After I changed my valve covers, I let everything dry and I went for a ride. Within 10 mi my car stalled three times. Once as I was stopping at a light, twice as I was making a turn.

It's a manual transmission . Car idles normally I don't feel any misfires or anything out of the ordinary . The first time it's stalled it flashed the check engine light and went off. I checked the codes and I'm getting these two codes 0011-0327.
I had the battery disconnected the whole time I was working on the valve covers and I did the idle relearn

 

Responded to your other thread. Do the rpms drop when you turn the steering wheel while the car is parked? Could he a failing power steering pressure sensor.

 

Nope nope RPMs don't drop.

 

Also I just did an oil change but the front of the car was jacked up. I only got about three and a half to four quarts of oil out of it I'm not sure if that's because the car is not level. Either way when I drop the car after I do a few things I'll double check the oil because I have to do that anyway. I mentioned in another thread that I put silicone lube on all the connectors before I plug them in so they go in nice and smooth. From what I know these shouldn't affect anything

 

I haven't had a problem with getting a good drain with the front tires on ramps. Good practice to let the car sit for 10 minutes to let the oil drain down from the heads.
These cars do burn oil, so keep that in mind. I check my oil at every other fill up (~500 miles), and I usually add about a quart between changes.
Make sure you have the coils connected(!) to the proper harness connectors. Some of them are easy to swap by mistake.
P0011 is for VCT. Did you remove the VTC solenoids when you replaced the valve covers? I'd start with check/clean the connectors to the VCT solenoids & inspect harness leading to them.
P0327 is for the knock sensor circuit voltage. According to Z1, its common for the short harness to fail.
https://www.z1motorsports.com/oxygen...ss-p-5833.html

 

I I did not touch the solenoids. I did have to kind of put some strain on the wiring harness to get both valve covers in. I have the car jacked up, while it's up there I want to see what the noise coming from my tire is which I think is a bad wheel bearing, I'm going to clean the underneath of the car so I can check for oil leaks later on. After I drop the car I'm going to check the oil top it off. And I'll start looking around for other things you guys mentioned. It's really aggravating because I really did my best I didn't think anything was going to be wrong. I marked every bolt I taped every hose I took off I torqued down every screw. Changed the spark plugs the air filter cleaned the throttle body clean the mass air flow sensor. Took my time on everything.

I also added a ZTube which is OEM. I bought the Ztibr Frome someone on here and the bottom of the Ztube where the hoes goes on, is loose. That little L tube that connects to the hose can be easily turned in any direction and pushed in and out. It doesn't come off but it's very loose and possibly air can be getting out of there Don't know if that makes a difference

 

I understand you took your time with it, but it doesn't hurt to take another look and check your work. Maybe try cleaning some of that silicone off the connectors, it might be preventing the contacts in the connectors from fully touching. I only put silicone around the gasket of the connectors if I use it all. Sometimes a little WD40 is all that is needed to prevent corrosion.
That is probably causing a vacuum leak, and might even be the cause for the engine to stall. The ECU uses input from the mass air flow (MAF) sensor, as well as other sensors, to 'meter' the fuel to the engine. If air doesn't go across the MAF and goes into the engine, the fuel mixture will be off (lean) and your performance will suffer. I'd put a zip-tie or hose clamp on it to keep it tight on there, and check the other end of the hose on the valve cover while you're there. It sucks they put the fitting on the bottom of that tube. To install it, I had to attach that PCV hose on both ends, THEN install the pipe and couplers to the airbox and throttle plate respectively.

 

I will check everything out the way you guys suggest. by the way I've been doing a little bit of research , The 0011 sometimes is because of low oil and my oil was low so hopefully that'll do it

 

It COULD be caused by low oil, basically it's the computer saying "I am sending out pulse width to the solenoid that should be advancing the cam a specific amount and the phase sensor is telling me it didn't move far enough". The cam actuators receive a pulse width from the ECM which holds the solenoid open a certain % duty cycle, oil rushes past the solenoid into the phaser and that pressure physically pushes the cam advanced a certain amount, the cam sensor watches the advance and sends the data back to the ECM. The ECM then constantly adjusts spark timing and injector timing to match the cam advance.

If oil pressure drops then there isn't enough pressure to move the cams far enough, you get a code.

If the solenoid wears out and doesn't open enough then not enough oil flows past, you get a code.

If the cam sensor is faulty and is telling the ECM the wrong cam position you get a code.

If there is debris built up on the tone ring of the camshaft and the cam sensor is reading the data wrong you get a code.

If debris builds up on the little mesh screens in the solenoid it blocks oil flow, thus lower pressure into the cam sprocket advancer and you get a code.

If the timing chain tensioner or guide failed and jumped a tooth on the sprocket then you get a code.

If the front galley gaskets blew out and not enough oil pressure is reaching the solenoid then you get a code.

So there's quite a few reasons why you can get P0011, typically you start by checking oil level, removing and inspecting the solenoid for debris on the screens, and bench testing the solenoid. You should be able to find a youtube video to bench test it, it's an incredibly simple part and you can easily see if the various valve openings aren't opening up fully. Just be aware if you do bench test it that you don't just apply voltage and hold it open. The solenoid receives a series of rapid pulses (in increasing duration depending on how much oil flow is needed) from the ECM and if you just apply voltage and constantly hold it open you can damage the component.

 

After I changed my oil and check the level. Drove around town for about a half hour making a lot of turns at low speeds and everything seems fine. Car idle steady at 600 when warm. appreciate everyone's help

 

Good candidate for an add-on oil cooler and remote filter. On my setup I increased oil capacity to 7 quarts and the oil temperature stays well within limits even during high-speed driving. These engines with the factory setups are on the limit when pushed to any degree. The stock stuff is fine for the person just commuting back and forth to work in it but there just isn't that much extra coverage for anything beyond stock.

 

Where did you install the remote filter and how accessible is it. I looked at doing this once but there just isn't a whole lot of real estate. I remember thinking that under the airbox would work but curious to see what others have done.