wheels dont matter tires sizes do.

its cheaper to run a square wheel and tire setup because you can rotate. I was going to do that but i said screw it.

i'm 8.5 +33 with minor rear issues but thats because of 265 wide tires. I'm going 235 or 245 next time around for tires.

 

i am having no luck with that number

 

http://www.mynismo.com/products/?id=7780

but I recommend these instead:
54560-RRZ30 - found here: http://www.mynismo.com/products/?id=5348

 

okay so i cleaned my throttle body due to s starting problem i mentioned earlier, and it fixed the problem !!!! but now i have a check engine light -__- i did the accelerator pedal position reset, the throttle valve closed reset, and the idle air volume learning reset, and finally i reset the ECU, but after driving around for about 10 miles and turning the car on and off about 3 times the CEL comes back on. The car runs perfect, my warm idle is at the perfect 700 RPM so im not sure what to do.

Can anyone help me out here? Should i reset my ECU first then do the 3 other resets AFTER?

Also considering how much GUNK and crap was blocking my throttle body i can onl imagine what my engine looks like, its a 2003.5 g35 6mt sedan with 150k miles, i was thinking about seafaming it only by putting it in the gas and the vaccum line. Is this safe to do with this many miles? is it reccomended? Any informtion anyone can give me and anyone who can answer these questions will help a TON, thank you all

 

if the CEL turned itself back on after you turned it off, then you have another problem... bring it to an autozone and have them hook it up to their OBDII scanner(free scan) write down teh code, and come back to find a DIY on fixing the problem

 

I might need to create a new thread for this but I'll start here first

Does anyone know if there is a specific fuse for all the door locks? If there is, can you please post up which one/s. I've looked at all the descriptions for each already but none lead to those specifically (aside from the one for the BCM)

Thanks

 

U sure its not your door lock actuators? thats what was wrong with mine...

 

^Thanks for your response

At this point I'm not sure. I would expect one to go bad though and not all at once. Did all of yours stop working by the effect of one going bad?

The reason I'm looking for an answer....

I installed the KP Tech beep module yesterday how I think it should go (I'm not good with electrical/wiring..obviously lol) and it was all working correctly. I came back to it later to tie it all in neatly and that's when it all stopped working. The module would still deliver the beep but the locks never locked/unlocked again. More weirdness...when I open my door now, the high beams will flash, on/off like 15 times then stop Both my keyfob and all the door switches don't work. There is an audible click, not actuators, coming from under the dash somewhere when I press a switch or keyfob. Like something is receiving the signal but now passing it to the doors.

So, taking a stab at installing the KP module, I winded up stabbing my car instead

 

Unhook the kp module and see if it fixes it. Sounds like you may have a wire crossed. If all was working well before its probly something you did during the installation

 

Hmmm... maybe you should try: https://g35driver.com/forums/lounge-...foam-help.html

 

Thanks, yeah, I've already ripped it all back out and still nothing works. I'm afraid something got fried during the process? Just need to figure out what.

 

Yeah, that didn't help but I'll try it anyways

 

 

Not sure if it helps, but here's the associated fuses, circled in RED should be the primary one for the door locks



Also, try disconnecting the battery for a while, let NATS and other systems re-set, especially if the Security system saw some wacky signals it may have disabled a feature. If you have OBD2 clear all codes, even if none appear.

 

^Thank you! I'll go digging through the fuses again. That looks to be the one next to the battery. I'm just gonna check them all while I'm at it