G35 Sedan V35 2003-06 Discussion about the 1st Generation V35 G35 Sedan

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  #5881  
Old 03-05-2012, 11:43 PM
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Originally Posted by NFSP G35
Xenon=HID and a separate option as well.
One thing you missed, and a dead giveaway for a sport package is red shocks (that are built a bit better than the base model) and different springs to match.
^ You beat me to it. Incorrect on the wheel though, the 5-spoke wheel and tire are actually the same size as the non-sport wheel, only difference is the Summer tires.

IIRC HID head lights come standard after 03.5; and if it comes with auto on/off head lights and sun roof, reclining rear seats then it most likely has premium package.
 
  #5882  
Old 03-06-2012, 12:21 AM
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Originally Posted by shane11
nope. did one of mine, still getting a cel.
Originally Posted by TunerMax
Actually yesw, but it's not advised, and the proper technique isn't one that most people use.
You can't put a butt connector or one of those clip on scotch locks lol. You have to solder the wires together, but you use the solder to hold the wires, NOT make the connection, the wires are looped around each other so they still make the conection.

Even then, it's not 100%, but it'll work.
I just need it long enough to last me to when I get the car smogged. I don't want to have to buy a new harness because I'm sure labor is going to be expensive having to run it into the firewall and whatnot. I actually also need to find out what color wires from bank 2 connect to each other. I have a new o2 sensor that I can use but still doesn't help since I don't have the opposite side's plug. I've seen these extension kits on PasswordJDM's website, but not sure if that will help any.
 
  #5883  
Old 03-06-2012, 12:24 AM
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Originally Posted by NFSP G35
^Nissan didn't paint the lower trim on any of them that didn't have the nismo/areo package.

As for the shift ****, I think that changed in 04.5
Is areo (Aero?) same thing as nismo? Also I noticed my mirror bases were painted, but the door handles/chrome window trim wasn't
 

Last edited by dominate; 03-06-2012 at 12:39 AM.
  #5884  
Old 03-06-2012, 07:29 AM
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^more or less used interchangeably here. If your mirror bases and lower sills are painted, it sounds like the whole car probably was.
 
  #5885  
Old 03-06-2012, 11:50 AM
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Originally Posted by r1forever80
HOPE ya get it figured out. It would suck if the bcm got fried. Thats not cheap. I should know i drilled a hole in mine running my airlines and 300 bucks later and a few facepalms i was up and running again
Thanks man. I'm hoping it's not fried too! The fuse looked ok from a visual check. I disconnected the battery and will connect that back up tonight with my fingers crossed

Something else I also noticed last night when I press a switch or the keyfob to lock/unlock the door, the open door light comes on in the dash so it's reading that there is an open door somewhere in the system.
 
  #5886  
Old 03-06-2012, 12:22 PM
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You done broke something
 
  #5887  
Old 03-06-2012, 12:26 PM
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Sumtin is def broke
 
  #5888  
Old 03-06-2012, 05:34 PM
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Originally Posted by G35Papa
Thanks man. I'm hoping it's not fried too! The fuse looked ok from a visual check. I disconnected the battery and will connect that back up tonight with my fingers crossed
Hopefully

Originally Posted by G35Papa
Something else I also noticed last night when I press a switch or the keyfob to lock/unlock the door, the open door light comes on in the dash so it's reading that there is an open door somewhere in the system.
This is strange, but also kind of good, it means that you can chase the fault. It also gives us somewhere to look. But it leads me back to your OP about this:


Originally Posted by G35Papa
The module would still deliver the beep but the locks never locked/unlocked again.
If the module gets the beep signal from the remote, NOT the actual locking (as it SHOULD IMO, but I don't know how KPL did it), then even if the doors are open it'll beep when you press lock. If this is NOT the way it's supposed to be wired/working according to KPL, then you hooked it up wrong.

Originally Posted by G35Papa
More weirdness...when I open my door now, the high beams will flash, on/off like 15 times then stop
This I overlooked, this sounds like your alarm going off! Seems that if you've disabled your stock horn and the 2nd horn for the alarm is also disabled, or broken/not connected, then perhaps your alarm is going off and you just don't have the audible noise.

Originally Posted by G35Papa
Both my keyfob and all the door switches don't work. There is an audible click, not actuators, coming from under the dash somewhere when I press a switch or keyfob. Like something is receiving the signal but now passing it to the doors.
This is just a relay clicking, but it's a good sign, as you say, the BCM is likely getting the signal from the Fab, it's just not actually sending it out to the doors.


Next step if resetting the batteries and replacing fuses doesn't work:
- test all door switches. You just open one door, the interior light comes on, then turn the key to "ON", and push the button and make sure the light dims off when you push it in. If it doesn't, then you have a bad door switch, or wiring for it. Check them all like this. Also, before you even do that, make sure you've COMPLETELY disconnected the KPL module. NOT JUST THE POWER to it. It has to be completely removed and returned to stock.
 
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  #5889  
Old 03-06-2012, 05:48 PM
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Thinking about getting new rims on 05 G35 coupe, hard to find same rim size 19x8 front and 19x8.5 rear, thinking about going 20x10 all around ANY ADVICE?
 
  #5890  
Old 03-06-2012, 10:46 PM
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First, thank you very much for sticking with me on this and all the great advice. I greatly appreciate it.

Originally Posted by TunerMax
If the module gets the beep signal from the remote, NOT the actual locking (as it SHOULD IMO, but I don't know how KPL did it), then even if the doors are open it'll beep when you press lock. If this is NOT the way it's supposed to be wired/working according to KPL, then you hooked it up wrong.
It's getting it from the locking/unlocking motors. Here is the instructions on how to install it
http://www.kptechnologies.com/docs/E...stallation.pdf

I think it beeps should also be working weather it be from the keyfob or from the door switches. At least that's how it was working when I installed it.

Originally Posted by TunerMax
This I overlooked, this sounds like your alarm going off! Seems that if you've disabled your stock horn and the 2nd horn for the alarm is also disabled, or broken/not connected, then perhaps your alarm is going off and you just don't have the audible noise.
This has since gone away...no idea why. What it actually was was the cutoffs moving and the lights blinking. My car is haunted

Originally Posted by TunerMax
Next step if resetting the batteries and replacing fuses doesn't work:
- test all door switches. You just open one door, the interior light comes on, then turn the key to "ON", and push the button and make sure the light dims off when you push it in. If it doesn't, then you have a bad door switch, or wiring for it. Check them all like this. Also, before you even do that, make sure you've COMPLETELY disconnected the KPL module. NOT JUST THE POWER to it. It has to be completely removed and returned to stock.
So I connected the battery and still no go. I even replaced the fuse with a known good one just incase there was a hairline break I couldn't see. I tested all the door switches (rears there is no switch to press on the door, you just open the door so the switch is on the jam) and the interior lights came on and dimmed as they normally should. This also worked as it should via the keyfob. My aux lights are blinking as well when using the keyfob as it did before. Basically, everything appears to be working signal wise. Just nothing is getting to the door switches themselves. Could this be a blown/fried relay?

Oh and I removed the KP module Sunday evening when I couldn't get anything to work correctly. It's completely out.

Thanks!
 
  #5891  
Old 03-06-2012, 10:49 PM
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Originally Posted by g35BLUR
Thinking about getting new rims on 05 G35 coupe, hard to find same rim size 19x8 front and 19x8.5 rear, thinking about going 20x10 all around ANY ADVICE?
Post your question here. You should get a quicker response.
https://g35driver.com/forums/wheels-...-ask-here.html
 
  #5892  
Old 03-07-2012, 01:12 AM
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Alright well while i was getting my inspection done today, a buddy of mine suggested I put some Z Max in. He swears by it but i just wanted to see what some people's opinions are on this, and if anyone has used it before. For people who are unfamiliar with the product here is what the description is according to their website:

"Good for automatic and manual transmissions. Compatible with all motor oils, including synthetic.
The only product of its kind, zMAX is a “micro-lubricant.” zMAX micro-molecules have been reformulated to be smaller than regular oil molecules.This allows zMAX micro-molecules to soak into metal - a product attribute none of our competitors can duplicate and because zMAX can soak into metal, it is able to disperse carbon and other harmful deposits. These deposits are a leading cause of engine damage and inefficient operation. The unique ability of zMAX to soak into metal and reduce harmful engine deposits results in:

Increased Gas Mileage
Improved Performance
Reduced Wear on Vital Engine Parts
Help clean fuel injectors and carburetors
Extended Engine Life
Reduced Emissions
For the Engine:

Cleans and conditions cylinder walls, pistons, piston rings, bearings and valves
Provides continuous lubrication of your engine’s internal parts
Protection for both new and used engines – helps with engine break in
The result is reduced wear on vital parts, longer engine life and restored power

For Fuel System:

Cleans your fuel system and conditions the combustion chambers of your engine
Removes carbon and other deposits from the intake / exhaust valves, valve guides, cylinder walls and piston rings
The result is increased gas mileage, improved performance, increased horsepower and lower emissions

For Transmission:

Cleans and lubricates the parts of your transmission
Increased lubrication helps prevent premature wear of internal transmission components
The result is smoother shifting, reduced wear and extended life for your transmission"
 
  #5893  
Old 03-07-2012, 10:00 AM
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NP dude. This is meriting a thread though I suggest you post it and shoot me the link.

In the meantime, I have a suspicion that your Master Window switch got a zap. have any buddies that you can swap one with to test it? Or try the local wreckers if you can get it cheap enough.

Ideally, more investigation should be done, but it's time consuming and difficult to explain via. the net as to proper testing procedures and locations. And this is a ground triggered AND power triggered circuit, it's complex for testing purposes without some decent electrical knowledge stored.

Try a new master switch if you're sure all the fuses under hood and in cab are good.

Originally Posted by G35Papa
First, thank you very much for sticking with me on this and all the great advice. I greatly appreciate it.



It's getting it from the locking/unlocking motors. Here is the instructions on how to install it
http://www.kptechnologies.com/docs/E...stallation.pdf

I think it beeps should also be working weather it be from the keyfob or from the door switches. At least that's how it was working when I installed it.



This has since gone away...no idea why. What it actually was was the cutoffs moving and the lights blinking. My car is haunted



So I connected the battery and still no go. I even replaced the fuse with a known good one just incase there was a hairline break I couldn't see. I tested all the door switches (rears there is no switch to press on the door, you just open the door so the switch is on the jam) and the interior lights came on and dimmed as they normally should. This also worked as it should via the keyfob. My aux lights are blinking as well when using the keyfob as it did before. Basically, everything appears to be working signal wise. Just nothing is getting to the door switches themselves. Could this be a blown/fried relay?

Oh and I removed the KP module Sunday evening when I couldn't get anything to work correctly. It's completely out.

Thanks!
 
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  #5894  
Old 03-07-2012, 04:43 PM
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Originally Posted by X-Rated
Alright well while i was getting my inspection done today, a buddy of mine suggested I put some Z Max in. He swears by it but i just wanted to see what some people's opinions are on this, and if anyone has used it before. For people who are unfamiliar with the product here is what the description is according to their website:

"Good for automatic and manual transmissions. Compatible with all motor oils, including synthetic.
The only product of its kind, zMAX is a “micro-lubricant.” zMAX micro-molecules have been reformulated to be smaller than regular oil molecules.This allows zMAX micro-molecules to soak into metal - a product attribute none of our competitors can duplicate and because zMAX can soak into metal, it is able to disperse carbon and other harmful deposits. These deposits are a leading cause of engine damage and inefficient operation. The unique ability of zMAX to soak into metal and reduce harmful engine deposits results in:

Increased Gas Mileage
Improved Performance
Reduced Wear on Vital Engine Parts
Help clean fuel injectors and carburetors
Extended Engine Life
Reduced Emissions
For the Engine:

Cleans and conditions cylinder walls, pistons, piston rings, bearings and valves
Provides continuous lubrication of your engine’s internal parts
Protection for both new and used engines – helps with engine break in
The result is reduced wear on vital parts, longer engine life and restored power

For Fuel System:

Cleans your fuel system and conditions the combustion chambers of your engine
Removes carbon and other deposits from the intake / exhaust valves, valve guides, cylinder walls and piston rings
The result is increased gas mileage, improved performance, increased horsepower and lower emissions

For Transmission:

Cleans and lubricates the parts of your transmission
Increased lubrication helps prevent premature wear of internal transmission components
The result is smoother shifting, reduced wear and extended life for your transmission"
Skip it, its snake oil. its >99% mineral oil (via msds)
 

Last edited by thescreensavers; 03-07-2012 at 04:48 PM.
  #5895  
Old 03-07-2012, 06:09 PM
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Originally Posted by TunerMax
NP dude. This is meriting a thread though I suggest you post it and shoot me the link.

In the meantime, I have a suspicion that your Master Window switch got a zap. have any buddies that you can swap one with to test it? Or try the local wreckers if you can get it cheap enough.

Ideally, more investigation should be done, but it's time consuming and difficult to explain via. the net as to proper testing procedures and locations. And this is a ground triggered AND power triggered circuit, it's complex for testing purposes without some decent electrical knowledge stored.

Try a new master switch if you're sure all the fuses under hood and in cab are good.
Sending you a PM

Thanks
 


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