AS PUTTING MY FLYWHEEL ON MY NEW ENGINE, WAS USING A TORQUE WRENCH TO TORQUE DOWN TO 93FT-LBS
ONE OF THE BOLTS HEADS SNAPPED RIGHT OFF
WHAT DO I DO?

CAN I RUN THE ENGINE WITH 7 OR IS THAT A HELL NO?

THIS IS SO AGGRAVATING...


SHOULD I REPLACE ALL THE FLYWHEEL BOLTS WITH NEW ONES?

HOW DO I GET THE BOLT OUT WITHOUT RUINING THE CRANK?



Nevermind I took the flywheel off and there was enough of the bolt to get it out by hand.

 

I'd replace all the flywheel bolts.
May want to run a tap or rethreading tool into those threads while you're there

 

Where did you see 93ft-lbs for the flywheel bolts?

 

It's in the service manual somewhere. It actually says to torque to 90ft-lbs then back out to apply loctite and torque to 93ft-lbs

I ordered 8 new flywheel bolts on Z1 and had them shipped next day. I just got done putting the new ones in and so far so good.

While I was putting the pressure plate back on the bolts felt like they wouldn't get any tighter at some point. I had my torque wrench set to 40ft-lbs (service manual says 39ft-lbs)
but I didn't get a click, I'm wondering if I should order new bolts for the pressure plate or if I need shorter/longer bolts because of the aftermarket flywheel (Z1)

 

I only asked because it sounded high to me and when I checked the FSM I could only find 65ft-lbs.

 

I was on Z1s website and saw the torque specs for flywheel and pressure plate. 62-68 and 26-32

 

Try using a caliper (harbor freight has them) to measure the length of the flywheel bolts vs the depth of the threads on the crank + flywheel

 

So today I was putting the transmission onto the engine and was having a hard time so I did a "dry run" (took the pressure plate and clutch disc out) and they mated together fine. So when I was putting the pressure plate back on one of those bolts snapped! WTF right, I bolted the transmission up anyway, I've got to work the next 4 days so I can't get anything done on the car. I ordered 9 new pressure plate bolts today, I'll probably pull the tranny and replace all those bolts next week.

 

90 NEWTON METERS (nM), which equals 65 ft/lbs.

That's why you broke the bolt off. I would tear everything apart and retorque since everything is about 40% overtorqued.

 

Same thing with those pressure plate bolts, you're not looking at ft/lbs you're looking at nM.

You must have looked at something completely different because here's the torque specs listed on the Z1 website.

 

I got my flywheel/pressure plate numbers from the factory service manual. What I didn't know was that those numbers changed when you put different parts on.

Like I said I ordered all new flywheel bolts and those are already on. On the second go around I had my wrench set to 80 ft-lbs but I only tightened them until I felt comfortable (never got the audible click from the wrench) but I knew the damn flywheel wasn't coming off.

I put the transmission back together with the one snapped pressure plate bolt (the head of the bolt I found, it's not in the transmission) out of frustration. Later that night I ordered all new bolts for the pressure plate.

I am going to pull it back apart and replace all those bolts (I didn't order new washers I figured the ones I have would be fine).

One of the reasons all these bolts are in such bad shape is becayuse of the previous mechanic I had do all the clutch work had the transmission attached and torn apart over 3 times. He installed my 6 puck clutch disc backwards are ruined it. He also "jimmy" rigged my rear main seal the very first time I brought him the car to install the Z1 flywheel / clutch. That's why the seal leaked and ruined my 1st clutch disc (unsprung full face). Mechanic ruined the 2nd disc (6 puck style) and then managed to get another full face unsprung disc in there with the new main seal PROPERLY installed by dropping the oil pan. I guess the first time he didn't drop the pan and somehow got the seal in but thats why it leaked.

Any ways this is why I decided to do all this myself, because I can't trust anyone to do it properly (also I didn't have the money to pay anyone) but I enjoy working on my car and I truly have a way better understanding of how everything works and comes together as a whole. I installed all my mods myself (except the flywheel/clutch see above). But now that I have pulled the engine, swapped all my parts over to the new one and am getting ready to drop the new engine in I don't think I'll ever have someone else work on my car now.

No one else is going to take the time to unwrap the stock wire harness and re wrap it nice nice unless you pay them hundreds of dollars and then they will still mess something up because it's not their car and they could care less if something isn't perfect.

I ordered the Motordyne Aramid gasket (the one that goes between the combustion chamber and the lower plenum) when I ordered those bolts so that will get installed as well when I switch over to my painted plenum and 75mm throttle body.

Can't wait to get my car back on the road...

 

No what I'm telling you is you are MISREADING the FSM, the first number is NEWTON METERS of torque. Inside the parenthesis is KG/M and next to that is FT/LB which is what you want.

Here's a picture of the flywheel torque FROM THE FSM with the editing to show which is nM which is Kg/M and which is the FT/LB.

You want foot pounds, ft/lb.

 

This little notation in the corner of every page of the FSM that has an exploded view with torque explains it all. First number is nM, inside the parenthesis first is Kg/M then FT/LB.