Catchin' Oil
#46
05-03-2006, 07:16 PM
Originally Posted by Brando
My car must be a freak....... 
Now with 27K miles on her.....boosted w/ Vortech.....I can't tell that I use even a drop of oil between 4K changes.
I installed a catch can on top of my intercooler when I installed the SC, and hooked it up the same was as described here.
I can't see any oil in the lines or in the view tube on the can.
Oh well, knock on wood.....car is running GREAT!
Now with 27K miles on her.....boosted w/ Vortech.....I can't tell that I use even a drop of oil between 4K changes.
I installed a catch can on top of my intercooler when I installed the SC, and hooked it up the same was as described here.
I can't see any oil in the lines or in the view tube on the can.
Oh well, knock on wood.....car is running GREAT!
How your FI beast runiing these days? Anyone pick on you lately?
DaveO
#48
05-03-2006, 07:43 PM
Originally Posted by Brando
My car must be a freak.......
Now with 27K miles on her.....boosted w/ Vortech.....I can't tell that I use even a drop of oil between 4K changes.
I installed a catch can on top of my intercooler when I installed the SC, and hooked it up the same was as described here.
I can't see any oil in the lines or in the view tube on the can.
Oh well, knock on wood.....car is running GREAT!
Now with 27K miles on her.....boosted w/ Vortech.....I can't tell that I use even a drop of oil between 4K changes.
I installed a catch can on top of my intercooler when I installed the SC, and hooked it up the same was as described here.
I can't see any oil in the lines or in the view tube on the can.
Oh well, knock on wood.....car is running GREAT!
Just for the heck of it! I would hook up a vacuum gage to you catch can (PVC) and see if its pulling a vacuum at idle. The plus side of doing this check is, if you start seeing a drop in vacuum at idle, something is going south in your engine. FI guys should do this just for safe measures. NA guys should just do it so you know how your "state of tune is! The higher your vacuum, the more driveabilty.
#49
05-03-2006, 08:51 PM
Originally Posted by GEE PASTA
Terry
Just for the heck of it! I would hook up a vacuum gage to you catch can (PVC) and see if its pulling a vacuum at idle. The plus side of doing this check is, if you start seeing a drop in vacuum at idle, something is going south in your engine. FI guys should do this just for safe measures. NA guys should just do it so you know how your "state of tune is! The higher your vacuum, the more driveabilty.
Just for the heck of it! I would hook up a vacuum gage to you catch can (PVC) and see if its pulling a vacuum at idle. The plus side of doing this check is, if you start seeing a drop in vacuum at idle, something is going south in your engine. FI guys should do this just for safe measures. NA guys should just do it so you know how your "state of tune is! The higher your vacuum, the more driveabilty.
I don't quite know how to phrase this question, but . . . With regard to this oil catch bowl set-up, can you tell by looking at the hoses coming from the PCV valve to the bowl and from the bowl to the lower collector, if you have more or less vacuum? If so, what would one be looking for?
#50
05-03-2006, 08:59 PM
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If the motor is FI, oil in the intake stream could mean the difference between no detonation, and detonation.
Oil vapors LOWER the octane of the gasoline, and I've seen it before on the dyno. Typical honda boys never hook up their PCV system, putting a small filter on the valve cover from which gasses are supposed to vent.
Not thinking that at 7000+ rpm, the little 1/2" tube is going to vent the pressure building up inside the crankcase..... WRONG..
In any case, if the motor is super high compression (static) and tuned to the hilt NA, you might see some benifit to this, although at that point you'ld want to be looking at a dry-sump system or perhaps a vac pump to evac the crank case as well.
All that hose is doing is burning crankcase gasses, which contain oil vapor. This will lower the octane rating of your gas, but again, unless you have a lot of timing, super high compression, or FI, it isn't really going to be something that I believe benifits you. 1-2hp might add up, but not in a 3400lb car
If you want to do it, I'd recommend getting a catch can made up with some stainless wool or some other media to help trap the oil vapor (give it something to cling to). If you wanted to be really trick, plumb the bottom of the catch can so that the collected oil will drain back into the system.
my .02
Oil vapors LOWER the octane of the gasoline, and I've seen it before on the dyno. Typical honda boys never hook up their PCV system, putting a small filter on the valve cover from which gasses are supposed to vent.
Not thinking that at 7000+ rpm, the little 1/2" tube is going to vent the pressure building up inside the crankcase..... WRONG..
In any case, if the motor is super high compression (static) and tuned to the hilt NA, you might see some benifit to this, although at that point you'ld want to be looking at a dry-sump system or perhaps a vac pump to evac the crank case as well.
All that hose is doing is burning crankcase gasses, which contain oil vapor. This will lower the octane rating of your gas, but again, unless you have a lot of timing, super high compression, or FI, it isn't really going to be something that I believe benifits you. 1-2hp might add up, but not in a 3400lb car
If you want to do it, I'd recommend getting a catch can made up with some stainless wool or some other media to help trap the oil vapor (give it something to cling to). If you wanted to be really trick, plumb the bottom of the catch can so that the collected oil will drain back into the system.
my .02
#51
05-03-2006, 09:04 PM
Originally Posted by andy2434
Dennis,
I don't quite know how to phrase this question, but . . . With regard to this oil catch bowl set-up, can you tell by looking at the hoses coming from the PCV valve to the bowl and from the bowl to the lower collector, if you have more or less vacuum? If so, what would one be looking for?
I don't quite know how to phrase this question, but . . . With regard to this oil catch bowl set-up, can you tell by looking at the hoses coming from the PCV valve to the bowl and from the bowl to the lower collector, if you have more or less vacuum? If so, what would one be looking for?
#52
05-03-2006, 09:55 PM
Originally Posted by Cracker Red
If you want to do it, I'd recommend getting a catch can made up with some stainless wool or some other media to help trap the oil vapor (give it something to cling to).
#53
05-03-2006, 10:47 PM
Cool mod you guys are doing. I don't really know if it's needed, but it certainly can't hurt.
Just some info to think about. A 2-stroke engine typically burns one quart of 2-stroke oil for every 10 gallons of gas (that's about every 200 miles in our cars for you non-math guys ). A Mazda Renesis engine burns about one quart of oil for every 2,000 miles, depending on driving habits. This oil is normal engine oil, pulled from the engine's oil pan and injected directly into the intake. Neither of these engines suffer damage due to this amount of oil being added. But, they both were designed to burn oil, and our VQs weren't. Therefore, I reserve judgment.
Curt
Just some info to think about. A 2-stroke engine typically burns one quart of 2-stroke oil for every 10 gallons of gas (that's about every 200 miles in our cars for you non-math guys
). A Mazda Renesis engine burns about one quart of oil for every 2,000 miles, depending on driving habits. This oil is normal engine oil, pulled from the engine's oil pan and injected directly into the intake. Neither of these engines suffer damage due to this amount of oil being added. But, they both were designed to burn oil, and our VQs weren't. Therefore, I reserve judgment. Curt
#54
05-03-2006, 10:50 PM
Originally Posted by Cracker Red
If the motor is FI, oil in the intake stream could mean the difference between no detonation, and detonation.
Oil vapors LOWER the octane of the gasoline, and I've seen it before on the dyno. Typical honda boys never hook up their PCV system, putting a small filter on the valve cover from which gasses are supposed to vent.
Not thinking that at 7000+ rpm, the little 1/2" tube is going to vent the pressure building up inside the crankcase..... WRONG..
In any case, if the motor is super high compression (static) and tuned to the hilt NA, you might see some benifit to this, although at that point you'ld want to be looking at a dry-sump system or perhaps a vac pump to evac the crank case as well.
All that hose is doing is burning crankcase gasses, which contain oil vapor. This will lower the octane rating of your gas, but again, unless you have a lot of timing, super high compression, or FI, it isn't really going to be something that I believe benifits you. 1-2hp might add up, but not in a 3400lb car
If you want to do it, I'd recommend getting a catch can made up with some stainless wool or some other media to help trap the oil vapor (give it something to cling to). If you wanted to be really trick, plumb the bottom of the catch can so that the collected oil will drain back into the system.
my .02
Oil vapors LOWER the octane of the gasoline, and I've seen it before on the dyno. Typical honda boys never hook up their PCV system, putting a small filter on the valve cover from which gasses are supposed to vent.
Not thinking that at 7000+ rpm, the little 1/2" tube is going to vent the pressure building up inside the crankcase..... WRONG..
In any case, if the motor is super high compression (static) and tuned to the hilt NA, you might see some benifit to this, although at that point you'ld want to be looking at a dry-sump system or perhaps a vac pump to evac the crank case as well.
All that hose is doing is burning crankcase gasses, which contain oil vapor. This will lower the octane rating of your gas, but again, unless you have a lot of timing, super high compression, or FI, it isn't really going to be something that I believe benifits you. 1-2hp might add up, but not in a 3400lb car
If you want to do it, I'd recommend getting a catch can made up with some stainless wool or some other media to help trap the oil vapor (give it something to cling to). If you wanted to be really trick, plumb the bottom of the catch can so that the collected oil will drain back into the system.
my .02
#55
05-03-2006, 11:19 PM
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Whitey with red hair.... those days in college not to long ago is where I picked it up
I think this is a worthwhile mod for a FI car for sure, but the wool or other "media" is going to be far more effective in getting the vapor out of the air than just a tube. IMHO, what you are getting in there is residue that is condensing on the hose/collector. It's helping, but some stainless wool in a much larger container would be far more effective.
On the dyno, a good catch can/oil seperator has been the difference between 2-3 deg's more timing, which can be a substantial torque gain. (20ft lbs..)
I think this is a worthwhile mod for a FI car for sure, but the wool or other "media" is going to be far more effective in getting the vapor out of the air than just a tube. IMHO, what you are getting in there is residue that is condensing on the hose/collector. It's helping, but some stainless wool in a much larger container would be far more effective.
On the dyno, a good catch can/oil seperator has been the difference between 2-3 deg's more timing, which can be a substantial torque gain. (20ft lbs..)
Last edited by Cracker Red; 05-03-2006 at 11:22 PM.
#56
05-03-2006, 11:30 PM
Originally Posted by Cracker Red
Whitey with red hair.... those days in college not to long ago is where I picked it up
I think this is a worthwhile mod for a FI car for sure, but the wool or other "media" is going to be far more effective in getting the vapor out of the air than just a tube. IMHO, what you are getting in there is residue that is condensing on the hose/collector. It's helping, but some stainless wool in a much larger container would be far more effective.
On the dyno, a good catch can/oil seperator has been the difference between 2-3 deg's more timing, which can be a substantial torque gain. (20ft lbs..)
I think this is a worthwhile mod for a FI car for sure, but the wool or other "media" is going to be far more effective in getting the vapor out of the air than just a tube. IMHO, what you are getting in there is residue that is condensing on the hose/collector. It's helping, but some stainless wool in a much larger container would be far more effective.
On the dyno, a good catch can/oil seperator has been the difference between 2-3 deg's more timing, which can be a substantial torque gain. (20ft lbs..)
37000 members here, and Im stupid. A breath of freah air!!
#57
05-04-2006, 02:07 AM
Has anyone here installed a traditional oil catch can on their G's? Based on the amount of oil having already having been trapped in the makeshift oil catch bowl and knowing that probably more is getting by the same . . . I will be taking another look and getting and installing a real oil catch can. Whether or not the oil vapors are harmful or not to the engine in the long run . . . I simply do not like the idea of this happening. This will be the very need thing that I will do.
#58
05-04-2006, 11:27 AM
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#59
05-04-2006, 12:50 PM
Originally Posted by Cracker Red
It's got nothing to do with harming the motor. It has everything to do with effectivly lowering the octane rating of the gasoline, and the subsequent required reduction in timing. Not having the timing curve set properly would however harm the motor.....
Cars like GM's LS1 and many VTEC Hondas can suffer from performance-degrading oil consumption mostly because the valve covers are really tiny and very short in relation to the rockers, etc. This allows fairly significant amounts of oil to enter the manifold. The clearance on the VQ covers isn't near as bad.
