Random Little Question Thread
#5881
IIRC HID head lights come standard after 03.5; and if it comes with auto on/off head lights and sun roof, reclining rear seats then it most likely has premium package.
#5882
Actually yesw, but it's not advised, and the proper technique isn't one that most people use.
You can't put a butt connector or one of those clip on scotch locks lol. You have to solder the wires together, but you use the solder to hold the wires, NOT make the connection, the wires are looped around each other so they still make the conection.
Even then, it's not 100%, but it'll work.
You can't put a butt connector or one of those clip on scotch locks lol. You have to solder the wires together, but you use the solder to hold the wires, NOT make the connection, the wires are looped around each other so they still make the conection.
Even then, it's not 100%, but it'll work.
#5883
Is areo (Aero?) same thing as nismo? Also I noticed my mirror bases were painted, but the door handles/chrome window trim wasn't
Last edited by dominate; 03-06-2012 at 12:39 AM.
#5885
Registered User
iTrader: (85)
![Biggthumpup](https://g35driver.com/forums/images/smilies/biggthumpup.gif)
Something else I also noticed last night when I press a switch or the keyfob to lock/unlock the door, the open door light comes on in the dash so it's reading that there is an open door somewhere in the system.
#5888
![Smilie](https://g35driver.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Next step if resetting the batteries and replacing fuses doesn't work:
- test all door switches. You just open one door, the interior light comes on, then turn the key to "ON", and push the button and make sure the light dims off when you push it in. If it doesn't, then you have a bad door switch, or wiring for it. Check them all like this. Also, before you even do that, make sure you've COMPLETELY disconnected the KPL module. NOT JUST THE POWER to it. It has to be completely removed and returned to stock.
The following users liked this post:
G35Papa (03-06-2012)
#5890
Registered User
iTrader: (85)
First, thank you very much for sticking with me on this and all the great advice. I greatly appreciate it.
It's getting it from the locking/unlocking motors. Here is the instructions on how to install it
http://www.kptechnologies.com/docs/E...stallation.pdf
I think it beeps should also be working weather it be from the keyfob or from the door switches. At least that's how it was working when I installed it.
This has since gone away...no idea why. What it actually was was the cutoffs moving and the lights blinking. My car is haunted ![Icon17](https://g35driver.com/forums/images/smilies/icon17.gif)
So I connected the battery and still no go. I even replaced the fuse with a known good one just incase there was a hairline break I couldn't see. I tested all the door switches (rears there is no switch to press on the door, you just open the door so the switch is on the jam) and the interior lights came on and dimmed as they normally should. This also worked as it should via the keyfob. My aux lights are blinking as well when using the keyfob as it did before. Basically, everything appears to be working signal wise. Just nothing is getting to the door switches themselves. Could this be a blown/fried relay?
Oh and I removed the KP module Sunday evening when I couldn't get anything to work correctly. It's completely out.
Thanks!
If the module gets the beep signal from the remote, NOT the actual locking (as it SHOULD IMO, but I don't know how KPL did it), then even if the doors are open it'll beep when you press lock. If this is NOT the way it's supposed to be wired/working according to KPL, then you hooked it up wrong.
http://www.kptechnologies.com/docs/E...stallation.pdf
I think it beeps should also be working weather it be from the keyfob or from the door switches. At least that's how it was working when I installed it.
![Icon17](https://g35driver.com/forums/images/smilies/icon17.gif)
Next step if resetting the batteries and replacing fuses doesn't work:
- test all door switches. You just open one door, the interior light comes on, then turn the key to "ON", and push the button and make sure the light dims off when you push it in. If it doesn't, then you have a bad door switch, or wiring for it. Check them all like this. Also, before you even do that, make sure you've COMPLETELY disconnected the KPL module. NOT JUST THE POWER to it. It has to be completely removed and returned to stock.
- test all door switches. You just open one door, the interior light comes on, then turn the key to "ON", and push the button and make sure the light dims off when you push it in. If it doesn't, then you have a bad door switch, or wiring for it. Check them all like this. Also, before you even do that, make sure you've COMPLETELY disconnected the KPL module. NOT JUST THE POWER to it. It has to be completely removed and returned to stock.
Oh and I removed the KP module Sunday evening when I couldn't get anything to work correctly. It's completely out.
Thanks!
#5891
Registered User
iTrader: (85)
https://g35driver.com/forums/wheels-...-ask-here.html
#5892
Alright well while i was getting my inspection done today, a buddy of mine suggested I put some Z Max in. He swears by it but i just wanted to see what some people's opinions are on this, and if anyone has used it before. For people who are unfamiliar with the product here is what the description is according to their website:
"Good for automatic and manual transmissions. Compatible with all motor oils, including synthetic.
The only product of its kind, zMAX is a “micro-lubricant.” zMAX micro-molecules have been reformulated to be smaller than regular oil molecules.This allows zMAX micro-molecules to soak into metal - a product attribute none of our competitors can duplicate and because zMAX can soak into metal, it is able to disperse carbon and other harmful deposits. These deposits are a leading cause of engine damage and inefficient operation. The unique ability of zMAX to soak into metal and reduce harmful engine deposits results in:
Increased Gas Mileage
Improved Performance
Reduced Wear on Vital Engine Parts
Help clean fuel injectors and carburetors
Extended Engine Life
Reduced Emissions
For the Engine:
Cleans and conditions cylinder walls, pistons, piston rings, bearings and valves
Provides continuous lubrication of your engine’s internal parts
Protection for both new and used engines – helps with engine break in
The result is reduced wear on vital parts, longer engine life and restored power
For Fuel System:
Cleans your fuel system and conditions the combustion chambers of your engine
Removes carbon and other deposits from the intake / exhaust valves, valve guides, cylinder walls and piston rings
The result is increased gas mileage, improved performance, increased horsepower and lower emissions
For Transmission:
Cleans and lubricates the parts of your transmission
Increased lubrication helps prevent premature wear of internal transmission components
The result is smoother shifting, reduced wear and extended life for your transmission"
"Good for automatic and manual transmissions. Compatible with all motor oils, including synthetic.
The only product of its kind, zMAX is a “micro-lubricant.” zMAX micro-molecules have been reformulated to be smaller than regular oil molecules.This allows zMAX micro-molecules to soak into metal - a product attribute none of our competitors can duplicate and because zMAX can soak into metal, it is able to disperse carbon and other harmful deposits. These deposits are a leading cause of engine damage and inefficient operation. The unique ability of zMAX to soak into metal and reduce harmful engine deposits results in:
Increased Gas Mileage
Improved Performance
Reduced Wear on Vital Engine Parts
Help clean fuel injectors and carburetors
Extended Engine Life
Reduced Emissions
For the Engine:
Cleans and conditions cylinder walls, pistons, piston rings, bearings and valves
Provides continuous lubrication of your engine’s internal parts
Protection for both new and used engines – helps with engine break in
The result is reduced wear on vital parts, longer engine life and restored power
For Fuel System:
Cleans your fuel system and conditions the combustion chambers of your engine
Removes carbon and other deposits from the intake / exhaust valves, valve guides, cylinder walls and piston rings
The result is increased gas mileage, improved performance, increased horsepower and lower emissions
For Transmission:
Cleans and lubricates the parts of your transmission
Increased lubrication helps prevent premature wear of internal transmission components
The result is smoother shifting, reduced wear and extended life for your transmission"
#5893
NP dude. This is meriting a thread though I suggest you post it and shoot me the link.
In the meantime, I have a suspicion that your Master Window switch got a zap. have any buddies that you can swap one with to test it? Or try the local wreckers if you can get it cheap enough.
Ideally, more investigation should be done, but it's time consuming and difficult to explain via. the net as to proper testing procedures and locations. And this is a ground triggered AND power triggered circuit, it's complex for testing purposes without some decent electrical knowledge stored.
Try a new master switch if you're sure all the fuses under hood and in cab are good.
In the meantime, I have a suspicion that your Master Window switch got a zap. have any buddies that you can swap one with to test it? Or try the local wreckers if you can get it cheap enough.
Ideally, more investigation should be done, but it's time consuming and difficult to explain via. the net as to proper testing procedures and locations. And this is a ground triggered AND power triggered circuit, it's complex for testing purposes without some decent electrical knowledge stored.
Try a new master switch if you're sure all the fuses under hood and in cab are good.
First, thank you very much for sticking with me on this and all the great advice. I greatly appreciate it.
It's getting it from the locking/unlocking motors. Here is the instructions on how to install it
http://www.kptechnologies.com/docs/E...stallation.pdf
I think it beeps should also be working weather it be from the keyfob or from the door switches. At least that's how it was working when I installed it.
This has since gone away...no idea why. What it actually was was the cutoffs moving and the lights blinking. My car is haunted![Icon17](https://g35driver.com/forums/images/smilies/icon17.gif)
So I connected the battery and still no go. I even replaced the fuse with a known good one just incase there was a hairline break I couldn't see. I tested all the door switches (rears there is no switch to press on the door, you just open the door so the switch is on the jam) and the interior lights came on and dimmed as they normally should. This also worked as it should via the keyfob. My aux lights are blinking as well when using the keyfob as it did before. Basically, everything appears to be working signal wise. Just nothing is getting to the door switches themselves. Could this be a blown/fried relay?
Oh and I removed the KP module Sunday evening when I couldn't get anything to work correctly. It's completely out.
Thanks!
It's getting it from the locking/unlocking motors. Here is the instructions on how to install it
http://www.kptechnologies.com/docs/E...stallation.pdf
I think it beeps should also be working weather it be from the keyfob or from the door switches. At least that's how it was working when I installed it.
This has since gone away...no idea why. What it actually was was the cutoffs moving and the lights blinking. My car is haunted
![Icon17](https://g35driver.com/forums/images/smilies/icon17.gif)
So I connected the battery and still no go. I even replaced the fuse with a known good one just incase there was a hairline break I couldn't see. I tested all the door switches (rears there is no switch to press on the door, you just open the door so the switch is on the jam) and the interior lights came on and dimmed as they normally should. This also worked as it should via the keyfob. My aux lights are blinking as well when using the keyfob as it did before. Basically, everything appears to be working signal wise. Just nothing is getting to the door switches themselves. Could this be a blown/fried relay?
Oh and I removed the KP module Sunday evening when I couldn't get anything to work correctly. It's completely out.
Thanks!
The following users liked this post:
G35Papa (03-07-2012)
#5894
Alright well while i was getting my inspection done today, a buddy of mine suggested I put some Z Max in. He swears by it but i just wanted to see what some people's opinions are on this, and if anyone has used it before. For people who are unfamiliar with the product here is what the description is according to their website:
"Good for automatic and manual transmissions. Compatible with all motor oils, including synthetic.
The only product of its kind, zMAX is a “micro-lubricant.” zMAX micro-molecules have been reformulated to be smaller than regular oil molecules.This allows zMAX micro-molecules to soak into metal - a product attribute none of our competitors can duplicate and because zMAX can soak into metal, it is able to disperse carbon and other harmful deposits. These deposits are a leading cause of engine damage and inefficient operation. The unique ability of zMAX to soak into metal and reduce harmful engine deposits results in:
Increased Gas Mileage
Improved Performance
Reduced Wear on Vital Engine Parts
Help clean fuel injectors and carburetors
Extended Engine Life
Reduced Emissions
For the Engine:
Cleans and conditions cylinder walls, pistons, piston rings, bearings and valves
Provides continuous lubrication of your engine’s internal parts
Protection for both new and used engines – helps with engine break in
The result is reduced wear on vital parts, longer engine life and restored power
For Fuel System:
Cleans your fuel system and conditions the combustion chambers of your engine
Removes carbon and other deposits from the intake / exhaust valves, valve guides, cylinder walls and piston rings
The result is increased gas mileage, improved performance, increased horsepower and lower emissions
For Transmission:
Cleans and lubricates the parts of your transmission
Increased lubrication helps prevent premature wear of internal transmission components
The result is smoother shifting, reduced wear and extended life for your transmission"
"Good for automatic and manual transmissions. Compatible with all motor oils, including synthetic.
The only product of its kind, zMAX is a “micro-lubricant.” zMAX micro-molecules have been reformulated to be smaller than regular oil molecules.This allows zMAX micro-molecules to soak into metal - a product attribute none of our competitors can duplicate and because zMAX can soak into metal, it is able to disperse carbon and other harmful deposits. These deposits are a leading cause of engine damage and inefficient operation. The unique ability of zMAX to soak into metal and reduce harmful engine deposits results in:
Increased Gas Mileage
Improved Performance
Reduced Wear on Vital Engine Parts
Help clean fuel injectors and carburetors
Extended Engine Life
Reduced Emissions
For the Engine:
Cleans and conditions cylinder walls, pistons, piston rings, bearings and valves
Provides continuous lubrication of your engine’s internal parts
Protection for both new and used engines – helps with engine break in
The result is reduced wear on vital parts, longer engine life and restored power
For Fuel System:
Cleans your fuel system and conditions the combustion chambers of your engine
Removes carbon and other deposits from the intake / exhaust valves, valve guides, cylinder walls and piston rings
The result is increased gas mileage, improved performance, increased horsepower and lower emissions
For Transmission:
Cleans and lubricates the parts of your transmission
Increased lubrication helps prevent premature wear of internal transmission components
The result is smoother shifting, reduced wear and extended life for your transmission"
Last edited by thescreensavers; 03-07-2012 at 04:48 PM.
#5895
Registered User
iTrader: (85)
NP dude. This is meriting a thread though I suggest you post it and shoot me the link.
In the meantime, I have a suspicion that your Master Window switch got a zap. have any buddies that you can swap one with to test it? Or try the local wreckers if you can get it cheap enough.
Ideally, more investigation should be done, but it's time consuming and difficult to explain via. the net as to proper testing procedures and locations. And this is a ground triggered AND power triggered circuit, it's complex for testing purposes without some decent electrical knowledge stored.
Try a new master switch if you're sure all the fuses under hood and in cab are good.
In the meantime, I have a suspicion that your Master Window switch got a zap. have any buddies that you can swap one with to test it? Or try the local wreckers if you can get it cheap enough.
Ideally, more investigation should be done, but it's time consuming and difficult to explain via. the net as to proper testing procedures and locations. And this is a ground triggered AND power triggered circuit, it's complex for testing purposes without some decent electrical knowledge stored.
Try a new master switch if you're sure all the fuses under hood and in cab are good.
Thanks