Interesting.. I've heard of some g35's that are running 10w30. It's said to "help" the oil consumption issue.

I would think that the mpg would suffer slightly?.. It's said that 5w30 flows better, especially in cold climates.

yes but I don't want help with the oc issue by running heavier oil. I want it to run 5w30 and not burn it.

Hard to tell on the mpg. Car gets crappy mileage regardless and 91 here just hit $4.50 with no signs of slowing down. I'm spending $250 a month on fuel.

Heard same on the 10w-30 during testing. That happened to a friend I know with his G, but his OC was bad enough it didn't matter and didn't improve the consumption rate anyway.
But moderate OC might make that an issue and put the ball more in their court not to qualify you.

Heard about the overfilling thing too in the past. Games....
Heard about topping off before official level reading on OC test return. Games....
Just don't let your G out of your sight when it concerns OC testing at dealer.

Hey! Sorry about the late reply. THings have been completely hecktic.

I thought the "spawn of satan" was an approprate description of what it is.

As for this 10w-30 BS, well, thats exactly it, BS and games. I don't know/ think that the guys at this dealership are doing that though. I am sure that they over-filled the oil though. I got a 1000 mile trip this weekend so it will be good for the high speed hi rev part! How do you know if they put in 10w-30 btw? Can I ask to watch them take the reading at the dealership? they won't pull the "its too dangerous" BS for doing that?

I have an 05 6mt Coupe. It says there is a VQ35 DE in there. Is that enough to know its a rev up? Whats the difference between a rev up and a non rev up and why is one better than the other? If thats not enough info, where can I find it?

And I totally forgot a bunch of other stuff.

I think part of the reason why they might be "so willing" to do the repairs is that I looked more than interested in getting the new G37. Now since the auto industry (even toyota, nissan, and honda) are hurting on sales they seemed desparate to get cars out the door. So, i think they started thinking, ok, we will do the warrenty work on this car and then sell it for a premium with the new motor and tranny, and we can put this guy in a new 37. I just played along and acted "super interested." Hahahaha! The guy even said, hey, take the car for a spin (without him in it), and then said if you really want, take the car for like a day or two and then let me know what you think. Hahaha. The 37's are nice but I like my 35. There is something more sporty about them. BUT, I think that is helping with the dealership "wanting" to do the work.

In all honesty, yes they might be genuinely wanting to do the swaps. BUT, I just don't trust the dealers. There is something undeniably sketchy. I am sure many of you have heard of the same but dealer's (when doing big work) will take out perfectly good parts and swap them out for others, sometimes new, sometimes not. Like they will put in an order for warrenty work for a new Tranny, they get the new tranny, but they will put in a transmission from another car that they have in there that is perfectly fine. Any way, no need to get into the sketchy things they do. When they say new, I expect to get new. Hahaha. Which brings me to the point. You think it will be an issue that they see my RPS flywheel/ clutch? do you think they will be like "well no wonder your tranny and this and that are bad, you have a non-stock clutch"? Also, if they do the repairs do you think they would actually put the clutch back in and not put a stock one in there? (since the RPS clutch is infinately better than stock, and I stand by that). I don't know if I would have the time to go stand next to the car to verify they put it back in. Short of doing that, I don't think there is much I can do.

This has only happened when it started getting above 80 degrees but the car doesn't want to go into gear sometimes. So there is a lot of force that I need to put in inorder to get it into the gate. Now I don't know if its the fact that the clutch isn't fully disengaging (someone said that it could be that my clutch line is too long? Not sure how that works). Or it could be the tranny. Who knows. I just hope the dealer guys won't care and replace both the Long block and the tranny (since they brought up the tranny ).

Ive checked the oil, and I will reiterate my earlier coment, but the spawn of satan dip-stick shows half way down the mesh to FULL when I check it in the morning. I don't get it. Ive only travelled 300 miles or so since the last OC test so it can't be THAT much. I just don't get it with that thing. Its 100% deceptive. It gives you NO idea how much you have burned untill its bone dry! I am sure many of you have experienced THAT.

It would be kind of cool to be able to buy the "bad" motor after they take it out (or take it from them) so that you could build a new motor (if you are a car enthusiest) and do all the necessary things like port polish and upgraded components at one's liesure. Oh well, we can all dream right?

They put a little static cling decal in the upper left of the windsheild that tells grade they used and date and mileage to return it. Says 10w30 right on it. They didn't tie off my dipstick so I'm monitoring it on my own. That's how i knew they overfilled and I do notice much less consumption with the heavier oil. Too freakin bad. Gas is $4.60 here now and I ain't running pancake syrup to alleviate my oc issue. I'm taking it back to demand 5w30 and start the test again.

q1-Like mentioned...sticker will say or in my past cases, my paperwork states what kind.
q2-Sure...I did.
q3-Depends on dealer, mine didn't.

You have a revup VQ.
In a basic nutshell, rev-up = 298hp redline 7K; non revup = 280hp lower redline.
TSB states what G models, what years with which trannys have revups.
Just take it back when they want and see what they say.
Check it again after your 1000mi trip.

Long runs I've heard and confirmed myself, will increase the OC rate.
Sprited runs with lots of downshifts do too
The older the oil or more miles on oil, the rate of consumption increases.
High quality UOA's (used oil analysis) proves why that is.

I hear you with that, but like I mentioned before it didn't really seem to matter that much with a friend of mine.

Like I said just above too, consumption rate increases as the miles increase on oil. Wait untill you're a quart low or more, then bring back to dealer. TSB states customer to return between 1000 - 3750 miles for valid test. Mine wanted me second time to return in another 1000 after I requested test to continue (btw...TSB states customer can request that) I said we'll see. I returned when I was 24mm low which was ~2300mi. Done deal...qualified.

Just got off the phone with my Local Dealer and the Service guy said "We have heard about it but have not come across any issues." When I initially asked about the TSB he had not heard of it (must be new) and had to ask around. Anyone in the Chicagoland area been to Fields Infiniti with this issue and gotten a different answer????

Nissans 350Z OC TSB was released end of Novemeber 2007.
Infiniti's first OC TSB was released Jan 10, 2008, revised Feb 27th and revised again on May 20th.
TSB aint new bro
LOL and at your Dealer.

I am gonna call back on Monday, hoping that I might not get someone so brain dead. I figure that since it is Saturday they may have the "Special" crew at work.

Well, I'm 2/3rds down on the mesh part dip-stick with 1400 miles since the last OC test. I just called the dealer and going in tomorrow. Wish me luck!

True that...lol.
That's well in the NG range (16mm)
Gives lots of room for dealer interpreted level reading and still qualify.
G/L tomorrow.

Haha thanks V35 Skyline GT! I think Running her "Hot" to Boston and Back helped with that

Yup...long runs and spirited drives helps a lot in regards to that situation
But hey...any engine should be able to handle that with no excessive OC, especially what ours were built for imo


-EDIT-
Okay...I look like a PW. So, I'll chime in when I have anything to say about my V2...good or bad.

well it's been over a month and about 800 miles since the test was started and I've been checking it every week. Since they overfilled it it was almost 1/4" above the high line and didn't budge everytime I checked it, until last night.

Now it's almost a 1/4" inch low. That's a pretty big movement in a week. It had been upper 90's all last week so I'm sure that helped but like others have mentioned that dipstick sucks.

I'm hoping now that it has reached the point where it is heading down I will see a more consistant drop and can take it back for a dealer reading soon.

It's not hurting to be racking up mileage on what I now consider to be Infiniti's engine but all the same I'd like this to be over as soon as possible.