I have a stage 3 GTM tranny. Motor is tuned with uprev at GTM.
I also have hot start issues.

My dyno looks nothing like yours. Was your tuner shifting during the dyno? If not, the motor shouldn't be "throttling down" in the middle of a WOT run.
I think the dip in your graph possibly has something to do with your TC. Did you upgrade your TC?
I'm no transmission pro so I don't know but my guess the problem in my case would be faulty solenoids and or tuning adjustments probably the later. My tranny never did this stock.
Again... it seems to shift hard and correctly when at WOT.

 

Something like this the right direction to go? I saw your S1 suggestion... figured maybe this might be better just for stability as they say...

Probably not happening any time soon but if I am going to start collecting bits and pieces to work towards that objective I figure I'd get started off on the right foot.

Frick man- not going to lie I'm glad I'm not the only one who hasn't been able to drive his car a lot lately but I'm sure looking forward to hearing some results from that monster you have hiding in your garage right now!

 

I think you want S7s, similar to the S1 but for rev-up I have the C2s and it idles a little rough....sounds like it means business

here is the list if you want a little read.

http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/customer_results.asp

 

Keep in mind I'm a non-revup... which is why my tranny cost 5k to build as opposed to 1000

So to go with the full built longblock, with the heads generally consisting of JWT parts (because what I'm seeing suggests they are kickass) this is the cost of the hardware:

Probably a used set of heads that I can get built while still driving the car: ~200-250
Cams: ~1100
Springs / shims: ~250


Okay to use stock valves? My understanding is they're pretty efficient.

 

I thought you were rev-up for some reason anyway I did fully port and polish and oversize valves but I think it is over kill. If I did it again I would do mild cams and JWT springs, this way you can leave the engine in the car/heads on the engine. JWT has a tool that allows you to change springs with the heads on the engine I had Lightspeed do mine but I think it basically pushed air into the head in order to keep the valves from dropping into the cylinder while changing springs.

 

Just to set the record straight about the 5AT, my GTM built 5AT (and FP basic motor build with JWT S2 cams and 700bb turbos) has never lagged going from 1-2. It is absolutely instant and knock on wood has been going strong for nearly 30k miles running at least 15 psi most of the time. Only the 4-5 shift is a little slower than the rest (because I believe the VB upgrade does nothing for the 4-5 shift). Something is wrong with the install if you are having a problem with 1-2, 2-3, or 3-4.

That dynograph above looks pretty poor for 18 psi (the 700bb are pretty much tapped out at that point as you are probably past 22 psi at the compressor outlet). I agree with others, that something else is up - maybe a boost leak. Was a boost leak test performed? Ask for an overlay that shows 12-18 psi in 1-2 psi increments along with boost and AFR. The sudden drop off at 4800 is just not right. You can get cheap mechanical boost gauges and attach them to the nipples at the compressor outlet pipes to troubleshoot if you are so inclined to identify if only one side has an issue.

 

^^^I agree with Raj on the trans issue as mine has never had any kind of delay with any of the gears except 4-5 shift.

 

The guys from the area indicated you can "safely" add 15% to that number which puts it at around 440/460. Still seems low to me considering but when I look at my stock plenum and only 5/16ths spacer I start to understand where my breathing may be restricted. I'd like to see those numbers at 10-12psi... not 18. By 18 I'm expecting to be in the 5s but I think I need to look at my plenum before that happens.

As for the 1-2 shift... Intec was telling me to use the manumatic shifting which I haven't been doing as much as I should- and that's usually where the lag is. And to be honest and more detailed in my description I've been taking it a bit easy on things because of the open dif... which will be rectified this week. The Quaife arrived in Van last week and they just didn't get a chance to install it. (I'm away at work anyway). Once that's in I'll have more confidence in opening things up more aggressively and I'll report back.

One other thing worth mentioning is MNR has worked with one of the GTM transmissions before and noted that it was much harder shifting than mine- which feels more stock-like. I wonder if that's what is contributing to mushier shifts?

As for the boost leak- there was one, but they fixed it before finishing things off (obviously). I'm going to assume they had some means of detecting it? I can ask them a little more about it on Friday when I go pick up the car.

I've asked for MNR to send the log / rom file down to Intec so their Uprev pro tuner (Lawrence) can take a look at things and see what he says. I need to remind myself that these guys weren't pushing for numbers- they were simply dialing in the new MAF to something efficient and "safe" through the boost range.

I'm trying to get down to Intec mid-month or so... where I'm hoping we'll see what she was built to do.

 

Your plenum is NOT the restriction. I run a 1/2" spacer and stock plenum. I have tried a Crawford and a Cosworth with only minimal difference between all 3 setups. Still into the 500 whp range (525 whp on a DJ STD) at 15 psi with all 3 setups (465-485 DD). By the way, on the DD using W/M injection, going from 15 psi to 18.5 psi I went from 475 whp/485 wtq to 521 whp/580 wtq. I have not redyno'd on a Dynojet at 18.5 psi (max boost for me spraying w/m).

 

Eh Dash... I hear what you're saying but I went with the Cosie anyway... a bit about the look... a bit about the potential, real or imaginary- I guess we'll see soon enough. I'm going to drive the car a bit and cool my upgrade jets for awhile and look into the heads. Pick up pieces of opportunity- you know.

On a side note... getting the Quaife put in and the guys from the shop assumed- as one would- that the auto G35 dif would be the same as that of the auto 350z dif. Not so. In fact, it turns out that the auto dif on the G is the same as the MT open dif on the 350z. As a result, my install has been delayed until the RIGHT Quaife arrives... hopefully tuesday.

Rob, that is something you'll need to keep your eye on!

 

it was my knowledge that all G35 and 350z Open diffs were the same... thats weird.

went to the track today for the first time. had fun but made me want a LSD even more.

 

^They are, its just the configuration between the Z and G were different.

 

Measurement to measurement, looking at the spec sheet, MNR was saying that the quaife designed / measured for the 350z MT is the right one. I went in and looked at them side by side and if it's 3/8ths of an inch off... it's VERY close but this isn't a horseshoe or hand grenade unfortunately.

 

What exactly was modified?
I had the same issues with my RB calipers. Instead, I got tired of messing with mine and just removed the shims.

 

Hmmmm...

To be honest they showed me but I wouldn't know enough to tell you specifics enough to help. It wasn't a big deal as they described it- I'm going to be down there on Friday... want me to ask? Seymore was around then I think and if he's browsing through this thread maybe he can chime in...

Otherwise, give me until the weekend and I'll see if I can get more answers for you.