+1 good luck!

 

Eh guys... well numbers were a bit on the low side but she's complete at least until Intec gets on it- which may be mid-late october if my current schedule is any indication.

Numbers standing were 383HP / 401TQ at 18psi. Again, like I was saying over in my350z that's a LOT of boost for low numbers but the shop pointed out that most G35 ATs tuned with a few bolt ons only put up 180HP / 200TQ on that dyno. It is not the friend of those looking for numbers- and I knew that going in.

When I consider that most similar G35 ATs pull about 240 or so on a dyno when similarly equipped... I start doing the math and suddenly we're in the ballpark for the 450 or so that I was expecting.

I am a bit confused about why the wastegate pressure pulls generated almost the same HP as the 18psi but I'll have to wait to get those answers. I pick up the car tomorrow and will make sure I post about the details. They have photos and video / dyno sheets as well that I look forward to sharing.

 

seems a bit low... 5ATs don't have THAT much drive train loss.

on a mustang dyno that reads low I started at 230 with HFC, Exhaust, Intake
added spacer, port and polished intake manifold and headers and I made 244
cams got me to around 247 but changed up the power band completely
art pipes then got me to 250 but a lot more low end power
finally with the small bit of tuning he did I got to 260

threw on the supercharger and put on a bigger exhaust 2.25 dual to 2.75 dual and had him tune it and I made 350/283 @ 6.5 psi

something seems wrong that you are making that much power off 18 psi.

I know a guy local that has a built G with greddy twins and is pushing 470hp/480tq at 16 psi. he is 6MT but even with drivetrain losses he is well above yours.

 

I know its different dynos, setups and location but those numbers definitely seem low. From what I've heard, drivetrain loss averages 20% with the autos.

 

Well way I look at it if an at g bolted up at with a tune makes 180 on that Dyno and a guy makes 240 on a mustang with the same approximate car then we see the variance. It's just a number but I'm going to wager that I'd make at least 440 / 460. They're not saying it's that low because of my car... It's just a bad number Dyno. Though as much as I want to sit here and rationalize it and justify it I'm kind of disappointed.

 

look at this as a break in round 2, you dont want to go FULL boost, then come on down to my next of the woods and see what they can squeeze out of it. after all joe is now putting down 570.... all kinds of crazyness in that thing.

 

Okay boys... well I picked up the car- it's like a greased weasel. I talked to the guys about the relatively low numbers and a couple of things became apparent to me: The DE non revup sucks. Actually- it doesn't suck. It blows. Actually... it doesn't blow.

Some of you might be thinking "okay... cams." Well, that was what I was getting at.

Yeah, cams... Great...

I seem to recall just saying I'm glad I didn't go that route because that seems to be where things tilt into problematic. Well, having put in as much money as I have and STILL reeling in pretty weaksauce numbers is proving to be problematic.

Anyway- I have the dyno sheets but they're down the hill in the car on a CD the shop put together with some photos and some other data... if you saw the driveway I'm talking about you might understand why I'm not racing down there to grab them to post. I'll grab them tomorrow when I'm down there anyway.

Suffice to say as things start to move into 5000rpm things start to trend downwards. I'm only running a 5/16ths spacer but otherwise it's stock- So to go with something like a Cosworth V1 / 2 is probably in my near future... I'm not sure if porting / polishing is going to come as easily... I don't know what it costs but what I do know is I'm going to be hunting down the long side of the block in the marketplace. I'm willing to wager that even grabbing one off a rev up engine would be a huge upgrade... But this is coming from someone who doesn't know a port from a polish- so please slap me back into reality if that's what is due here. One thing I don't want to hear is that the engines are virtually the same. They're not- Let's move on.

The stance looks good but I was warned it looks high on the driver side. Put my 210lbs in the driver seat and it levels out perfectly. It sits a tiny bit higher overall now- but it looks level and great.

The boost controller is mounted exquisitely in the little space where the nav would normally be- and hides away nicely. VERY well done.

I paid the bill- and that included my Quaife which should be in next week. Talked to them about the oil cooler too- sounds like that'll be a go as things start to wrap up with the quaife. I'm not driving it hard and my temps are of absolutely no concern to anyone right now- I asked if they had any issue at the moment with any temps and they were totally fine with it all. I figured that upgrade could wait a little bit. Again, I'm not working the girl as hard as some might expect.

Anyway- that's the update for now. I'll update more tomorrow with the dyno sheets and some photos.

Fricken long block eh? $$$$

 

I'm in the same boat and still have much to do. I was highly considering cams as well. After 5200rpm I gradually lose 130tq, HP remains about the same till redline. I haven't researched much on that subject yet so I'm curious to see how they perform with FI.

 

I don't know if you're also having trouble with your shifting. It was mentioned that because the Infiniti has a computer designed overall for "luxury" and "comfort" that the engine tends to throttle down to shift to allow for a nice, demure ride. Meanwhile, those of us who have gone that route want nothing more than a nice, solid kick in the @ss. I think a big part of this is overcome through the manumatic... I haven't had much of an opportunity to sort it out yet- perhaps over the weekend.

I'm not 100% sure that's the overall answer to my problems- but if I'm expecting to hit mid 5s I think that's the only way. A Cosworth is a nice start which should net some decent intake gains at least... But as it stands now she starts to lose her lungs around 5000... same as you herr. I'm pretty certain it has something to do with my limited air in... Cosworth sounds like the most reasonable mod for that effect.

 

Alright boys... I think things are winding to a close with the thread. The quaife will be in next week... I'm still dealing with some shifting issues... I'll probably have an oil cooler in my near future but none of these are FI (thought loosely related I guess). I don't want to keep spamming in the wrong section- though I have to say this has been a hell of a ride for me. For those of you who have followed through the whole saga- here we are!

The car is tuned, things are staying cool, the open dif is being rectified... I found a local shop that rules and have a fantastic shop in the US to visit when the time comes that I would have absolutely NO qualms about recommending to those in the Pacific Northwest...

Anyone who has followed this from beginning to end knows what the story entails. Went to a shop that didn't know the kit... didn't listen to the guys who knew better when they said I should be nervous about leaving the car with Progressive... Blindly trusted in good faith that all was good... Had too much confidence in the DE non revup and the aptitude of Progressive... Learned that they are a gutless shop that wouldn't step up and I am extremely disappointed in the way they dealt with this issue.

A lot of learning about Uprev vs Haltech... but I'm interested to see what comes about with this shifting thing. Apparently Uprev is on the verge of or has recently cracked the part of the ECU that manages the transmission- There could be some massive benefits there.

But as far as the build is concerned with FI- I think we're wrapped up! Anyone with any questions can feel free to drop me a PM if you think I can help.

I'll finish with some closing photos and the dyno sheet from MNR.

 

The shifting issues and dyno chart both concern me.

 

yeah something just doesn't add up...

 

What are your shifting issues?
My built tranny has had problems engaging 2nd gear ever since I picked it up. There is always a 4 second lag unless at WOT.
I need to take it back in but haven't had time.

 

Eh Wes... Careful assuming that it's your tranny- unless you KNOW it is.

Take a look up at my dyno graph- that hesitation you're talking about is probably the same one that you can see quite prominently on the top left corner area of my graph. From my understanding that's the lag caused by the engine throttling down to make the "smooth" gear change- then ramping back up suddenly once the change is made and causing a prominent spike.

As I mentioned, I'm not 100% sure if Uprev has cracked the part of the ECU that controls that part of the transmission or not... but I don't recall it being a problem originally with my tune from Intec before my MAF was swapped out. The guy from Intec is a Pro tuner and I think the only actual PRO tuner in my area.

The guys at MNR can tune Osiris, and are very good but there may be some adjustments to be made. I'm going to try and see if they'll send the ROM they did for my car over to Intec because I'm going down there anyway next month (I hope) to put the final tune on it anyway. Intec told me that Uprev made some advancements with the transmission part of the ECU because they NEEDED to in order to fully tune the GT-R... which they currently can do.

Who built your tranny weslutes? What engine management are you using?

 

I had the same issue with my 5AT before it was built, but after my VB was upgraded. SGP did my upgrade, and I put it back into the car and there was a 3-4 second delay in shifting 1-2. I drove like that for almost a year until I built the auto tranny and turns out the VB was ****ed up. It had at least 3 bad solenoids and they all had to be replaced. SGP did fix it. But a year later with my built auto (only 355whp and a HUGE tranny cooler) I lost 5th gear and called it quits with the auto. It is not a manner of if a boosted auto will fail, but when..depending on how you drive and what you do with the car.

Take out your VB and check the solenoids, are they all intact?