I have a 2005 G35 Sedan with mods and the check engine light has been coming on. I have had it checked out and nothing is wrong with the car. I just tried the ecu reset and it worked great on the first try. Thanks for the info.

 

did you have the car scanned to find out what the CEL was for????

 

The code is for Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 2). This all started when I put on a skunk2 plenum spacer and new iridium spark plugs. I accidently switched two of the coil packs and didn't realize it. A tow to the dealership and $300 dollars later I was on the road. Apperantly this caused a misfire and it damaged the o2 sensor. I drag it at infenion raceway and its faster than ever so i dont worry about it. Go to dragtimes.com and you can see a picture of it.

 

OK - so how does the car run? From your post, it runs fine...Again, sorry if I'm repeating anything here - I post alot and don't always have time to review.

Which coils did you burn up? Which were replaced? If I'm a betting man - you switched 4 & 6....right?

If so - swap them to bank one - see if the error follows the coils...then let me know...you may have something else out of wack as well...

Rick

 

I just did the ecu reset now after putting it off for sometime after hearing many unsuccessful stories. But I pretty much got it in 3 attempts. I have an AT with intake & the 1/2 spacer and I was beginning to think that the $ I spent for the spacer wasn't worth it since the time i installed it, when I would drive in full auto mode, anytime I would try to accelerate hard it would rev then it would choke a bit, but I feel the difference now. Even my girlfriend felt the difference and she's not even into cars. I'm gonna do it again this week to make sure I did it right.

 

Pedal method is definitely more convenient - the battery disconnect is more gauranteed...

 

idk i read somewhere on here that just by dissconecting the positive end of the battery and wait like 2 hours that resets the ecu as well...

 

It's only 8 minutes...not 2 hours.

In fact - if you just pull the harness on and off the ECU - a whole 2 seconds worth - your done as well..

Rick

 

The pedal procedure isn't too hard. It took me a few tries, but I got it done in less than 5 minutes.

.

 

The key to it is the first 3 second timing. Turn the key, and as soon as the gauges light up - start counting...

 

I did this reset and now my check engine light blinks frequently...
bummed out.
For the 12 hour reset, do I just disconnect the battery for 12 hours?

 

OK - you messed up the timing from the first 10 seconds with the pedal down to the time without the pedal.

You should try it again..shouldn't be an issue. If you want to do the battery disconnect method - forget about 12 hours - that's hokus pokus.

Disconnect the negative terminal and time out 8 minutes - or up to 10 - any more is a complete waste. Then put the key in the ON position, but don't try to start the car. Push and hold the brake pedal for a minimum of 30 seconds - not more than 60 is really needed. (it actually only needs 14 seconds for the capacitors to drain).

Remove the key, replace the negative terminal and start eh car - all done in less than 20 minutes.

Make sure you let the car idle, without hitting the gas pedal for about 30 seconds, then tap a few times, then drive it...

Rick

 

is it essential for the timing to be accurate for that procedure?

 

You need to hit the minimums - the maximums ar really so you don't waste time needlessly.

I do mine every month - takes me less than 15 minutes for the whole process.

Rick

 

okay, gotcha!

one more (real quick), do i have to start the engine after the process? take it for a spin? i want to do it, but i dont want to wake anybody up. nor do i feel like driving

-jeff