i just glanced at the shoe and like almost all G's i've seen the shoes were GREAT! full of life because I barely park on slopes or etc.

i dont think its squeaky brakes because its not happen under braking, just very very low speeds. Guess i'll take apart the rears and relube the slides and backings when i get down to it.

I wanna say its the rears but its very hard to tell and make happen all the time.

 

The reason it could be the emergency brake shoes:

The shoes are cable activated. They don't actually brake, the only time these do anything is if you try and move the car without releasing the ebrake (we've all done it), or if your cable is sticking, which is very common as these car's get older.

Personally, I have a sticking right rear that I just found. It only sticks after sitting for a while (overnight). Though it's most prominant in the first movement, under 10 miles/hr, it still sticks ever so slightly after that, and that wears the shoe down.

Over time, this effect will cause the shoes to wear to the rivets, this can happen super fast actually, as the amount of pad on the e-brake shoes is next to nothing when they're brand new.

This isn't to say this is your issue, at all. Just something to consider.

It IS a rotational (speed dependant) noise, right? It gets more frequent the faster you drive?

 

Anybody have any idea what happened to the OEM from lip for Nismos? Did they make it or what? I really want one.

 

FYI: If anyone was looking the Pin/Clip that holds the 5AT shift **** is part# 34922-AC50A

 

If I get the 19" M45 Sport Package wheels, I plan on getting spacers, but I would also need extended lugs also, correct? And I don't need extended studs? Also do you guys think these no name brand ones should be fine, or would you recommend going with something like Rays? These are only 25% of the price of the Rays...thanks http://www.ebay.com/itm/RED-20-EXTEN...ht_2270wt_1270

 

I think Eric has one, but it only fits certain ones

 

I got a question if I got 350z struts and dropped my front like 2.5 and the rear 1.5 would they blow out quick ? I can't really affored a front camber kit and coils so I'm trying to get by with a camber kit and some springs.

 

This is a hard question.

Are you saying you'll be dropping 2.5"//1.5" from STOCK G35 Sedan height?

If so, then you should be ok with the 350Z struts for some time, assuming the struts are new. If they're used it's anyones guess.

It's important to note that spring rates are as important as the drop amount, if not more so.
The damper/spring need to be matched to some extent. If you're running spring rates close to the 350Z rates, and the drop is within 1" of stock 350Z height, then you'll be ok.

It's when you waiver more than 1" and also waiver in spring rate that you're asking for troubles.

 

Yes I will be dropping that much from stock. I have 350 s techs up front now and z springs in back with my stock sport struts. I wanna drop the front another inch on some springs and get a camber kit if I can get away with not having to buy tokico dampers. Then throw my s techs back on the rear. If I have to then I might as well get coils but I don't have the money to do it. So your saying the lower the spring the more stiff they need to be?

 

Like how do I rate my drop to spring rates over 1" ? Is there a table or comparison of suspension drop to spring rates of how I can determine what I need? I'm not that worried about ride quality It doesn't have to feel like I'm riding in a caddy. I jist don't wanna struts blowing out too fast or any other issues with the car. Thanks for your help bro

 

No not really, they just need to match the Damper (strut).

Some helpful explainations about spring rate:

"Spring Rate is the amount of weight needed to compress a spring a certain distance."
"Springs are rated in LB/in (in metric system kg/mm)
"This is How many pounds of weight are required to depress the spring by one inch. "
"To convert LB/in to kg/mm international, you must divide divide figure by 56."

EX: Consider you have 2 springs having different spring rates: One with 345 g/mm and the other with 480 g/mm. So what does it mean?

It means the 1st spring will compress 1 mm if you put a load of 345 grams, while the 2nd one will not. The 2nd one will need a 480 g. load to compress 1 mm.

According to this, we can say that the 2nd spring is harder than the 1st one, or we can state that:

"Springs that have a low Spring Rate are soft, while springs that have a high Spring Rate are stiffer."

As for the spring rates, I couldn't find stock rates fast but rest assured, that info is on my350z, of that I have no doubt. This thread is close:

http://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-s...d-reviews.html

Basically, you'll want to find the stock 350Zspring rate and match it as close as possible.

If you're lowering 2.5" from stock G35 sedan height, that's only 0.5-1.0" off the stock 350Z height. This means, you're putting springs that are 1/2-1" lower than intended for those 350Z dampers (struts).
This is a great set-up, that should ensure you don't roast your struts quickly. However, you are still lowering your car siginifigantly in all other aspects, so you do need a front camber arm, and rear camber arm with some toe bolts.

You'd need these with coils also, so may as well just get them.

 

Anyone have advice for me? Thanks

 

any spacers require longer STUDS
you can buy spacers that have studs built into them though, if you wish.

Your lug nuts themselves should not change, unless your rim lug nut style is different, ie. aftermarket 'tuner' style, or Shank style, like many new OEM rims are.

 

i have an 06 sedan. how can i tell if i have sport suspension? anyone know where i can buy 350z struts?

 

^ here you go: and uhhh, try the Z marketplace?

if you googled your own question you would have gotten the same result I did.
anyways, read this.............................................. .................................................. ......

https://g35driver.com/forums/buying-...t-package.html