2004 G35 coupe problems
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2004 G35 coupe problems
Hi everyone I have a 04 coupe that I’ve been having some problems with. It started with my ebreak and battery light coming on very dim, tested battery and alternator and everything tested fine. Replaced battery terminals and nothing changed. Lights still on (very dim). Then my abs light would start flickering on and off and I could hear the pump clicking. Now the abs light is always on as well as my VDC off (they don’t work now) I’ve tried looking this up but can only find posts where the ABS, VDC AND SLIP lights are on, but my slip light is not on. The vehicle now Misfires all the time, engine light is on but no codes about the misfire. What could this be? I’m totally stumped. Here are the codes I got when I scanned it
P0500, P1574, P1212 and U1001.
P0500, P1574, P1212 and U1001.
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Front and rear cameras, tire pressure for all four tires can display on screen,folding side view mir
How did you test the battery and how old is it?
Have you consulted the FSM?
http://www.nicoclub.com/service-manu.../Coupe/2004/ec
Telcoman
Have you consulted the FSM?
http://www.nicoclub.com/service-manu.../Coupe/2004/ec
Telcoman
Last edited by telcoman; Jan 11, 2018 at 07:45 PM.
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Tested it with a volt meter, everything checked out fine with car off and while running under load. Battery’s about a year or 2 old if that
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Front and rear cameras, tire pressure for all four tires can display on screen,folding side view mir
Telcoman
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I tested it about a week ago, but I don’t have any problems with any of my electronics, like none of my lights dim or anything like that, what is that in the picture?
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You don't test a battery with a digital multimeter, you test the electrolyte with a hydrometer as posted above and you also test with a "load bank" that most parts houses have to test batteries.
A load bank basically makes the battery power a large heating element and a fan to simulate a 100amp current draw while it simultaneously measures for voltage drop. If it drops below spec during the load test it's garbage.
Using a digital multimeter to measure voltage without any kind of load on the system doesn't tell you much really.
A load bank basically makes the battery power a large heating element and a fan to simulate a 100amp current draw while it simultaneously measures for voltage drop. If it drops below spec during the load test it's garbage.
Using a digital multimeter to measure voltage without any kind of load on the system doesn't tell you much really.
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Also since your ALTERNATOR can supply a sustained 120amps while the engine is running you have no way to measure life of the BATTERY while it's connected to the car. It needs to be disconnected while load banking.
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Front and rear cameras, tire pressure for all four tires can display on screen,folding side view mir
You don't test a battery with a digital multimeter, you test the electrolyte with a hydrometer as posted above and you also test with a "load bank" that most parts houses have to test batteries.
A load bank basically makes the battery power a large heating element and a fan to simulate a 100amp current draw while it simultaneously measures for voltage drop. If it drops below spec during the load test it's garbage.
Using a digital multimeter to measure voltage without any kind of load on the system doesn't tell you much really.
A load bank basically makes the battery power a large heating element and a fan to simulate a 100amp current draw while it simultaneously measures for voltage drop. If it drops below spec during the load test it's garbage.
Using a digital multimeter to measure voltage without any kind of load on the system doesn't tell you much really.
During three repeated tests of my five year old battery over the course of a month last October produced these results on one battery cell.
I had the dealer replace my battery during a routine oil change and when it was two below zero here in NJ last Saturday my vehicle started right up.
Telcoman
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