If you have a code for the cam sensor, you should replace the cam sensor. Use OEM parts if you don't want to do it again, otherwise you could take your chances on a lifetime warranty aftermarket part and save $30 at the risk of needing to do it again in a year.

 

There isn't a separate fuel filter just the little sock that sits on the pump.

Does it require you to pump gas every time you start it? If so the fuel pump be losing pressure after you turn the car off. It's supposed to keep the system pressurized after the car is off, so it makes starting easier. You'd have to hook a fuel gauge and aftermarket port to monitor the pressure and see if it drops.

There are two sensors or the AT and I think four if you have an M/T. The code will tell you which sensor is acting up. You can do some checks with a multimeter on it though to verify if it's bad.

 

Kev are you familiar with the Occam's Razor theory? To summarize, it posits that when faced with a problem that is difficult to fix usually the simplest answer is the right one. Don't overthink things like this, if the car is telling you a cam sensor is failing replace it before you move on to another possible solution. It'll make your life a whole lot easier!

 

I have yet to read that. Thanks for the summary, wise one.

 

Good suggestions. The only thing I would try first would be fuel pressure at the fuel rail. You do need an adapter to connect a gauge but the cost to do it at a shop shouldn't be much.
If the pressure is within spec I would go with the sensor. If it is not within spec it could be the pump or this rubber grommet which is part of the pump assembly. The grommet is available at the following link and as far as I know it is the only place that has them. Factory only sells them as part of the pump assembly.
The grommet is prone to cracking. It happened to me.

 

 

Firstly, fix the cam sensor since it can cause start problems and you're already throwing a code for it...

Here's my issue with this whole thought process, on the G35 you do not "pump the gas" the throttle pedal is a switch that goes to the ECU with no mechanical connection to the throttle body. During START the ECU controls throttle body position without any input from the pedal position switch, once the engine is started THEN the PPS data causes the ECU to actuate the throttle body motor.

You are not adding extra gas by pushing the pedal switch, you are not even actuating the throttle body motor during engine starting.

I would start by pulling spark plugs and inspecting them, typically that's where the problem starts or at very least you might notice a difference between plugs indicating something amiss on one cylinder. Inspect all coil packs during this time for scorching, bulging, discoloration, tears on the spark plug well boos, corrosion on the contact spring inside the spark plug well boot, etc. Test spark on each cylinder individually, pull the fuel pump relay, "run" the vehicle until it stalls to bleed off remaining fuel pressure, hold the spark plug near the intake manifold (about 1/4 inch away from the intake) while someone cranks the motor and you visually inspect spark, any weak spark try swapping plugs, if still weak replace the coil pack. Obviously be careful and wear those gloves, hold the coil pack and not the actual spark plug itself or you'll be tasting about 40k volts DC during spark, you're not as cool as Thor so don't pretend you're from Asgard.

If the spark plugs and coil packs all pass inspection then order the fuel damper sandwich adapter from Z1 Motorsports along with either a schrader valve or a permanently installed fuel gauge so you can read fuel pressure. You should see almost no fluctuation on the fuel gauge in ANY situation, not during cranking, not during hard revs, nothing. If you see a slight "wiggle" on the gauge that seems to be independent of engine rpm you probably need to replace all the fuel dampers.

If spark AND fuel systems pass inspection then you're left with only a couple components to test or simply replace because they're probably about shot due to higher mileage, crank position sensor and ALL fuel injectors. Start with the crank sensor, the engine has a LOT of wiggle room with injectors and it will simply trim injector pulse width via long term fuel trim to keep up fuel demand when the injectors start to get old and don't flow as much fuel, they have to be REALLY shot to cause start issues and you will usually get a check engine light for fuel trim long before the injectors are crapped out and causing actual starting issues.

 

There is a fuel filter that is located in the fuel tank on the pump assembly. Part # 16400-1Y505