Thinking of going Stillen S/C
Here are mine but no torque numbers and this is untuned as you can see the numbers drop after 5500rpm but you can still see I hit 378 and 372 in both runs. This was on the stock pulley and running on the stock software. Run 2 had a mishap and that is why the hp jumps so quick but the outcome was close to run 1.
Hope it helps sentry65
Hope it helps sentry65
Last edited by urban; Apr 22, 2006 at 03:24 PM.
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thx, but I think we should compare final funed cars - with tq numbers too 
I'm extremely sure you'll get some better numbers at 6000+rpms with some tuning. The power shouldn't start dropping off until after 6300 rpms or so and when it does, it's not as dramatic of a drop with a vortech normally as your numbers are showing right now untuned
I'm extremely sure you'll get some better numbers at 6000+rpms with some tuning. The power shouldn't start dropping off until after 6300 rpms or so and when it does, it's not as dramatic of a drop with a vortech normally as your numbers are showing right now untuned
Originally Posted by sentry65
thx, but I think we should compare final funed cars - with tq numbers too
I'm extremely sure you'll get some better numbers at 6000+rpms with some tuning. The power shouldn't start dropping off until after 6300 rpms or so and when it does, it's not as dramatic of a drop with a vortech normally as your numbers are showing right now untuned
I'm extremely sure you'll get some better numbers at 6000+rpms with some tuning. The power shouldn't start dropping off until after 6300 rpms or so and when it does, it's not as dramatic of a drop with a vortech normally as your numbers are showing right now untuned
That was over a year ago....see my sig
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oh yeah - hehe - nice numbers we have pretty similar setups actually
here's my setup
http://www.geocities.com/sentry65/350z/mods.txt
we have pretty similar setups actuallyhere's my setup
http://www.geocities.com/sentry65/350z/mods.txt
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hehe yeah but these guys wouldn't know what 7200 rpms is. It's all about 1000-4000 rpms for these guys. They won't even bother to calculate or demand data that truely goes to 6600 redline or 7000 rpms for people with a raised rev limiter
Last edited by sentry65; Apr 22, 2006 at 07:08 PM.
Originally Posted by sentry65
https://g35driver.com/forums/forced-induction/95995-your-vortech-loud.html
well whatever, if you raise the idle and use a gates belt a lot of the vortech's noise goes away because it's spinning faster - don't believe it if you choose to. You'll find that in most threads where someone is complaining about their vortech making some noise that as soon as they go to a dealer to raise their idle, it's gone. In the cases where it makes noise, either the blower was bad or the install was bad with one of the bolts being backwards, or the belts are set too loose or too tight
well whatever, if you raise the idle and use a gates belt a lot of the vortech's noise goes away because it's spinning faster - don't believe it if you choose to. You'll find that in most threads where someone is complaining about their vortech making some noise that as soon as they go to a dealer to raise their idle, it's gone. In the cases where it makes noise, either the blower was bad or the install was bad with one of the bolts being backwards, or the belts are set too loose or too tight
Wow why add results from different conditions, different dyno, different dyno TYPE, different mods/setups on cars.
Sorry but the original graph was controlled setup. You can add all the numbers you want, but it doesn't help us look at the basis of comparison. You can't compare cars between dynos.
Sorry but the original graph was controlled setup. You can add all the numbers you want, but it doesn't help us look at the basis of comparison. You can't compare cars between dynos.
Originally Posted by sentry65
I took the liberty to add to your chart with some other vortech setups
you seem to want to measure 8 psi, which is an odd thing in itself cause if you open up the exhaust, the boost psi drops, and you therefore have to upgrade the pulley to fill the engine with more air to return back up to 8 psi. It's completely possible that a 400whp vortech is running at 7-9psi depending on what breathing mods it has
the 450whp vortech actually was done on a dynodynamics load based dyno which usually read about 11-13% lower than what a dynojet reads...
if someone with a stage 1,2, and 4 stillen would please post their dyno, we can add that one in as well - and also lets try to get a 370-380whp vortech dyno
I see you're using the Sport Z magazine supercharger article from 2 years ago for your data. Do you consider that to be current data by today's standards? The vortech in that article was detonating from who knows what reason - is that really an accurate comparison? If a modern day vortech, ATI, and stillen car showed up for a dyno shootout, you really think the results would be close to what they were back then when the kits were brand new and had bugs etc? The ATI was notorious for not having a timing solution and detonating and the vortech's base map was so great and had a few changes made to the kit itself later on. I think the Stillen kit was the same back then as it was now - they got it right from the start I do believe, but these days things are different. You're still not factoring in that those are three different cars. You could have 3 stock cars on the same dyno on the same day and they'd all put out different numbers...
Does this graph look like a valid graph?
http://www.sportzmagazine.com/images...tech_Chart.gif
I suppose it's better than some of the graphs Sport Z magazine posted in their turbo shootout
anyway, here's the chart layout
you seem to want to measure 8 psi, which is an odd thing in itself cause if you open up the exhaust, the boost psi drops, and you therefore have to upgrade the pulley to fill the engine with more air to return back up to 8 psi. It's completely possible that a 400whp vortech is running at 7-9psi depending on what breathing mods it has
the 450whp vortech actually was done on a dynodynamics load based dyno which usually read about 11-13% lower than what a dynojet reads...
if someone with a stage 1,2, and 4 stillen would please post their dyno, we can add that one in as well - and also lets try to get a 370-380whp vortech dyno
I see you're using the Sport Z magazine supercharger article from 2 years ago for your data. Do you consider that to be current data by today's standards? The vortech in that article was detonating from who knows what reason - is that really an accurate comparison? If a modern day vortech, ATI, and stillen car showed up for a dyno shootout, you really think the results would be close to what they were back then when the kits were brand new and had bugs etc? The ATI was notorious for not having a timing solution and detonating and the vortech's base map was so great and had a few changes made to the kit itself later on. I think the Stillen kit was the same back then as it was now - they got it right from the start I do believe, but these days things are different. You're still not factoring in that those are three different cars. You could have 3 stock cars on the same dyno on the same day and they'd all put out different numbers...
Does this graph look like a valid graph?
http://www.sportzmagazine.com/images...tech_Chart.gif
I suppose it's better than some of the graphs Sport Z magazine posted in their turbo shootout
anyway, here's the chart layout
Originally Posted by sentry65
hehe yeah but these guys wouldn't know what 7200 rpms is. It's all about 1000-4000 rpms for these guys. They won't even bother to calculate or demand data that truely goes to 6600 redline or 7000 rpms for people with a raised rev limiter
No you just seem too blinded to look at reality.
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Originally Posted by G35_TX
Spinning faster? LOL!!!! Doesn't matter what belt you use, its not going to make it spin faster. And idle, you shouldn't have to mess with a idle to fix the noise.
why are you scared to raise the idle? It's a solution that works with not many downsides other than getting over to a dealer to have it done. It's not like you have to worry about passing idle emissions or something cause they just hook their computer up to the car to check for any codes. Are you worried about MPG or something? Worried about the engine sounding ever so slightly louder? I don't get what the hold up is.
If you put cams in your car you have to raise the idle anyway. If you run a light flywheel, raising the idle solves the cement mixer sound and makes it easier to drive with it. What's the big deal?
Can you explain or is this some sorta ideal you have that if you drastically change the car that you shouldn't have to make any adjustments whatsoever.
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Originally Posted by G35_TX
No you just seem too blinded to look at reality.
you know I'd say dude, let's race each other on the 1/4 mile or highway or something, but you'd probably say something rediculous like "only in daily driver conditions and shifting no higher than 5000 rpms, and also don't go WOT cause we don't do that sorta thing on the street"
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Originally Posted by G35_TX
Wow why add results from different conditions, different dyno, different dyno TYPE, different mods/setups on cars.
Sorry but the original graph was controlled setup. You can add all the numbers you want, but it doesn't help us look at the basis of comparison. You can't compare cars between dynos.
Sorry but the original graph was controlled setup. You can add all the numbers you want, but it doesn't help us look at the basis of comparison. You can't compare cars between dynos.
after awhile you start to see beyond the exacting conditions because you realize that you can have two stock cars on the same dyno on the same day and they give different results. You can even get different results in different gears or different results for the different pulls you do as the engine heats up. What type of fan setup is the dyno using? etc. It's a moving target even in ideal "scientific" conditions.
It's the same crap as how chevy tends to underrate their factory engines and nissan tends to overrate them. You can't even compare stock to stock between different car makes by any standard though they've gotten better about it lately with the newer regulations
I don't know about you, but if I see a car making 450whp, I tend to think of it as being more powerful than a 230whp car - regardless of what dyno or conditions they're dynoed in. No dyno or temperature or elevation etc can account for nearly 2x the performance.
Do you know approximately the % differences between different dyno types? All it takes to find out about elevation is to find out where the dyno took place and look up the elevation for that city or state. It's not hard, but you do have to see past the differences. Look at the mods on the car, look at the A/F and what octane they're using. You can't expect to be spoonfed each scientific test by a magazine that is shoddy at best with the quality of their dyno tests
Last edited by sentry65; Apr 22, 2006 at 08:46 PM.
sentry, you know, i've been modding my car for a few months now. bolt-ons only so far. and i have NOT ONCE raced anyone on the highway seriously. i have passed folks, or got passed, true, but never *raced*. there never been a three-honk start, or rolling-60 start or whatever else.
what does happen is that i want to pass someone, and i step on it (rarely - floor it). more often than not, i want more oomph off the line, or mid-gear acceleration at like 50% WOT. i watched myself - that's where i am missing power. that's what i am hoping for the Stillen to provide.
of course, if you guys want ***** TO THE WALL POWER WHEN YOU FLOOR IT, then perhaps Stillen is not exactly it for you. but then again, i'm not one of those guys, or else, i'd be spending 3 times as much on a TURBO.
what does happen is that i want to pass someone, and i step on it (rarely - floor it). more often than not, i want more oomph off the line, or mid-gear acceleration at like 50% WOT. i watched myself - that's where i am missing power. that's what i am hoping for the Stillen to provide.
of course, if you guys want ***** TO THE WALL POWER WHEN YOU FLOOR IT, then perhaps Stillen is not exactly it for you. but then again, i'm not one of those guys, or else, i'd be spending 3 times as much on a TURBO.
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right, I'd say go for the stillen then
it's just hard to make a valid and even comparison between a "racer" mentality and a "daily driver" mentallity.
I do take my car out on the track. I take it on road courses. I do rev to 7000 sometimes (only in lower gears though) I do go WOT on the street on occasion. When I want to pass someone, I downshift and usually go WOT. If I don't downshift, I for sure go WOT. I like hearing my exhaust. I like the sound of the engine screaming. I like more aggressive gearing like the 3.9 - I like being in high rpms. I cruise around the street at around 2500 rpms in 4th gear going 45mph because of my gearing and clutch setup. I like stiff suspensions and things like solid motor mounts, light clutch/flywheels, and aftermarket LSD's.
I figure I bought a sports car for a reason otherwise I would have bought a truck that has massive low end torque with how the cams and displacement are setup with the engine
I love cars like the lotus elise and noble M400 and hate cars like mercedes or BMW's
I'm the guy who will rip out leather heated seats out of the car and put in lightweight racing seats that have good lateral support and grip that are hard to get in and out of.
And because of all that, most people on this site and I won't ever see eye to eye. If I was into daily driving, I'd get the stillen kit without even thinking twice.
it's just hard to make a valid and even comparison between a "racer" mentality and a "daily driver" mentallity.
I do take my car out on the track. I take it on road courses. I do rev to 7000 sometimes (only in lower gears though) I do go WOT on the street on occasion. When I want to pass someone, I downshift and usually go WOT. If I don't downshift, I for sure go WOT. I like hearing my exhaust. I like the sound of the engine screaming. I like more aggressive gearing like the 3.9 - I like being in high rpms. I cruise around the street at around 2500 rpms in 4th gear going 45mph because of my gearing and clutch setup. I like stiff suspensions and things like solid motor mounts, light clutch/flywheels, and aftermarket LSD's.
I figure I bought a sports car for a reason otherwise I would have bought a truck that has massive low end torque with how the cams and displacement are setup with the engine
I love cars like the lotus elise and noble M400 and hate cars like mercedes or BMW's
I'm the guy who will rip out leather heated seats out of the car and put in lightweight racing seats that have good lateral support and grip that are hard to get in and out of.
And because of all that, most people on this site and I won't ever see eye to eye. If I was into daily driving, I'd get the stillen kit without even thinking twice.
Last edited by sentry65; Apr 22, 2006 at 09:23 PM.