Random Little Question Thread
Ok so just to confirm NSFP is 100% correct, there's a High and a Low horn, but both of them do function with either feature.
The ECM controls this by alternating grounds/power, thusly when you press the LOCK button, the horns are wired in series, causing a quieter noise, and when you press the Steering wheel they're running full voltage.
When the alarm goes off this feature alternates.
The ECM controls this by alternating grounds/power, thusly when you press the LOCK button, the horns are wired in series, causing a quieter noise, and when you press the Steering wheel they're running full voltage.
When the alarm goes off this feature alternates.
would this be an easy diy or i should bring the G into a shop?
any suggestion to how i should tackle this problem? maybe there are clear indication that it is a bad ground?
That's weird, cool to know! Thanks dude.
I have to pull my grill off to clearcoat it tonight so I'll try it for shyt and gigs while waiting for the clear to dry.
Wonder if it could be a bad ground, if they share a common ground?
I'll look when my grill is off and see if I can shed some insight
I have to pull my grill off to clearcoat it tonight so I'll try it for shyt and gigs while waiting for the clear to dry.
Wonder if it could be a bad ground, if they share a common ground?
I'll look when my grill is off and see if I can shed some insight
Unfortunately No, you can't do much with the grounds. And after checking that circuit, it's actually unlikely to be a ground issue.
My first checks would be the horns. Supply them with a known good 12V jumper on + and - and see if they work.
If the horns are good you can then check your wiring, just follow it as far as you can and make sure nothing is rubbing or chaffed.
Pop the grill off and start looking around.
My first checks would be the horns. Supply them with a known good 12V jumper on + and - and see if they work.
If the horns are good you can then check your wiring, just follow it as far as you can and make sure nothing is rubbing or chaffed.
Pop the grill off and start looking around.
let me be clear, the horn does not work when i push on my steering wheel and it also doesnt work when i lock my car. I dont know why my fuse keeps going bad; i know if i replace it, i will be in the same predicament i am now. Anyone have any suggestions why this is happening? Thanks in advance! 

Lol horns would be the worst thing to test. Make sure you wear ear protection...
I have a question!!
At the rear of my 2003 G35 sedan a piece of metal has completely rusted and fallen apart (Its under the body). Its near the muffler. Ill try to get a picture tonight.
I noticed it when I was mounting my rear lip, wondering if I have to get it replaced because it looks impossible to diy. It had some weird flaps and plastic hooks behind it.
I have a question!!
At the rear of my 2003 G35 sedan a piece of metal has completely rusted and fallen apart (Its under the body). Its near the muffler. Ill try to get a picture tonight.
I noticed it when I was mounting my rear lip, wondering if I have to get it replaced because it looks impossible to diy. It had some weird flaps and plastic hooks behind it.
perhaps a bad horn? when my headlight ballast was bad my fuse kept popping too, i replaced the headlight and everything and when i switched ballasts from one side to another, the other fuse popped, so I knew it was the ballast. idk if the horns are wired in series but if not, maybe try removing one and then replacing the fuse and testing, and then removing the other? or if you have a friend with a G swap horns and check your fuses then. idk where the horns are or how to remove em but hopefully this will help 

This was exactly what I found out today. My high tone horn was out and the low was still working. Im assuming that because one has stopped working, and the car is switching back from high and low is whats making the fuse go bad. The only way i will find out is replacing the high tone horn and wish for the best!
Unfortunately No, you can't do much with the grounds. And after checking that circuit, it's actually unlikely to be a ground issue.
My first checks would be the horns. Supply them with a known good 12V jumper on + and - and see if they work.
If the horns are good you can then check your wiring, just follow it as far as you can and make sure nothing is rubbing or chaffed.
Pop the grill off and start looking around.
My first checks would be the horns. Supply them with a known good 12V jumper on + and - and see if they work.
If the horns are good you can then check your wiring, just follow it as far as you can and make sure nothing is rubbing or chaffed.
Pop the grill off and start looking around.
I was looking to purchase some oem brembos when I came across this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Big-Brake-Ki...87d3d7&vxp=mtr
It uses the stock 2006 rotors so I could run a stoptech front and rear rotor kit. I've done alittle research but no real reviews of it. I know its not a factory wilwood kit but it seems like a cheap alternative. Just trying to see what you guys think about it.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Big-Brake-Ki...87d3d7&vxp=mtr
It uses the stock 2006 rotors so I could run a stoptech front and rear rotor kit. I've done alittle research but no real reviews of it. I know its not a factory wilwood kit but it seems like a cheap alternative. Just trying to see what you guys think about it.




..I'm going to go get it welded but I was wondering for now would a hose clamp work?





