I thought that was all on the CAN bus?

 

everything pretty much is hooked into the CAN bus on the car. I'm not yet familiar with this system, nor the bulk of the G's wiring, I'm just getting started into it.

What I do know so, is it seems to be in bulk, a 'monitoring' system. It's looking for specific signals, signal lengths, imputs/outputs, etc.
It's complex and I have a lot to learn about it. But the little I know still points me to the Master switch. The CAN bus could be seeing something it doesn't like and is cutting the actuation off, it's possible, but it's way to complex to get into that portion. And we're not anywhere near that juncture yet.

Basically there seems to be 2 signals. 1 is the ground signal from the BCM that goes through the Master switch. Power seems to be triggered also, but is coming directly out of the BCM to the Actuators, and returns through the BCM and grounds through the Master switch. Confused yet?

In either event, if his master switch circuitry got an overload of current and popped a circuit line (happens often once you start messing with wiring after the BCM without proper protection circuitry), then all his actuators wont work, period. Everything else will but the actual actuation won't do anything.

 

whats the CAN bus?

 

Short answer:

Controller
Area
Network

It's basically a two wire data bus that connects almost every electronic component in the vehicle.

 

What's the CANT bus then?

 

 

My car's a/c won't turn on and the entire display that shows the compass outside temp and all that won't turn on.
The radio still works fine.
My shift lock will not disengage unless I do it manually.

What fuse or relay should I be looking to replace?
Thanks

 

Common issue I believe it's caused by a faulty circuit board/connection in the Audio Unit. I'll be taking mine apart to try and find it and fix it sometime in the future but it's low on my list of htings to do.

There may be a write up on it I dont know, but most guys will tell you to replace your Stereo to fix it.

 

The radio is still working perfectly though. Could it be anything else

 

Anythings possible. But why would you suspect anything else, when the exact symptoms you describe point directly to a common issue that almost ALL G35's in 2003/2004 had, or will have?

But if you want to look for something else because you didn't like the answer given, that's cool.

 

There's a couple of reasons why I think it's something else:
1. I was trying to follow this DIY but failed Post #20
2. I was messing around with some of the wiring and created an unwanted short circuit which precipitated these symptoms, they didn't just come about on their own. I doubt it's likely that a short circuit under the dash could have caused my radio unit's circuit board to go bad.

Also, another thing I noticed today while driving is that I can no longer use the cruise control. It turns on but I can't set it to a certain speed..

I must point out that I really appreciate your help and I'm not saying you're wrong. I know we could all be doing something else rather than trying to help others on the internet. I just think this isn't related and if someone is willing to try to convince me otherwise or take a different stab at it then I'm all ears.

Thanks.

 

^Should've included the recent tampering/short in your post brah.

The obvious question: Have you checked all your fuses? Everything you mention is associated with a blown fuse.

And all of the items are linked to your Brake switch, except the HVAC screen.

 

Yes that was my mistake.
No I haven't checked all of the fuses yet, as I don't have a tool for that and most of them aren't see-thru.
I was hoping someone here could point me to the correct one, but I guess I'll just have to find it myself.

Also I should mention I left the battery disconnected overnight and that didn't fix the issue.

I'm assuming there is a fuse that deals with the brake switch?

Edit: Apparently, there are four fuses that have some control over the braking system and if any one of the four goes out, it will lock the shifter.

 

All you really need to quickly check fuses, without even pulling them out, under $6 at any local parts store:



12 VDC Incandecent test light.Hook the clamp to a good ground, and probe one side of the fuse with the key in the "ON" position. You should have power, now check the opposite side, you should have power there too. If you have power on ONLY ONE SIDE of any fuse, that fuse is blown.

As to the specific one to check, They're labled. But i don't know which one it is and I don't have my car here to check for you. With the above tool though you can easily check all of them in under 2 minutes.

 

Thanks for all the help again.

I'll post back after I check all the fuses