I would stick to ART pipes and stock headers lol. It is the best sound IMO this rev up can produce.

 

Unless you have the extra $1k to throw into the drive shaft just go with the aluminum one, most of them are good for 1000 whp so you really don't need a "stronger" one. If you haven't already done the rear subframe bushings you will want to, or at least install collars into the OEM rubber ones.

As for engine mods, ART pipes or HFC definitely, you should also seriously look into the 75mm TB with a 3.5" intake, then tune. You MUST get a tune with the bigger intakes, so it would be good to do that all in one shot.

 

@cleric670 Thanks for the tips. What do you think of Motordyne G37 longtube headers on a G35? Any idea on fitment?

 

Hello everyone
I've been restoring an 03 coupe over the past year, I've reached a point where every major mechanical issue has been resolved.

As I approach 140k I was hoping to get some input from a few people with higher mileage, regarding what I could possibly be working on next.
I've went with mainly OEM / OEM Spec parts thus far, but I'm not opposed to mods or aftermarket parts.
Hope this is the right place to post this as I'm unsure where to go from here.

So.. What are some options? What areas have you focused on when approaching 150k with our cars? What are some major and minor things I could do ahead of time?
Is performance out of the question? Are there things to look out for that might not be in the maintenance schedules?
Are some things better not to mess with until they actually need repaired or replaced?


A little bit of background.. within the past 5-8k miles I've replaced:
-Every Gasket from the Lower Plenum/Valve Covers going up, Both Belts, Spark Plugs, Oil Cooler gaskets/seals/rings whatever you wanna call them, AC Motor & Evap Drier too.
-Clutch Disk, Pressure Plate, Dual Mass Flywheel, Slave, Master, TB Bushing & genuine Nissan fluids
-Both Front Lower Control Arms & Ball Joints, Brake Pads, along with a new set of wheels and tires, and an alignment afterwards. (+2 lbs heavier per wheel now, on 18x8.5/9.5 - 255/275 with 40 aspect ratio)

So far it has never let me sit, taken me cross country twice, doesn't burn oil, runs fairly quiet, and starts first try.. I drive it every day of the week..
I want to do as much as possible to keep all that going.. budget another grand or two
Thank you to anybody willing to weigh in

 

Doesn't burn any oil? That's wierd, congratulations I suppose

Something you didn't mention was the rear differential bushing, if that's still OEM you are probably either driving like my grandmother, or it's been blown out for years and you didn't realize it. Inspect and replace with a poly bushing if it's shot, don't bother with another OEM rubber bushing it's a weak point that needs to be reinforced with a polyurethane upgrade.

140k is quite a few miles on the stock cam/crank/upstream O2 sensors. Plan on replacing them as preventative maintenance, start with the cam first, then crank, then O2 since the cam/crank ones can bring your drive to a dead stop when they fail. Use only Hitachi (the OEM supplier) or Genuine Nissan Parts (Hitachi in a different plastic bag available at any Nissan across the nation).

I would also go through the undercarriage with a fine tooth comb looking for any corrosion points that have developed, pay particular attention to the front stay member (frame brace in the front) and any accumulation inside those little "pockets" in the front part of the rear wheel wells. I filled mine with undercarriage paint just so I wouldn't ever have to worry about them rusting out.

Exterior on a 17 year old vehicle is probably going to be the weakest link. Keep up on your yearly clay bar, I've had absolutely AMAZING results switching my monthly wipe-on protectant (or wax if you're old school) to Optimum Car Care Opti-Seal. It's only like $20 per bottle, lasts for about 25 applications (they claim 40 but they're full of ****) and leaves an amazingly slick coat of some super-polymer coating on the paint that makes weekly washing a breeze. I apply it every week (or every wash, some weeks I'm too busy) which is super overkill since it lasts like 6 weeks but I live in the 110 degree F desert part of Washington State and we get some serious sunlight. Clear coats typically fall apart at 15 years here.

Also your interior may be starting to degrade, many of the pleather/vinyl coated soft touch surfaces on various panels will begin to peel, I invested a couple hours and a roll of push-in-trim into my interior as protection against this type of peeling. The glue may pull away from the panel but at least the sections won't peel at the edges due to this trim material I bought off Amazon. I strongly recommend the chrome and not some other color, at first I thought it would be interesting to accent with the orange colored one but I immediately regretted it and pulled it off.


I would also strongly recommend you catch up on fluid maintenance if you haven't already. Power steering is easy, buy a cheap turkey baster and suck out the reservoir then refill, this exchanges about 25% of the total power steering fluid volume, do this every oil change. Brake fluid you should do every time you replace pads due to wear (not from swapping to weekend track pads/rotors). If you're due for pads/rotors I have nothing but good things to say about R1Concepts.com, I've used 3 sets of their cheap "e-line series" vented/slotted rotors with Hawk HPS and HP+ pads without warping, excessive wear with aggressive pads is to be expected.

Currently my G has turned into my daily driver again so I went back to R1 and ordered another set of rotors but with their "OEMplus" pads, I've only put about 300 miles on them which isn't enough to really get a good measure of a brake pad but my initial reaction is they feel great, have no dusting whatsoever, no noise whatsoever, and feel exactly like what I was expecting from an OEM equivalent pad.

Tranny and rear differential are two spots where you really want to keep up on the fluid maintenance. I've been a little lax on both and there's a pretty massive difference in the look of the fluid between the 20k mile recommended schedule and 30k mile where I got lazy a couple times. Gotta invest in one of those Quickjack's so I quit delaying getting the car up in the air for those fluid changes >.<

 

Cleric670 Thank you this is exactly what kind of info I was looking for! Much appreciated

And I guess I got lucky with the oil thing, it will finally start to show maybe 1/2 of a quart lower after about 3 months of checking weekly..
I only consider it to not burn oil since I'll only top it off maybe once or twice before its time for an oil change.. About a 50 mile round trip it makes almost every day.

I can't say for sure about the rear diff bushing, one of the previous owners took good care of the car, one of them beat the **** outta it, I'm also not sure in which order..
Certain things I find have been well maintained by someone that knew what they were doing, others not so much.
I do drive kinda lax now in my older age lol I've never dumped the clutch yet (as hard as it is to fight the urge not to haha) and if I get on it it's usually in 3rd or 4th without hard shifts.
I'll assume the rear diff bushing hasn't been replaced though and will prolly knock it out & change the rear diff fluid together. When we changed the clutch I'm pretty sure we changed both tranny n clutch fluid.

That power steering tip is pretty cool tho I'm definitely going to use it!
So the camshaft position sensor (bank 1 circuit a I think the code reader said) Is this the one that will cause slip/vdc/ses lights to come on after a car wash/start up on the second or third try?
If so I think it's already starting to go. It seems like every time I use the car wash/pressure wash any part of the front end this happens. Turning it off and taking the key out a minute resolves it..
I think the O2 sensors were ok when we redid the majority of the exhaust. I'll def have to look into the cam/crank/O2 sensors pronto, appreciate the hitachi recommendation too.

Your interior/exterior info will definitely go a long way as I've been looking for something to assist in preserving the interior and clear coat, so far its only fading on the spoiler and on the fenders.
I've got terribly "hard water" here in PA as well and can't wash at home without immediately drying it. I could wax it then rinse the very next day and still have ridiculous water spots..
Did you use that texturized non-skid type of undercoating when you did yours? And did you hit up the stay member as well?
I've been looking for a decent vented rotor for some time now, you'll have to let me know how them oem+ pads pair up with them over time.

Glad to hear of another G out there daily drivng in 2020. Got any pics of yours handy? Thank you again this will give me a great jump start along with a few other things I'm compiling! Cheers

 

Carry an OBD2 scanner with you to the car wash and see what code it's throwing, something is getting wet and that can be a HUGE problem that you need to fix asap.

As for the car wash at home issue, look up the "two bucket wash" method. You can buy 10 gallons of distilled water in 1 gal containers from the grocery store for under $20 usually. Then you can just use that water to wash the car, that's the only way I've washed a vehicle in nearly 5 years. All you need is two 5-gal buckets, two grit guards for the buckets, a wash mitt, couple of drying towels, your favorite car wash (mine is Optimum No Rinse Wash & Wax). Follow that up with a quick coat of Opti-Seal and you're good to go.

If you absolutely must spray water on the car at home get a Round-Up sprayer from Home Depot, cut the hose, get a hose bib adapter for the hose and screw on a trigger sprayer. It doesn't have a ton of volume but works pretty damned good since you can fill it up with a couple more of those gallons of distilled water.

EDIT: I have the worlds hardest well water, I soften it at the house but still end up with some minor spotting if I use the house water so the distilled water has worked perfectly. Typically my grocery store sells it for like $1.25 / gallon and I use 9 gallons with the two bucket method.

 

Z1 motorsport dual catback exhaust!!!

 

Do the z1 motorsports kinetix high flow cats fit an 06 g35 coupe with stock y pipe and headers, I have a muffler delete but I doubt that affects fitment pls lmk thank uuu

 

Doesn't affect fitment at all, if it's for a DE equipped G35 or 350Z it will fit.

 

I would also strongly recommend you catch up on fluid maintenance if you haven't already. Power steering is easy, buy a cheap turkey baster and suck out the reservoir then refill, this exchanges about 25% of the total power steering fluid volume, do this every oil change.

 

So I'm trying to make my g35 drive as comfy w possible because I'm already happy with the performance of the car. Just want to make riding it feel smoother, right now it's a bit rough.

Coilovers? I'm new to car stuff so I'm not sure on where to start.

 

I would recommend a better set of shocks/struts. You're never going to make the car feel buttery smooth like a Camry though, this is a sports car but as long as you're on stock springs (or stock 350Z revised springs if you want the 1/2" lower stance) that's the best overall ride quality you're going to get. Coilovers will have a higher spring rate thus more firm.

A quality set of shocks/struts will smooth out any harness left on the stock springs though, Bilstein B6 is a great option if you want something non-adjustable. If your struts are worn out you will have more travel on the springs and will be getting into some of the harsher extremes of the spring rate. Nissan did an excellent job with the revised spring rates for the coupe (and 350Z).

Here is a thread with spring rates for a LOT of different brands.

https://g35driver.com/forums/brakes-...w-updates.html

You can check what color dots are painted on your springs to see what your vehicle is actually equipped with, here is a link that shows some various color dot examples mostly for the 350Z revised springs but it will give you an idea what to look for. Use some brake cleaner on a rag to wipe down the springs to find the color dots.

https://g35driver.com/forums/brakes-...reference.html

 

Thank you! Feels nice to have my noob questions answered lol

 

Hello G35 drivers!

I have a stock 2006 G35, paint code WV2 (the metallic dark grey color). In the future, I'd like to modify it slightly. I'm looking for ideas to make it have a grand touring feel. Not slammed. Think Aston Martin or Jaguar. Fog lights, a refined cowl, some minor tweaks that make the car a bit more aggressive. A car for the winding roads of the Black Forest, not a car for the track. If you come across anything that will help me achieve this look, please let me know. Thanks.