely, all around the engine, with a stethoscope and also with just my ears, i found the problem to be most likely in the front/passenger side of the engine.

With the service manual, i dove into ripping the engine apart. I have been maticulous about labeling everything, because as many said, this job is a pain in the a**. After i got the valve cover off, i began doing my valve clearance measurements(As i understand this is the clearances between the cam lobes and the lifters)***the reason for the parenthesis is because the wording was kind of awkward in the manual because it actually has a measurement for "valve lifter clearnace". From what i understand from the service manual the clearances for the exhaust lobes are supposed to be .011 inches to .015 inches. As i measured, this is what i found:

1.) a few clearances were fine
2.) a few clearances were at the latter part of the specs
3.) 1 clearance in particular was at .025 inches and i could have gone even bigger i just didn't have the bigger feeler gauges.
4.) my intake clearances were all pretty decent or slightly at the latter part of spec

**the one really off clearance was very noticable. If you look at each of the cam lobes to lifter meeting points, there are no gaps to the naked eye. However, the bigger clearance had a gap that you could see straight through. Light showing through it and all.

So, at this point, i guess the head has to come off. From what i understand, i have to replace the shim with a larger shim to slim down the clearance.

What is everyone's thoughts? P.S. sorry it's a book, i just wanted to offer as much information as i could.

-Cameron

 

I don't think the head has to come off but I do believe the cam has to come out. That means the front covers too.

 

See that's where it goes a little bit blurry with being able to get answers. My understanding is that the shims that have to be replaced are under the springs. I assumed the head would have to come out to get the springs off, but maybe i'm wrong. If i am wrong then that's some pretty damn good news hahah.?!?!

-Cameron

 

I'll have to review the fsm again but I'm fairly sure the head stays. I also "think" the shims/buckets are above the valve spring/retainers. So they don't have to be removed either. But double check. If you have to remove the springs/retainers then the valve is going to drop down into the cylinder.

 

Jeff, what you say, makes a lot of sense and i have been told basically the same idea by others too. But when i went to through the service manual pictures where it breaks down the entire head and what is in it, there are no shims up top. In fact, to be honest, there are no shims labeled anywhere because i guess that is a "lamens term" versus the actual term. I have had a hard time understanding what the actual manufacturers term is for a shim. One thing i do know, is that our heads have solid lifters, so there aren't any shims like most other 2 piece lifters. If you can help me understand that, then i might be able to look at the service manual and clarify where the actual shims are. Thanks for the convo back an forth. This is going be a great deal of help and hopefully it helps others.

-Cameron

 

Check section EM-60 for valve adjustment. EM-58 for the cam removal and EM-75 for an exploded view of the head/valve train. It looks like the lifter sits on top of the valve spring/retainer assembly. Since the spring removal isn't mentioned in the adjustment section EM-60, I'll ASSUME that it can be taken off with the valve/spring/retainer intact.

I had to dig as I couldn't see where the damned spring/retainer was until I could view the exploded view.

 

Front passenger side of the motor? As in front of the engine or top? The reason I ask is it could possibly be the timing chain tensioner, but I don't remember what side it's on.

As for the shims, the heads don't have to come off. Just the cam(s).