Random Little Question Thread
#5851
#5852
BC racing coilovers or megan racing coilovers.
On another note. I plan on getting some new wheels but am not sure of offsets and such. Will these wheels work with my o6 X? They're F:19x9.5 +22 R:19x10 +25 ? They also have a 19x8.5 +35mm. These are the VMR 710's btw. Can I run the 19x9.5F and 19x10R without any issues? Or am I better off running 19x9.5 squared? Thanks for any help.
On another note. I plan on getting some new wheels but am not sure of offsets and such. Will these wheels work with my o6 X? They're F:19x9.5 +22 R:19x10 +25 ? They also have a 19x8.5 +35mm. These are the VMR 710's btw. Can I run the 19x9.5F and 19x10R without any issues? Or am I better off running 19x9.5 squared? Thanks for any help.
its cheaper to run a square wheel and tire setup because you can rotate. I was going to do that but i said screw it.
i'm 8.5 +33 with minor rear issues but thats because of 265 wide tires. I'm going 235 or 245 next time around for tires.
The following users liked this post:
617DG35x (03-02-2012)
#5854
http://www.mynismo.com/products/?id=7780
but I recommend these instead:
54560-RRZ30 - found here: http://www.mynismo.com/products/?id=5348
but I recommend these instead:
54560-RRZ30 - found here: http://www.mynismo.com/products/?id=5348
#5855
okay so i cleaned my throttle body due to s starting problem i mentioned earlier, and it fixed the problem !!!! but now i have a check engine light -__- i did the accelerator pedal position reset, the throttle valve closed reset, and the idle air volume learning reset, and finally i reset the ECU, but after driving around for about 10 miles and turning the car on and off about 3 times the CEL comes back on. The car runs perfect, my warm idle is at the perfect 700 RPM so im not sure what to do.
Can anyone help me out here? Should i reset my ECU first then do the 3 other resets AFTER?
Also considering how much GUNK and crap was blocking my throttle body i can onl imagine what my engine looks like, its a 2003.5 g35 6mt sedan with 150k miles, i was thinking about seafaming it only by putting it in the gas and the vaccum line. Is this safe to do with this many miles? is it reccomended? Any informtion anyone can give me and anyone who can answer these questions will help a TON, thank you all
Can anyone help me out here? Should i reset my ECU first then do the 3 other resets AFTER?
Also considering how much GUNK and crap was blocking my throttle body i can onl imagine what my engine looks like, its a 2003.5 g35 6mt sedan with 150k miles, i was thinking about seafaming it only by putting it in the gas and the vaccum line. Is this safe to do with this many miles? is it reccomended? Any informtion anyone can give me and anyone who can answer these questions will help a TON, thank you all
#5856
okay so i cleaned my throttle body due to s starting problem i mentioned earlier, and it fixed the problem !!!! but now i have a check engine light -__- i did the accelerator pedal position reset, the throttle valve closed reset, and the idle air volume learning reset, and finally i reset the ECU, but after driving around for about 10 miles and turning the car on and off about 3 times the CEL comes back on. The car runs perfect, my warm idle is at the perfect 700 RPM so im not sure what to do.
Can anyone help me out here? Should i reset my ECU first then do the 3 other resets AFTER?
Also considering how much GUNK and crap was blocking my throttle body i can onl imagine what my engine looks like, its a 2003.5 g35 6mt sedan with 150k miles, i was thinking about seafaming it only by putting it in the gas and the vaccum line. Is this safe to do with this many miles? is it reccomended? Any informtion anyone can give me and anyone who can answer these questions will help a TON, thank you all
Can anyone help me out here? Should i reset my ECU first then do the 3 other resets AFTER?
Also considering how much GUNK and crap was blocking my throttle body i can onl imagine what my engine looks like, its a 2003.5 g35 6mt sedan with 150k miles, i was thinking about seafaming it only by putting it in the gas and the vaccum line. Is this safe to do with this many miles? is it reccomended? Any informtion anyone can give me and anyone who can answer these questions will help a TON, thank you all
#5857
Registered User
iTrader: (85)
I might need to create a new thread for this but I'll start here first
Does anyone know if there is a specific fuse for all the door locks? If there is, can you please post up which one/s. I've looked at all the descriptions for each already but none lead to those specifically (aside from the one for the BCM)
Thanks
Does anyone know if there is a specific fuse for all the door locks? If there is, can you please post up which one/s. I've looked at all the descriptions for each already but none lead to those specifically (aside from the one for the BCM)
Thanks
#5858
I might need to create a new thread for this but I'll start here first
Does anyone know if there is a specific fuse for all the door locks? If there is, can you please post up which one/s. I've looked at all the descriptions for each already but none lead to those specifically (aside from the one for the BCM)
Thanks
Does anyone know if there is a specific fuse for all the door locks? If there is, can you please post up which one/s. I've looked at all the descriptions for each already but none lead to those specifically (aside from the one for the BCM)
Thanks
#5859
Registered User
iTrader: (85)
^Thanks for your response
At this point I'm not sure. I would expect one to go bad though and not all at once. Did all of yours stop working by the effect of one going bad?
The reason I'm looking for an answer....
I installed the KP Tech beep module yesterday how I think it should go (I'm not good with electrical/wiring..obviously lol) and it was all working correctly. I came back to it later to tie it all in neatly and that's when it all stopped working. The module would still deliver the beep but the locks never locked/unlocked again. More weirdness...when I open my door now, the high beams will flash, on/off like 15 times then stop Both my keyfob and all the door switches don't work. There is an audible click, not actuators, coming from under the dash somewhere when I press a switch or keyfob. Like something is receiving the signal but now passing it to the doors.
So, taking a stab at installing the KP module, I winded up stabbing my car instead
At this point I'm not sure. I would expect one to go bad though and not all at once. Did all of yours stop working by the effect of one going bad?
The reason I'm looking for an answer....
I installed the KP Tech beep module yesterday how I think it should go (I'm not good with electrical/wiring..obviously lol) and it was all working correctly. I came back to it later to tie it all in neatly and that's when it all stopped working. The module would still deliver the beep but the locks never locked/unlocked again. More weirdness...when I open my door now, the high beams will flash, on/off like 15 times then stop Both my keyfob and all the door switches don't work. There is an audible click, not actuators, coming from under the dash somewhere when I press a switch or keyfob. Like something is receiving the signal but now passing it to the doors.
So, taking a stab at installing the KP module, I winded up stabbing my car instead
#5860
#5861
I can haz potato?
iTrader: (4)
^Thanks for your response
At this point I'm not sure. I would expect one to go bad though and not all at once. Did all of yours stop working by the effect of one going bad?
The reason I'm looking for an answer....
I installed the KP Tech beep module yesterday how I think it should go (I'm not good with electrical/wiring..obviously lol) and it was all working correctly. I came back to it later to tie it all in neatly and that's when it all stopped working. The module would still deliver the beep but the locks never locked/unlocked again. More weirdness...when I open my door now, the high beams will flash, on/off like 15 times then stop Both my keyfob and all the door switches don't work. There is an audible click, not actuators, coming from under the dash somewhere when I press a switch or keyfob. Like something is receiving the signal but now passing it to the doors.
So, taking a stab at installing the KP module, I winded up stabbing my car instead
At this point I'm not sure. I would expect one to go bad though and not all at once. Did all of yours stop working by the effect of one going bad?
The reason I'm looking for an answer....
I installed the KP Tech beep module yesterday how I think it should go (I'm not good with electrical/wiring..obviously lol) and it was all working correctly. I came back to it later to tie it all in neatly and that's when it all stopped working. The module would still deliver the beep but the locks never locked/unlocked again. More weirdness...when I open my door now, the high beams will flash, on/off like 15 times then stop Both my keyfob and all the door switches don't work. There is an audible click, not actuators, coming from under the dash somewhere when I press a switch or keyfob. Like something is receiving the signal but now passing it to the doors.
So, taking a stab at installing the KP module, I winded up stabbing my car instead
#5863
Registered User
iTrader: (85)
Hmmm... maybe you should try: https://g35driver.com/forums/lounge-...foam-help.html
#5865
Not sure if it helps, but here's the associated fuses, circled in RED should be the primary one for the door locks
Also, try disconnecting the battery for a while, let NATS and other systems re-set, especially if the Security system saw some wacky signals it may have disabled a feature. If you have OBD2 clear all codes, even if none appear.
Also, try disconnecting the battery for a while, let NATS and other systems re-set, especially if the Security system saw some wacky signals it may have disabled a feature. If you have OBD2 clear all codes, even if none appear.
The following users liked this post:
G35Papa (03-05-2012)